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You want to use all the VG30E fuel injection stuff. Mr.510 used to make an adapter for the crank so you could run your VG30 accessories on the VG33 but that will likely not work if you want to use the blower off of the ER. Unfortunately while many people have done it, this won't be a quick weekend project to drive back after the holidays, unless you're super mechanically inclined, then I might be mistaken. If you're having trouble finding an engine have you checked car-part.com? The VG30E was in the early 90s maxima, quest/villager van, and D21 pickup as well.

I had a similar issue with mine for a while. I replaced a bunch of stuff (starter, battery, positive cable, inhibitor relay, ignition switch) with little effect. Turned out it was the stupid alarm system. The weird part was, I had already removed the alarm brain and joined the starter wires together at the end of it, so it was the harness itself that was causing problems. I don't know if there was a loose connection somewhere, or if my splice had somehow failed, or if the extra six or seven feet of wire was just dropping more voltage than the circuit could afford to lose. What I do know is that it has not acted up since I got that trash out of there, and unlike the rest of the stuff I'd tried, it didn't cost me anything. The alarm system was installed as an afterthought, so for the most part it connects between existing plugs in the truck's harness. Removing all of it requires removing the driver's seat, kick panel, and carpet edge trim, and the steering column clamshell. The alarm is the square box with the hole in the top, not the rounded one (that's your ABS computer). Follow the harness, undo the plugs, get the alarm harness out of the way, plug the truck's wiring back into itself like it was meant to be without the add-on crap in between. There are a few wires scotchlock'd in, and a couple wires going through the firewall to the hood switch and the alarm siren. Those are bundled with the fog light harness, so make sure you know which wires are which before cutting stuff. The alarm wires have labels printed on them, and AFAIK nothing else in the truck does, so if in doubt, look for that. If you can't be arsed to tear it all apart, take just the clamshell apart (very carefully, the screw posts inside are brittle) and follow the wires from the ignition switch to its plug, and then to the plug just after that one. Undo both plugs, push the alarm harness out of the way, and plug the ignition switch into the main harness like it was supposed to be. The door lock wiring will still run through the alarm brain, but AFAIK it should still work fine. If it still has problems, I would check the ignition switch, clutch switch, inhibitor, battery terminals, all that kind of stuff. If you need help troubleshooting the circuit, there's a diagram on EL-12 of the '95 manual, available free from Nicoclub. Auto and manual are different, but on the same page, so make sure you're looking at the right diagram. Also looks like they drew the battery backwards, so that's fun. Mr. Reverse did a writeup about hooking up a starter relay, so the starter solenoid gets full power even if the signal from the key switch is weak. (The wiring for manual trucks is like this from the factory--IIRC this was just a workaround for the jank way the inhibitor works on the auto trans trucks). I did a similar bodge on a friend's Toyota, and it worked great, until the key switch finished dying and stranded her at the grocery store, and I had to talk her through hotwiring it with a paper clip. We replaced the switch with a pushbutton, which also worked great, until she started it in gear one day and hit the garage wall. So that's something else to keep in mind--there's nothing to stop you from starting it in gear if you bypass the inhibitor by wiring straight to the solenoid. My parts car had a wire from the starter solenoid tied up near the battery (just touch it to the + terminal to crank), which would've made it real easy to run yourself over. Worked, though.

You could probably get a set of the stock roof rails from a wrecker. They're just riv-nutted to the roof. The screws are JIS, like Phillips, except you'll likely round them with a Phillips bit. You may well round them with a JIS driver too--they're quite small, and I think there's some kind of thread sealant on them. I don't think I've seen the clamp-ons used on one of these. I guess if it works?