AR97Pathfinder

Yeah gonna post one tomorrow. It was surprisingly easy and quick to cut through. The metal was probably as thick as a dime or about a penny I think. I was surprised. Fishing that wire through the trunk frame and into the body frame to the reverse light ended up being the hardest part of the job for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I installed my cam today. Placed it right above the rear license plate by drilling through the tailgate. View and quality is pretty great. I’ll upload a pic tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No problem, thanks again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gotcha, thanks for the heads up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Forgot to upload this pic also of oem fog. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m looking to replace the fog lights on the Pathfinder with some led lights. The one I’m looking at is rated at 120w and 12v/24v compatible. What I am looking to do is remove the old lights and cut off the harness, wiring it to the new headlights for a plug in connection. That way it can be operated from the original fog switch. And this light would fit in the original space on the bumper. Not cutting required. Is this a good way to go and is the power specs right for the method I’m looking to install? I know some lights need a relay or something? Don’t want to fry any wiring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks hawairish! Yeah I did check after my last post, that bumper spot not plausible. I’ll have to decide between the spot above license plate or around the spoiler area. Maybe I’ll ask R50jr for a pic of his just for an idea. Maybe I can get a good view and avoid drilling the trunk. If not, trunk it is! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! That info definitely cleared up a lot. That’s quite a setup you’re going to have there! I like it I’d love the flush mount option on the tailgate under the Nissan badge but was also thinking about placing it on the short wall of the bumper under the lift gate. Seeing that it would be easier to drill through and it’s just the bumper not the body. I’m attaching a pic with two spots I circled that I’m thinking of. But at the same time I have to see if there’s even any space behind there before I try that spot on the bumper. And then also check the spot on the tailgate to make sure it doesn’t interfere with the wiper linkage like you noted. And I shouldn’t have problems with wire length. I’m looking at a Crux CUB-01 or a Crux CUB-15. Both of which come with 20 feet extension in addition to the length on the camera itself which is about 4 feet. And then 3 feet for power ground. I’m planning on pulling power straight from the reverse wire by the light. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve installed an new touch screen stereo system into my vehicle. May have seen my other post about the tweeters. That has been replaced. But anyways I was not fully sure about installing a backup cam. However I think I’m going to purchase one to install. I’m pretty sure some of you here have tackled this job already so if anyone has some advice based on your installation. I was thinking of mounting directly to the lift gate above the license plate on that flat portion. Most likely will have to drill a hole through the lift gate to flush mount it and at the same time I can get the wire in. However, I am hesitant about drilling into the lift gate. But I’m not sure if I have another option. Also, aside from plugging the video feed into the back of the radio I know you have to tap into the reverse wire as a trigger on/power. However, I’m not sure exactly where this reverse wire is located. Please let me know if there’s any other wiring I would have to do besides the reverse wire, ground and plug into the video port. Thank you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tweeters were definitely shot, didnt bother trying to repair anything, I just replaced the tweeters with a set of kickers and the system sounds a whole lot better. Cut a hole into the original spot and flush mounted them in. Removed the the plug harness from the old tweeters and wired into the new ones, so plugged right into the original port. Have a link to the pics of what I did with the tweeters along with the new stereo I put in. Also removed the cigarette lighter to get in a usb and aux port. https://imgur.com/gallery/HqnOtBD

Ill try out what you said above. And yeah, getting nothing at all from either.

I changed the wiring harness, using the PAC integration system. The popping symptoms upon turning off radio went away. 4 speakers are working, but the tweeters are still not working. I guess they are blown. Odd that they both went. I checked power at the tweeter plug in the pillar and there is power coming to it. Didnt check down by the speaker.

