AR97Pathfinder

Hello everyone, I want to upgrade the shocks on the Pathfinder to Bilsteins. I currently have the KYB gas adjust shocks. I've searched the bilstein website and it states that they don't make any shocks for my vehicle, however, I saw on 4x4 parts that they sell Bilsteins for my vehicle. I have a one inch spacer lift, so I'll most likely go for the Bilsteins 5100 series, no lift option instead of the 2" lift option shock which they also have. WIll this bolt up without any modifications needed and should I get the no lift or 2" lift option since I have a 1 inch space? I'm just confused as Bilstein says they don't make for the 97 Pathfinder, but 4x4 parts says it fits the vehicle. https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981406-pathfinder-5100-series-bilstein-rear-shock.html

Hello everyone. I've had an oil leak on my Pathfinder for several years now, but it has gotten worse recently. The oil primarily leaks out once the engine is turned off, on flat ground and downhill. I replaced the valve cover gaskets recently, it was not leaking, but I simply replaced them when I had the intakes off. Upon looking underneath, there is a notable amount of oil on the pan, especially at the front and rear of the pan by the lip seals. Oil is on the housing of the tranmssion, but I suspect it is originating from the oil pan. I'm certain it is the oil pan and skeptical of it possibly being the rear main seal. I had the rear main seal replaced about 8 years ago. Vehicle has no other problems aside from some minor rocker panel rust that I plan on fixing. There is no other rust or rotten areas on the underside as I tried my best since it was new to keep that clean in the wintertime. I took the vehicle to the shop and was quoted $1500 (Queens, nyc) to drop the front diff and tramission to replace the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, front transmission seal, and motor mounts. Does the transmission have to be dropped on these pathfinders to repalce the oil pan seal? If not I may just tackle the oil pan for now. I would have continued to live with this leak, but it's just getting worse and making a mess of the driveway and anywhere I park on the street in my neighborhood. Please let me know what you guys think of the quote and if its worth it to drop the trans now too. Thank you

I was able to replace the lower trailing arms at the rear with poly bushings yesterday, however, I still feel unsteadiness when hitting bumps around turns, especially on the highway. I will change the uppers later today, but does anyone have ideas on what exactly is causing this sway? The upper links current are new Moog links so I don't think I should be feeling this instability when driving, especially with poly in the lower links. Could it be another suspension component?

Hello everyone. I’m replacing the bushings on the 4 trailing links at the rear of the truck with polyurethane from PSB bushings. I replaced the trailing arms a few months ago with Moog, however, I still feel a sway in the rear end. The panhard bar was changed about 5 years ago, so I’m not exactly sure why the truck still sways at the rear and feels a bit unstable. Coils, shocks, sway bar bushing, and end links are relatively new as well. Any thoughts? Could the panhard bar be bad? In regards to installing the links with the poly bushings, is there a piece of metal weld that needs to be removed from the brackets on the truck? I was reading about that online, but I want to make sure before I start cutting things. Thank you

If i decide to use camber bolts, is one bolt per strut enough?

Makes sense, I agree. Also, I am planning on a 1 inch spacer lift, I don't offroad, primarily just for a little extra height. Is a 1 inch spacer lift a safe option and would I need camber bolts for alignment?

Thank you. In your opinion, what is a better option between Moog (Rk series) and AcDelco (Professinal series) for these control arms. I will eventually put poly bushings in the old arms, but for now I wil put new links on the truck because I currently do not have the time to replace the bushings.

Yeah I did

I replaced the trailing arms on my 1997 pathfider 4wd about 2 years and 23k miles ago. For the upper arms I purchased Moog, however, there were no lower moog arms. I went with Dorman instead for the lowers and 2 years later they are already shot. I notcied there are Moogs available for the 2001 Pathfinders 4wd (MOOG RK660905, and RK660905). Would I be able to purchase these moogs and use it on my 97 Pathfinder since the suspension is the same on these vehicles for those given years?

