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WOW, it's been a hot minute since this has been a problem. Apparently I drag out fixing things... I bought a tap for this project since I have the HWOLE front end and transmission torn apart. I was able to chase the threads with no problem. Put in a new bolt and when I finally get it all back together, I'll get a proper alignment at a reputable shop VS the cut rate Navy Exchange.... One Star... would not recommend

I just stumbled across some info on the 190F thermostat. It does exist, but Nissan warns of cats and dogs living together if it's used in a VG. The problem with the 190F thermostat is that the VG does not run at the temperature of its thermostat. The VG's thermostat is located on the lower rad hose, the cold end of the system, so the engine actually runs 10-15C hotter than its thermostat. Nissan's target for max engine temp is 90C (194F). 76.5C (170F) plus 15C is right on target at 91C. 82C (180F) plus 15C is pushing it at 97C, but apparently Nissan was comfortable with this, because NTB94-020 recommends swapping in a 180F thermostat to help the heater keep up with winters on Hoth (like Adam did), and (as Adam noted) they later spec'd 180F thermostats for the VG33E. 88C (190F) plus 15C is 103C, and apparently that's out of Nissan's comfort zone, because they warn that it could cause overheating, detonation, engine damage, computer trouble, and a voided warranty. The 190 thermostat was used in earlier (pre-VG) Nissan engines. They had the same 90C/194F max temp target, but their thermostats were on the upper rad hose, so they didn't have that 10-15C offset to factor in. TL;DR: 170 is stock, 180 is OK, and 190 is not recommended.

Sorry to hear the computer is clueless as usual. Did you check after a failed start? I think it's supposed to hold onto codes for a certain number of starts, but I don't remember that for sure. An ignition issue on one cylinder shouldn't impact the other five. If you didn't pull the dizzy, and the tooth count between cams and cam/crank is correct (and it was when you started), then it shouldn't be timing. If you messed with the plug wires, confirm that they all went back where they're supposed to. I wouldn't expect the cap/rotor to suddenly and completely die, but given you had the cap off, I would pull it and just make sure it's not wet inside and the rotor is present (you didn't remove it to clean it and forget to put it back) and correct (mounting bolt hasn't fallen out or something). Other than that, we're back to checking for spark and fuel. If you're sure it's getting fuel past the injectors, pull a plug wire, crank it, confirm that you have spark. If you don't, check at the coil wire to see if the cap/rotor are the problem. If you have spark, but aren't sure fuel's getting past the injectors, spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid into the intake. If it runs when you spray fuel at it, then you know it's a fuel issue.