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Everything posted by AR97Pathfinder

  1. Yes one is the entire rear resonator and the other is for the center muffler up to the cat. That makes up the entire exhaust system after the cats which is what you mentioned you were looking for. The diagram does show individual parts but the link themselves carry the part for what you are looking for. Cycle through the pictures on the link.
  2. There should be options for the rear resonator and then the front pipes and center muffler as a single piece. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=268863&cc=1212051&pt=10038&jsn=704 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2461638&cc=1212051&pt=5872&jsn=664 There are a few more options of varying prices than what I posted above . When I swapped my exhaust I purchased from Rockauto, but at that time they also had the Bosal brand available. Good quality, its been about 4 years so far and no issues or a spec of rust. And I live in NY. As for the manifold, I'm not too sure.
  3. Hello everyone, I am planning on installing some rock lights to the frame of the vehicle and I wanted to know if its safe to drill into the frame to run some very small self tap screws through to secure the light. I saw online when mounting rock road sliders to the vehicle much larger holes are drilled than just a screw so I wouldn't imagine there being an issue with this. But I would like some more input as I don't want to compromise anything structurally for some lights. I added a video of where I plan to mount them. It would be on the wall of that frame and close to the bottom of it so when the lights come on they catch the running boards as well. I'm tapping the dome light so it comes on when I open the door. Its more of a courtesy lighting setup I am going for than rock lights for off-road use. https://imgur.com/a/VR7MllP Thanks
  4. Was it the 36R0788 like you have listed above? Where did you get it? Yeah that’s the one I installed. Everything has been great so far. And I ordered from summit racing and it took about a month to get to me as they ordered from the manufacture. Didn’t have in stock. Rockauto has it as well. It says 2 day delay but I’m not sure if it would be longer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. It wasn’t bad honestly. I tied down the steering wheel first with it centered. I removed the splash guard underneath and then the sway bar brackets, allowing it to drop down. Then I loosened the banjo bolts on the two lines and all the fluid will leak out now so have a pan. There is a single bolt on steering shaft that has to be removed. Then I unbolted the rack and pulled it down and out. Make sure you check back if the new rack is centered. I got a ACDelco and they had said in the instructions it’s centered at factory but it wasn’t. You can use a vise grip pliers and a cloth on the shaft and turn the shaft from lock to lock to count the total turns. And then turn back until it’s half that amount and you’re centered. Installing is simply the reverse and then fill it up with fluid once everything is bolted up. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock several times with engine off and wheels still up in air. Then turn the engine on and turn lock to lock again several times. All the air should be out the system now. Make sure to use new copper washers on the banjo connections. And when installing tie rod ends count the threads on the old rack and set the new one to the same so you’re alignment is close enough until you align at the shop. Took me about 3 hours. I definitely wouldn’t pay that much to do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Yes I do post it on other forums as well as I like to see the experiences others have as well with any part or job. Some individuals have different views or run into different issues. As with the bearings I have gotten different answers. One moderator member would say Timken is used out of the factory by Nissan, another runs into issues when trying to install them. So I’m just trying to make the best decision possible and know everything before hand, to get the job done once. I have done the research, trust me and they are quality bearings. But I’d like to know when it comes to installing them on a Pathfinder. Thanks for the feedback. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Are timken wheel bearings good? Timken SET37 (inner bearing and race) Timken LM300849 (outer bearing) Timken LM300811 (outer race) Ive heard they may be fitment issues with them? Has anyone used them? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I bought it through Walmart. Had a set of Michelins from there that lasted about 7 years. but they don’t make them anymore for my rim size. (265 70 R15). So I got Bridgestone. And jeez that’s a long time ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I did make a complaint an hour ago and got a $250 discount. So I think it works out fine in the end. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I bought some new tires for the Pathy and they’re manufactured on the 34th week of 2019. Is that too far back for new tires? They were bought online and shipped to me today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. This weekend I installed a new rack and pinion. I also installed new coil springs on the front and rear. Along with new kyb shocks on the rear and strut on the front. I also got new kyb strut mounts, bellow, bump stop, and bearing. My strut didn’t need the spacer supplied. Everything went good with the installation. Except on the left wheel it looks like the bearing might be binding a little. You can feel and hear a slight thudding when trying to turn the wheel. And when I have someone do it and look at the strut I can see the wheel and strut assembly turning a bit before the top hat starts to turn. The bearing was a bit tight before I installed it and I did question it in my mind but thought because it was new. Will this break in over time or should I take it out? I did a string alignment after for now as I will be doing a machine alignment when my new tires are installed in the coming weeks. It came out pretty great to be honest. Drives straight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Got the new set of coils today. You were right, looks like someone did a little funny business with the last set that came. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Just over 181k but I live in NYC (Queens) and as you know city driving sucks the life out your vehicles. But it’s in amazing shape despite. I do get some stretches of highway driving in every week though. And used to do some Florida and Canada trips before with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Yeah I tried it a few months ago and didn’t work. So I pulled upper and lower intakes and changed knock sensor, injectors, fuel rail to intake seals, IACV, and intake seals. So far so good. Hopefully don’t see the warm restart stumble after 20 min come back. One thing I forgot to do which I will do this weekend is clean all the ground connections in the engine bay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Yeah I remember from a while back when I had previously opened them up. That’s why I was stumped as soon as I saw these new ones. I knew something was off. I ordered a new set and sending these back and also a set of Moog for the heck of it to cross check. Whatever set I don’t use is going back. If they’re all screwed up I’ll just wait for the OMEs. But my springs are in need of changing currently so that’s why I went with one of these brands for now. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. And I think you are right hawairish. According to ACDelco the spring wire diameter is supposed to be 0.6in thick and the one I got is 0.75in. The inner diameter is supposed to be 5.9in. This one is less than 5in. The free length is supposed to be 14.8”. This one is barely 14in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. So according to the company’s (ACDelco) tech they said it’s not a true pigtail and it will definitely work. Only way to know is when I take it apart or I order a next set and see when it comes. The coils also look thicker. You’re defiantly right about those possibilities. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Yeah, I don’t know how various places are selling them for this vehicle. Even the Moog for this vehicle has a pigtail end. And people claimed to have installed it. Even a reviewer on Amazon said they installed it on a 98 Pathfinder. I don’t see how it would fit the top seat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. No wasn’t tampered and was the correct part number. I even called the company and provided the vin this morning and they said that’s the right one. But I will get a better pic up later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I’m assuming that means it’s unlikely to work? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. I’m assuming that means it’s unlikely to work? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Since the OME coils are back ordered and the Ironman have some uncertainty I decided to get som ACDelco professional coils for the front. I was really looking for a lift anyways but can always use a spacer if I want a little lift. Anyways I got the ACDelco 45H0454 coils which are for the 4wd model R50s from Rockauto. However I received it yesterday and I noticed one end is tangential and the other pigtail. When I dissembled my strut before I don’t remember any side of the Nissan coil having a pigtail end. After further checking other brands such as Moog, I see that they are also pigtail at one end for the Pathfinders. I doubled checked using the VIN on both the Moog and ACDelco websites and it says it’s for the 96-2004 pathfinders. How would this fit into the KYB struts with the Nissan upper coil seats? Would the pigtail go to the top or the bottom? Or would this even work? I would think they must have to work if all these brands are selling them and some reviews from Amazon and such say they work. But I’m just not seeing how. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Got everything back together. Running perfect! No issues whatsoever.
  24. Yeah, I’ll see how it goes tomorrow when I finish up and get it started. Will check for any coolant leaks. I should be fine with that one bolt once it caught a lot of threads lower right?

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