Thanks for the help on that. Looks like I have to change the harness. Would the PAC ROEM- NIS2 wiring interface also work? I found it on Crutchfield. And it says to retain Bose amplifier in 94-2012 Nissan Infiniti vehicles. When you wired in your interface, was there two positive wires for each speaker? A high and a low? I was doing some research on the interface and I see people writing up about that. Because I know theres a positive and negative for each speaker, but how would you go about wiring if the interface has two positives and one negative for each speaker? Thanks

No, the one I had didn’t have that. Just a plain harness. I’ll look into the one you’re talking about. Do you recall the name by any chance? Also, I forgot to mention, when you turn off the vehicle or the source, you get a very slight muffle or pop noise. Didn’t happen before changing the radio yesterday.

I used the adapter kit for the wire harness to connect the Nissan wires with the aftermarket harness. One end plugs into the Nissan harness and the other end hardwires to the aftermarket harness. All wires in this case were hooked up.

So I got a new pioneer touchscreen double din system for my pathy and hooked it up today. Everything is great except, I noticed no sound coming from the tweeters by the windshield.My vehicle has the Bose system with the amplifier and I got rid of the Bose deck several years ago when the cd and other components on it stopped working. I had installed a cheaper aftermarket. Now I decided to upgrade to something better.So I can’t say for sure how long these two small speakers haven’t been working. If it’s since I originally changed the Bose or after. But I was checking today and no sound coming from it.Otherwise, all door speakers are working and sound is great.What could it be?

Has anyone ever changed their power steering fluid? I know the service manual doesn't have any intervals. My 97 Pathy has never had fluid changed and I'm still on original rack and pinion with 180,000 miles. Though it might need changing as there is a very slight play in the steering. It was worse before changing out the bushings for rack, now much better. Should I bother changing the fluid? I'm not planning on changing this rack out until next summer. If so what's the best method in doing so?

Going to change out the fluid on the transfer case this week with Castrol Transmax high mileage ATF. Has seal conditioners in it. So I check everywhere good. An no it’s not dripping. Who knows how long it’s been like that anyways.

Got the pic up on that thread, thanks for the help with that. I'm not sure if your pathy year has a higher torque spec but I tightened mine down to about 40 lbs. Did that with both struts. The service manual for my year (1997) recommended 39 ft lbs.

After spending a while under the pathy looking for the front end clunking noise I also discovered that some tranny fluid is weeping from the transfer case. It’s around two bolts at the bottom of it towards the middle. https://imgur.com/gallery/MxmWNos

Yeah I tried tightening. Wasn’t able to get it to go anymore. I’ll see if I can get my breaker bar or torque gun to get it a bit tighter. But when I used my 1/2in drive ratchet I wasn’t able to get it tighter. Funny, my dad also thinks it could be strut Mount related. But I asked him the same question wouldn’t it make noise more often or when turning. Mine does it almost always when going into driveways (like shopping centers with a sloped up entrance) and not when turning the wheel. But when the lock is already made and the passenger wheel is already up on the driveways but then when the driver side makes it up you get the clunk. Then again randomly when driving over bumps down the road but at a much lower occurrence. Who knows at this point lol. But aside from that issue I’ve discovered one more. Some tranny fluid sweating from the middle of transfer case out of the two lower bolts. Guess I’ll start a new thread on that. But how do you post pics on here. I’d like to get a pic of it up. thanks man

So one thing I forgot to check which I went back to today was the front differential mount bushing. They were shot. I took a screwdriver to the busing, prying against the frame and I was easily able to move it back and forth. Had my dad check back the suspension and cv and he doesn’t think the noise is coming from any of those items. Thinking it’s the diff bushings. Now would this be able to clunk?

So they were fairly easy to replace. Didn’t encounter any issues. Took about 45 minutes. The old ones were very bad. The clunking seems a lot better. However ever so often I still get a faint clunk when driving. more often going into driveways or parking lot entrances

Should I being soaking the bolts prior? Or do they come off relatively easy? Did you encounter any seized bolts?

Great! Guess I got a little project coming up this week. Will post back if it resolved the clunking or not. thanks