AR97Pathfinder

Okay, I’ll try out those sway bushings first. Would I be able to change without removing end links? If not, I’ll go back through and retorque everything. But everything looked fine today when I tried tightening things. I did not check the strut center nut. Will do also. I did not retorque after installation. I torqued it when I put the strut together off vehicle. And wouldn’t the bearing make noise when turning? No noise per se when turning. I could get the clunk going straight over bumps without turning wheel.

Glad you found the issue for the clunking noise. I tried that also for the same noise you were getting and I was able to tighten some more but it didn’t help the issue. Not sure where the noise is coming from. I have new control arms, ball joints, sway links, tie rods, tie rod ends, new strut. Only items not changed during my suspension replacements were the spring, strut mount, sway bar bushings. I get the clunking over bumps sometimes. I could go over rough road and big bumps at times and not get anything. But then some subtle bumps or turning in driveways would make the noise. Something just doesn’t feel solid on that one side. Any ideas?

I changed out spark plugs today and used back original Nissan plugs. All gapped correctly. however, they did smell slightly like gas. Hard to tell for sure on 1-4 as they were dry. But plug 5 and 6 smelled the most than any other. And were a bit wet at the ends. I started it up for 2 minutes and shut off, leaving it for 30 minutes before changing plugs to see if I would find this. Correct me if I’m wrong but it seems injectors are leaking. Are injectors 5 and 6 located under the plenum or outside?

I took 1,2,3 out they were just about as dirty if not a little more

I pulled some plugs and they're very dark brown and appeared fouled along with the gap by eyeball appears to be larger than it should. Any thoughts on that in relation to my issue? I'd like to post a pic of it but im not sure, it says my file size is too large.

I totally agree, given there is no problem with the frame or anything major under the hood. Especially if you didnt have problems with the vehicle prior. I mean these trucks are great, I have a 97 and they just keep going and I'd hate to get rid of it. Most of those body parts can be purchased aftermarket and relatively cheap such as the bumper cover and the metal bumper above that. Lights are easy to find at the junkyards as well as the fender and hood. I have seen that hood around a 100 aftermarket and fender cheaper. From that pic though it looks like the radiator is gone also. I'm pretty certain, not sure what your budget is, but if you can do majority of the repairs it could be about a 1000 or even less. At the end of the day at least you weren't hurt. If you dont mind me asking, how'd it happen? did you get rid of it yet?

Sorry, but where are the bushings located on the rear diff? Im not sure Ive looked at that yet and how would you change those out?

I guess I spoke too soon. The issue came back today again. Went for a 15 min drive to the store and came back to the vehicle after 25 minutes. Started it and it stumbled for a few seconds. Did not get the fast idle on restarts that you would usually get. But interestingly right after, heavy gas vapors were coming out from the evap canister vent tube. I had this issue a month ago and changed the vacuum cut valve and the bypass valve by the canister and it didnt happen since. Only until today after the stumbling on startup occurred. Is this issue related? Is it the canister and the valve on it that need replacement? Could it be the purge valve under the hood? I have no code for that though. It was also warm here today in NYC about 75 degrees but before was cool for the past two weeks. Not sure if the weather is also making the issue more prevalent. thanks. Really need the help here

They shouldn’t be difficult. Just have a breaker bar in case of stubborn bolts. Mine weren’t hard to come off however. Had a breaker bar, a ratchet, I believe it’s a 21 or 22 bolt. But don’t quote me exactly on that. And a long screwdriver to pry very easily against the rack to fit in new bushings in. It was about a 30 min job honestly. Basically there’s a bracket that sits over each bushing with two bolts each. The driver side bushing has a different shape and holds the most pressure. The passenger side is round. The bushings have a cut in them and you just fit it over and put clamp back ontop then bolt down.

I have a similar issue also. I had replaced my front control arms, ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, sway links, and new kyb struts but used back the old springs as they are relatively in great condition. No sagging or bouncing so didnt change them. But very occasionally on the driver side you get a clunk and in similar motion to what you describe. Also when going around a turn and there's a rocking motion you hear a metallic noise whenever the from shifts. I haven't changed the sway bar bushings in several years so I dont know if its that. One way to tell if you have bad steering rack mount bushings is if you make a turn in one direction and when the steering comes back straight the vehicle doesn't drive straight, but if you turn in the opposite direction and straighten the wheel back the vehicle runs straight. For example when my rack bushings went a few months back and they practically fell apart into the skid guard, when I would make a left turn and then straighten the wheel to continue driving, in order for the vehicle to drive straight the wheel would be cocked to the right by a noticeable amount. But then if I make a right turn and then straighten up the vehicle would drive normal or be cocked in the other direction. But the most definite way to check is just have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth while you look at the rack from underneath. You will definitely see it moving from side to side if they're bad. And the damaged bushings themselves would be very easy for you to catch just by observation. Odds are if you never changed them its most likely time to.

