Leaderboard

Here's a quick how-to for replacing the CV axle: TOOLS NEEDED: 1. Jack 2. Jack stand(s) 3. Lug wrench 4. Snap-ring pliers (about $10) 5. 3/8" ratchet/driver 6. 12mm socket or ratcheting box wrench 7. 17mm deep socket 8. Screwdriver or putty knife 9. Vise-grips or large pliers 10. Hammer REMOVAL 1. Jack up truck and place on jackstands under the chassis (not the A-arms). 2. Remove tire 3. Remove hub cap on drive flange. Use a flat screwdriver or putty knife to pry it off as you rotate the hub cap with vise-grips. 4. Using snap-ring pliers, remove the snap ring on the CV axle splines (behind the hub cap you just removed). 5. Using a 12mm ratcheting wrench or socket/driver, remove all 6 bolts holding the inner CV axle to the differential flange. To access each pair of bolts, rotate the brake rotor and then to keep it from rotating while loosening the bolts, stick a screwdriver through the brake caliper and the brake rotor vents. 6. Remove 3 17mm nuts from the ball joint and pry/wiggle the ball joint studs out of the A-arm, then swing the A-arm downward 7. Tap the outer end of the CV axle with a hammer to dislodge it from the drive flange and slide it towards the center of the vehicle through the opening created by swinging the A-arm downwards. 8. If the thrust washer is still attached to the outer shaft of the original CV axle, remove it and install it in the same orientation on the new CV axle. INSTALLATION 1. Slide the CV axle back into the hub through the opening created by the swung-down lower A-arm. 2. Hand-thread the 6 12mm bolts holding the inner CV axle flange to the differential flange. 3. Reinstall ball joint and tighten the 3 17mm nuts 4. Tighten 6 12mm bolts holding CV axle to differential flange, first, one per each pair of three, then tighten the second one of each pair. Don't forget to insert that screwdriver through the rotor vents to keep it from spinning. 5. Reinstall snap ring. You may need to pull axle fully through the hub to fully access to the snap ring channel. 6. Reinstall hub cap. 7. Reinstall tire 8. Remove vehicle from jackstands DONE! NOTE: Alternatively, in lieu of removing the ball joint to provide clearance to pull out the CV axle, you may opt to remove the large bolts holding the A-arm to the subframe. There's one long bolt and nut at the front and two bolts at the rear of the A-arm. I think they're 7/8 or 21mm. I forget. This can be more inconvenient because you'll need to remove the splash guard to do this, and those bigger fasteners might need a 1/2" drive or air wrench to remove. The benefit is that that you don't have to fight the torsional resistance of the A-arm bushings or wrangle the ball joint studs through the A-arm, which can be challenging due to the weight/angle of the strut/knuckle assembly.

Aspects of a subframe drop include: -The subframe drop is 4 blocks. You can design it several ways, but honestly its simple. You are just making a rectangular spacer between the bolts and pushing the whole subframe down. Mine are 4" height. -The engine requires 2 blocks the same height as the subframe drop blocks. These are also very simple design. Again just a spacer between bolts, rectangular with no angle. -You also need to lift at the front suspension. However there are no longer struts available, so anything longer than AC coils will lead to severe topping out. So you will need spacers here too. These are NOT straight to keep the geometry right. If you are designing your own lift then you'll need some trial and error to make the angle right. My spacers are 2.5" and the rest of the lift comes from the AC coils. Most people have used 4" spacers plus AC or OME coils to achieve 5-6" total lift. -You need to extend the steering shaft. I think most of us are using a honda U-joint with a spined shaft that matches the R50 shaft for the extension. I do not know if a straight extension would work, but I can confirm that this method does. -The rear lift is much simpler than the front. You can use straight cylindrical blocks, longer coils, or both in combination to achieve the desired lift. I have 3" blocks and AC coils. There may be coils from another vehicle that fit, or you can order custom coils. -You will want longer travel shocks in the rear -You will need new bump stops in the rear and possibly limiting straps -The stock panhard rod will be out of stock specs and force your rear axle towards the driver's side. The setup will work like this, but ideally you should make a drop bracket or a longer rod. Adjustable upper and lower control arms can be considered as well. -You'll need longer brake lines front and rear -You'll want to extend both differential breather tubes -Your rear swaybar will be out of whack. I modified a stillen swaybar with longer links that can be disconnected with a single bolt. The front will still work if you want to keep it. -The front skidplate will no longer work, you'll want a new one. -Ideally you should add lateral bracing of the blocks up front. The SFD is kind of like putting your vehicle on stilts, and actions like laterally winching could twist your subframe. A solid skidplate will help. -You'll need to adjust the routing of your front ABS line to prevent stretch -If you are going with larger than 33" tires you will need to do a lot of trimming even after this lift. Of course you'll want to re-gear as well, especially if you have 4.3's. The front blocks: The rear blocks: The engine spacer: The steering extension: The skid and driver's side front block: Installed: I owe Tyler Morgan thanks for doing all the research and providing me with a Prado prototype. You will run into hiccups with any custom project like this. Installation is a lot more involved than doing a regular suspension swap and you will need multiple jacks and stands. Air tools and an engine hoist would make it easier. However, I had very little experience and did the installation alone with only hand tools.