Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by evan55

  1. Looks good. Are those 15x8's? and what offet?
  2. Cut the pigtail end off. I used a zip disc on an angle grinder.
  3. 31x10.5R15 BFG KO2s on stock lego wheels
  4. Looking back now, I don't think the nuts I purchased are 10.9. The store didn't have any grade 8 or 10 nuts in this size. Is it really necessary to have a grade 8 or 10 nut ? Just wondering if I need to pull these nyloc ones off now..
  5. Thanks guys, I ended up bringing it into the store, it is M14x1.5 I went with just a nyloc nut instead of the lock washer and nut
  6. Does anyone know the size of these nuts by chance? If not I'll just bring 1 into the fastener store.
  7. I have a B&M 70264. It's pretty beefy. You will need to trim the grill a little bit to make it fit. I have the radiator bypassed.
  8. Yeah I know! it really kills the mood when out driving a trail and you have to get out every couple miles to check on the nuts. I used blue loctite before. I'm either going to try red loctite or just get new nuts.
  9. The blue arrow is pointing to the nuts which are loosening up. Nylock nuts sound like a good idea.
  10. I'm still finding the UCA spindle nuts are loosening up as I mentioned above with pics. I did blue loctite on the nuts and retorqued them to spec, and when driving down rough forest roads I had to tighten the nuts every couple miles because they were about to fall off! I think I'm just going to buy new nuts and lock washers and try that. Any idea what the nuts are, M14 x1.5? Same as the uca bolts? Thanks!
  11. Good info, I'll be replacing my CVs pretty soon. 1 boot has been torn for a few months now since winter.
  12. Yeah I think I'm going to drive it as-is for a while since it drives fine. Steering wheel has always had about 1/2" of play. I also need time to save up for the CL, TREs, and idler arm. In your experience, which steering parts are the first to go? Centerlink? And is it something that gets gradually worse overtime? I'm trying to plan what to look out for. I'd hate to be suddenly stranded.
  13. Swing out tire carrier can be found at the junkyard. Bring a sawzall to cut open the outside sheetmetal to pull the brackets off. There's a thread on this if you search Google. Check local classified for roof racks. I bought a used Yakima rack that fit onto my bare roof (no factory roof rails) you will need Yakima Q20 door clips. For the lift adjust your torsion bars in the front and buy Rough Country UCAs that are meant for the Hardbody. You have to call and ask for just the arms and not the whole kit, as the rear components for the Hardbody will not work on the Pathfinder. For the rear, Jeep grand cherokee springs and longer shocks. Do a search on Google, there's quite a few threads with good info
  14. I will definitely get an idler arm brace, either the 4x4 parts brace, or make my own. The grassroots centerlink looks pretty beefy. I don't plan on doing a lot of hard offroading. I'm mostly going to use the pathfinder for overlanding and light trails. Do you think a stock replacement centerlink would be fine for that?
  15. Thanks Adam, will try the loctite if they loosen up again.
  16. So after driving around for a couple days I re-torqued everything with the wheels on the ground. Today I did a check after a drive on a bumpy forest road and 1 spindle nut on the UCA was about to fall off and the others were a tiny bit loose. I re-torqued both spindle nuts on each side of the pathfinder to 65 ft/lbs. (FSM specs 52-76 ft/lbs.). I took it for another drive and the nuts seemed to have loosened up again. I figured after cycling the suspension and re-torquing these nuts a few times already they shouldn't be loose anymore. Do you guys have any suggestions? The only thing I can think of is backing the nuts off a bit and applying some blue loctite to the threads.
  17. Right, that makes sense they just adjusted the toe. The shop seemed a bit hesitant about touching the camber/caster as they didn't even know which shims to use. There is no pull to the left thankfully. It drives great so far, and feels good offroad too. I think I'll leave it as-is and maybe lower it a touch in the future once I need to do the center link, tie rods, and idler arm.
  18. So I guess the left side caster is out of spec, which would be the drivers side. Think that might be why there is little space between the bumpstop?
  19. Thanks again for the info. I got it aligned today at the shop. Everything is now within spec except for caster which is a bit out. The pathfinder drives pretty good overall. My only concern is the ride height is even on both sides but the driver side UCA is 1/16" from the bumpstop and the passenger side UCA is 1/2" from the bumpstop. Not sure what could be causing this difference from side to side.
  20. I lifted it up another .5", that seems to have helped out with the positive camber problem. It still has a bit of positive camber and both wheels are pretty toed-in. I'm thinking I will bring it in for an alignment in the next day or two once I get the low pro bumpstops installed - these are the ones i ordered for the uca - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ens-9-9102g
  21. Thanks I'll try lifting it some more. Also, when I installed the RC UCA's I left the alignment shims/washers on the uca bolts. They were about 2mm thick. Should I have removed these?
  22. Hey guys, I just finished installing a suspension lift on my pathfinder. Front is new Rough Country UCA's with Rancho RS5214 shocks. Rear is JGC V8 springs, which I just bought new (MOOG CC782) and Rancho RS5116 shocks. In the front I adjusted the torsion bars to give a 1.5" lift, and the rear springs gave me 2.5 inch of lift. I think I need to raise the front a bit more to match the rear, but the issue is the UCA's are 1/4" from touching the bumpstops. Maybe I need lower profile upper bumpstops? any ideas? Also the front has excessive positive camber, hopefully the alignment shop can get it back in spec.
  23. Hey guys, I've been on the forum for a while but haven't posted much. Here is my 1994 with 220,000 kms that I have been slowly fixing up. It is pretty much stock at the moment, other than the hardbody front end. Next up is a 3" lift. I'm thinking RC control arms, and JGC springs for the rear.

Welcome to NPORA Forums


Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.



  • Create New...