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I have Bilstein 5160 shocks in the rear. I tend to keep a pretty good clip on washboard and rough terrain and these perform very well. My rear end doesn't float like it used to with the 5100 series and the road characteristics are sporty and responsive. If you already have the KYB shocks I'd run with those and if you find that you need or want more performance then change at a later point in time. I don't recall what the OEM spec compressed and extended lengths are but I'm sure you can find them posted.

I used an OEM top hat, not the pictured aftermarket one. I don’t think the aftermarket spacer needs to be welded - you just need to be sure to use it.

OME HD springs gave me slightly more than 1.625" of lift and haven't sagged at all in almost ?6? years. Even before I ran a steel bumper I had no top out issues paired with a KYB strut. Never quite figured out why they list the springs at a little over half inch because that's never been the case for me. I suspect the Ironman springs will be similar but I cant say for sure since I've never been in a vehicle with them or know anyone personally. There are a few accounts of them on social media from folks who have done front and back and claim they work well with no issues. I'm definitely interested as they're local now and really good with customer service. I have their awning and have been looking at the water storage they have as well. Lots of reasonably priced items that give other brands like ARB a run for their money. Only downside is the obnoxious logo on our awning. Some may not like the bright green springs either but for the price and availability its not a bad option As for camber bolts- its not a bad idea to have some to bring it back into spec as you'll definitely see some positive camber but I cant recall if 1.5" of lift is enough to throw it out of whack. Definitely get an alignment after lifting.

Right under the Nissan emblem Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Any 4x4 forum would agree that unless it’s a full bumper replacement (in our case think ARB, coastal off-road, Hawairish, etc), any such bull bar, push bar, brush bar idea will be a damage multiplier. I dropped some good links when we were discussing it with @ThatBluePathy

In that case youd need a 45 degree coupler to replace the upper portion as well. A quick search on siliconeintakes.com showed you can get a 45 degree coupler, 1 foot of aluminum pipe, and a straight coupler for the MAF end all for about $33. You need 2.5 inch diameter for all of it. There is an egr fitting in the upper end by the throttle body so youd need to make a small hole in the 45 elbow to accommodate that fitting. You can get fittings like that at any auto parts store if you look in the custom air intake section. Overall youd have a solid repair for under $50. Thats my suggestion anyway if youre looking for the best repair for the least expense.