So I used the CRC Intake cleaner instead. Ran about 3/4 of the can through the brake booster and left it for an hour (enough time to change out my front wiper linkages). Did some highway driving (50miles) and then changed the oil. Looks like it cleaned something because the oil was dark and only 1700 miles in. Not too much smoke really, did get a code initially for random misfire but I cleared it out before restarting. No issues driving afterward. I’ll have to say it fires right up now on startups, warm or cold, with no issues so far. It’s only been about 4 days but have been driving everyday. And idling at stop lights are very smooth. Not that it was terrible before but it is definitely smoother. Only time will tell if this solved the problem at startup and how long it works for. I’ll probably give it another dose before next oil change. Going onto my next project now. Changing out the accelerator cable. Shouldn’t be bad at all.

Doesn’t sound too bad. Did you get any misfires or roughness long after restarting the engine? I’m only going to do the intake method then change oil after giving it a drive. I heard about another one called CRC intake cleaner, many use it for GDI engines but it is also for PFI engines. Same method like sea foam, but you leave it to heat soak for an hour then drive.

Is using the sea foam spray through the intake as well as some through the line that feeds the IACV a safe and good method to clean them out? Is it okay for a vehicle with this age and 180,000 miles? I’ve seen people do it on the pathys and qx4s. If so do you feed through the brake booster line as well or through the throttle body boot. I know you get a lot of smoke afterwards. And should you perform an oil change right after?

I forgot to ask, is using the sea foam spray through the intake a good idea as well as some through the line that feed the IACV? Is it okay for a vehicle with this age and 180,000 miles? I’ve seen people do it on the pathys and qx4s. If so do you feed through the brake booster line as well or through the throttle body boot. And should you perform an oil change right after?

Thanks! I’ll try it out and see if there’s any improvement.

Isn’t a high idle really the worst problem those thermo wax elements can cause? I do get the fast idle when cold that kicks down. Doesn’t end up going all the way down due to the wax element not expanding all the way. But it goes down to around 800 or 850 rpms. Gonna try spraying some carb cleaner into the IACV before replacing that for my issue.

Didn’t think of that, I definitely try that out next time it happens. Yes it does have a wax element for the cold idle. And as a matter of fact when checking it the roller doesn’t go back to the first mark when vehicle warms up. Maybe something to check out. It’s between the first and second mark. I will also pull the line on IACV and spray some card cleaner. Did you spray it in and connect back line then start engine right away? Or did you wait a bit before restarting? Thanks

Not sure if it could be the IACV causing these issues. I have no code for that though. From the fuel pressure test with the results in the post before it seems as if it’s holding pressure properly. Are these signs of dirty injectors? Right now I am between injectors and IACV.

On my 97 Pathfinder, I get a clunking noise when pulling off from a stop. If I pull off very gently I do not hear it. Its a bit louder when you pull off on a rougher road. I changed all rear links and all arms, along with panhard rod. The differential fluid was also changed. I went under and checked the driveshaft, there is no play in the differential or the u joint by the differential. However, I see some play where it goes into the transmission, which I believe is the yoke. Would I be able to remove the driveshaft and grease the yoke splines inside? Ive heard about this on other vehicles. There isn't a yoke replacement for the 97 pathfinder. You'll have to change the entire driveshaft for that.

I replaced my exhaust system after the pipes coming from the cat. I purchased the bosal exhaust system and installed it myself with no problems. Also changed all the hangers. However, since then I get a very noticeable vibration at 1000rpms only. The steering wheel and everything shakes and its only that specific rpm around 1000 plus or minus 50. I double checked everything and there is no leaks or loose connections. Not sure what it could be.

So I performed the fuel pressure test. With engine idling it was around 34 PSI. When engine off but turning on ignition it was around 42 PSI. After turning key to off position it dropped to 39 PSI. After 10 minutes the pressure dropped to 36 PSI. After 15 minutes 33 PSI. After 20 minutes it was around 30 PSI. And when connected with engine on and raising rpms, the pressure does increase. It looks like a gradual drop in pressure, but isn't that normal? I pulled the vac line from the regulator, but from the intake end not the regulator end. Didn't see any signs of gasoline in the hose.

I’ll try and reach it by feel and unplug the vac line to it in order to check for fuel leaking from the regulator into the intake. If that is bad and I reach by feel maybe I’ll be able to change out without plenum removal? I know it’s held by two screws. If it’s not bad I’ll have to check plugs like you said on next startup struggle. I can also check fuel pressure with gauge at the fuel rail correct? Correct me if I’m wrong but you remove the fuel pump fuse and wait for engine to die to relieve pressure. Then tee in the gauge at the fuel rail inlet line. Plug fuse back in. Then turn ignition on and wait several seconds and turn off to see if pressure on gauge drops?

I actually have bad sway bar links I believe. I feel the front lean when going around turns. And you would also get a metallic noise if you go around a turn and the front rocks from a bump or uneven road. I would assume you would experience a greater amount of body roll without the sway. They help stabilize the front end and connect the two wheels. I changed out the struts (kyb), control arm, ball joints, tie rods inner and outer, new bushings on rack. But didn’t do the links which was dumb. So I believe that symptom is coming from that.

Yeah I’m changing out those two parts at the back with new ones. Didn’t see anything else wrong either and had done a smoke test a month prior to find a leaking line. System was holding pressure because you can hear when removing gas cap. Until out of nowhere it started leaking from there one evening. I’m hesitant to think it could be charcoal canister because I replaced it a few years back already with oem one.

Is there a way to pull the vac hose on this or even change it without removing the intake plenum?