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Like Hawairish, I'm also using the PAC converter and it has been good for several years. I also have the PAC steering wheel remote module. That one is decent. It works perfectly when first programmed and the vehicle is off, but some buttons on the steering wheel stop working once the vehicle is turned on. I have no idea what it is, so I just live with intermittent functionality.

The tapers for the tie rod ends and pitman arm changed 8/92 for some reason. I found out the fun way, with an early '92 knuckle half installed on my '93 and a tie rod that just would not go in. I haven't tried the kits. I bought the various front end joints for mine off Rockauto, mostly 555 if I remember right (I think some of it was sold as Beck/Arnley, but the actual parts were 555). Ball joints, tie rods, centerlink, idler. Turned out most of the slop that I was chasing was in the steering box. I tried to adjust it, screwed it up, replaced with a reman that turned out to be even sloppier (and the pitman shaft seal leaks just enough to piss me off). If you've chasing play or you've got a clunk in the steering, have someone saw the wheel back and forth while you crawl under the front and see what's got play in it. Sway bar links/bushings can also clunk pretty bad. Put a dab of grease on the steering stops while you're under there. Those make haunted house noises at full lock if they're dry. I think they were supposed to have plastic caps on them at one point. +1 for doing the strut rod bushings, though. Mine looked fine until I took them apart. I welded bearing cups to the frame on mine in place of the sheet metal bushing cups that were broken off.

Stumbled across this video today that has some visual information about the assembly and some support to what I've written. No real technical info, though. He took the approach of grinding down a piece to create a shim and adding it to a full clutch pack prior to this rebuild. Earlier in the video (and a prior video) he reported it being too tight and spool-like for his application (a 2WD VG30 turbo'd Hardbody/Navara...3rd gear burnouts at 17:15, nice...albeit slick road and bald tires...still nice). He ends up removing the shims and using spring discs and spring plates from an older LSD since he had them, and it took out the axle jitters he previously had. I have a 98 Frontier KC 2wd that I will be putting an H233B axle on and...of course...putting an LSD into it (and rear disc brakes, because I can). I'll pretty much be doing the opposite of everything prescribed here as far as repacking goes, instead shooting for some sub-100 ft-lb target using leftover pieces and weaker configuration. With the truck being relatively light and not very powerful, it doesn't need much to be effective. Arguably, it the truck probably doesn't even need to have an LSD (let alone H233B), but what fun would that be?