AR97Pathfinder

I’ll try and reach it by feel and unplug the vac line to it in order to check for fuel leaking from the regulator into the intake. If that is bad and I reach by feel maybe I’ll be able to change out without plenum removal? I know it’s held by two screws. If it’s not bad I’ll have to check plugs like you said on next startup struggle. I can also check fuel pressure with gauge at the fuel rail correct? Correct me if I’m wrong but you remove the fuel pump fuse and wait for engine to die to relieve pressure. Then tee in the gauge at the fuel rail inlet line. Plug fuse back in. Then turn ignition on and wait several seconds and turn off to see if pressure on gauge drops?

I actually have bad sway bar links I believe. I feel the front lean when going around turns. And you would also get a metallic noise if you go around a turn and the front rocks from a bump or uneven road. I would assume you would experience a greater amount of body roll without the sway. They help stabilize the front end and connect the two wheels. I changed out the struts (kyb), control arm, ball joints, tie rods inner and outer, new bushings on rack. But didn’t do the links which was dumb. So I believe that symptom is coming from that.

Yeah I’m changing out those two parts at the back with new ones. Didn’t see anything else wrong either and had done a smoke test a month prior to find a leaking line. System was holding pressure because you can hear when removing gas cap. Until out of nowhere it started leaking from there one evening. I’m hesitant to think it could be charcoal canister because I replaced it a few years back already with oem one.

Is there a way to pull the vac hose on this or even change it without removing the intake plenum?

On my 97 Pathfinder I'm having an issue where after the vehicle is restarted after a short period of time (20 minutes) or a couple hours it would crank and start but the engine would choke or "bog" down for a couple of seconds and then the rpms would rise back up and level out to normal. If I were to shut it off after this occurs and start back, it fires up like normal. Cold starts are perfect and engine fires up without any hesitation after. I don't have any drivability issues, but recently you can feel a very slight roughness when sitting at a stoplight. I am not sure if the roughness is related to the recent EVAP P1441 code that came on after I started getting gas vapors escaping from the canister vent tube. But the issue after warm starting has been occurring before this EVAP issue. MAF, plugs, leads, distributor, ECT sensor, air filter, intake air temp sensor, tps sensor have all been replace with original Nissan parts. Fuel filter has been changed within the last two years. I am leaning in the direction of fuel injectors or the fuel pressure regulator. Going to do a fuel pressure test this week. Any ideas of what it could be?

Can the vacuum cut valve and bypass valve cause this issue? I had a smoke test done on the vehicle last month and changed a line that had caused a P1441 code to come on a time before. No leaks in any other hose or line. Now since last week when the gasoline vapors began coming out the vent hose the code came on again. P1441 The gas vapors doesn't always come out the vent hose and when it does sometimes more than other times.

I ran the vehicle for 15 minutes this morning and the gasoline vapors along with the gas drops didn’t occur. I never over fill the tank and the tank is around half right now when this issue started last night.

Need some help here, on my 97 Pathfinder I was smelling some gas in the cabin while driving this evening. It was smelling very high from the trunk area at back. And I mean very high smell as if you were filling gas at the station. Checked underneath and didn’t see any gas leaking from lines. However, I decided to check by evap canister and some gas and a lot of vapor was coming out from a tube like vent right after the canister. This is while engine was running.

So nothing is wrong with the maf sensor and O2 sensor (P0135) has been replaced. Should I get a professional fuel injection cleaning? Or could there be fault with the IACV?

Is it possible the MAF sensor is going out after two years? I bought a Hitachi brand from advance auto.

The engine runs absolutely flawlessly when driving. Its literally on a startup sometimes only.

Thats been changed with a Hitachi a year ago. Had a code and engine used to stall at idle and whenever you touched the harness plug.

Yeah I'm gonna get that fixed asap. Fuel trims cold and hot and pretty good and in range, so not sure about fuel issues. Fuel filter also has been change, maybe not even two years yet. I used NGK platinum plugs when I changed about 15k ago. In the meantime I'm changing the ECT sensor and the engine air temp sensor.

So, the issue with the rough, slow startup happened twice yesterday with the engine failing to start once. Check light came on. I got the code P0135 O2 Heater Circut Bank 1, Sensor 1.

So the ignition switch may have solved the shutdown while driving, but the rough startup I'm still getting. It feels like the engine struggles slightly upon starting. I just warmed it up this evening to check the oil level. Then started it back up 2 hours later to run to the store and it happened again.

Turns out I had an ignition switch and key assembly in my garage from some steering wheel parts a friend gave me several years ago after he didn’t need. I swapped out the ignition switch. The old one look fine from appearance but who knows what’s wrong inside. Everything so far (crossing fingers) seems to be fine when using the remote start. I took several drives after changing it yesterday and no shut down yet. I’ll have to wait and see. Almost everyone I ask including remote start installers, the viper company, and mechanics say it is impossible for the viper system to override the key while driving and shut it down. Thanks for the help! Hope it solves my issue.

I going to change out the switch portion and see. Not the tumbler for key. I started up this afternoon and it stalled right away. I restarted again and hesitated for a second. After that it’s been starting good.

Should I purchase one directly from Nissan? Or are the ones from Rockauto okay such as the Standard Motor Products? I see it says must use scan tool to install due to anti-theft security. And the new keys probably won’t work on door right?

No luck locating the issue, engine continued to run despite shaking the harness and wires in the column.

So I took off the steering column cover and shook all wires and the harness for the ignition switch after using the key takeover mode. And the engine did not cut off. I have no clue

I had that same idea, but the only thing that kept me back from replacing the ignition switch is that I tried jiggling and shaking the key while in the cylinder and the vehicle didn’t cut off.

Yeah, basically whenever you remote start it you unlock doors (I use the viper remote, it’s programmed to control the factory alarm) and stick the key in ignition and turn to the on position but don’t crank and then you press brakes and vehicle takes over from the remote start system. And that’s when the problem occasionally happens...

I guess I can try it out to see. So I’d have to have both key? tape one to steering column and the other one to drive? And then use the remote start system like normal? sorry if I’m not getting this properly.

And the shutdown that occurs with the key takeover feature being used is very sporadic and random. Sometimes occurs a minute after driving sometimes 20 minutes. Sometimes doesn’t happen for a week or two. But never happens when starting with physical key.

Well the only problem I would have trying that is that the remotes don’t work. Several years ago there was some issue and I believe the smart entry system was disconnected. I even bought a new Nissan key and tried reprogramming it on my own and doesn’t work. So I locked doors with the main button and opened with key. The factory alarm was still active. I don’t know if bringing the original key would work.