The power steering is not that stiff when driving, I would say it can be a bit when parking, but you can still operate it using one hand. The fluid is in good condition since the steering rack replacement and has not darkened over the year. I’ll have to check the other noise out throughly. So far I only hear it when turning to the left and its mainly when the vehicle is first driven and cold. Once the vehicle is driven and everything has warmed up you do not hear it back at all. Thanks for the info on the pump, I’m going to replace it soon. The only thing I was wondering is if the pump has enough space to be pulled out without removing anything else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not a bad idea to check that, I changed that about 3 years ago when I did all the other belts. Steering related I’ve also just started hearing a creak or groan like noise when release the steering from a left locked position. So far it only seems to occur when first driving the vehicle after sitting in the cold. I literally have all new suspension front and back, and that’s practically every single component I’m talking about so I’m not sure where that’s coming from. New rack and pinion as well. I will have to do further checking once it warms up enough. It sounds like the noise your handbrake would make when you pull it or like someone burping, LOL. I don’t know if the pump can make such a noise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m planning on changing the power steering pump soon on the R50 as it has been making noise for sometime, especially the consistent squeaking pulley. Has anyone changed these out before? Anything in particular has to be removed before the pump can be removed? Just want to make sure I can get the job done in the same day and not run into anything too difficult as the weather is not great. But my grad program is starting back in January, and I use the vehicle to commute long distances so I don’t want to leave it. I should mention the original one on there is not leaking, just noise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ive had the Sankei brand ball joints on my R50 for several years now (probably going onto 8 years) and have not had any issues.

Ive had a similar issue with my 1997 R50. Its happened about three times now over the past few years where the gauge needle would randomly descend down to empty for a few seconds or minutes while driving and then correct itself. My gauge functions a bit differently, remains at fuel level once engine is shut off and does not drop to the bottom. But I know it will completely go out one day since its already started acting up. I should also mention, my low fuel light does not get triggered in the dash (bulb is working) so I assume its related?

Yes one is the entire rear resonator and the other is for the center muffler up to the cat. That makes up the entire exhaust system after the cats which is what you mentioned you were looking for. The diagram does show individual parts but the link themselves carry the part for what you are looking for. Cycle through the pictures on the link.

There should be options for the rear resonator and then the front pipes and center muffler as a single piece. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=268863&cc=1212051&pt=10038&jsn=704 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2461638&cc=1212051&pt=5872&jsn=664 There are a few more options of varying prices than what I posted above . When I swapped my exhaust I purchased from Rockauto, but at that time they also had the Bosal brand available. Good quality, its been about 4 years so far and no issues or a spec of rust. And I live in NY. As for the manifold, I'm not too sure.

Hello everyone, I am planning on installing some rock lights to the frame of the vehicle and I wanted to know if its safe to drill into the frame to run some very small self tap screws through to secure the light. I saw online when mounting rock road sliders to the vehicle much larger holes are drilled than just a screw so I wouldn't imagine there being an issue with this. But I would like some more input as I don't want to compromise anything structurally for some lights. I added a video of where I plan to mount them. It would be on the wall of that frame and close to the bottom of it so when the lights come on they catch the running boards as well. I'm tapping the dome light so it comes on when I open the door. Its more of a courtesy lighting setup I am going for than rock lights for off-road use. https://imgur.com/a/VR7MllP Thanks

Was it the 36R0788 like you have listed above? Where did you get it? Yeah that’s the one I installed. Everything has been great so far. And I ordered from summit racing and it took about a month to get to me as they ordered from the manufacture. Didn’t have in stock. Rockauto has it as well. It says 2 day delay but I’m not sure if it would be longer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It wasn’t bad honestly. I tied down the steering wheel first with it centered. I removed the splash guard underneath and then the sway bar brackets, allowing it to drop down. Then I loosened the banjo bolts on the two lines and all the fluid will leak out now so have a pan. There is a single bolt on steering shaft that has to be removed. Then I unbolted the rack and pulled it down and out. Make sure you check back if the new rack is centered. I got a ACDelco and they had said in the instructions it’s centered at factory but it wasn’t. You can use a vise grip pliers and a cloth on the shaft and turn the shaft from lock to lock to count the total turns. And then turn back until it’s half that amount and you’re centered. Installing is simply the reverse and then fill it up with fluid once everything is bolted up. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock several times with engine off and wheels still up in air. Then turn the engine on and turn lock to lock again several times. All the air should be out the system now. Make sure to use new copper washers on the banjo connections. And when installing tie rod ends count the threads on the old rack and set the new one to the same so you’re alignment is close enough until you align at the shop. Took me about 3 hours. I definitely wouldn’t pay that much to do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I do post it on other forums as well as I like to see the experiences others have as well with any part or job. Some individuals have different views or run into different issues. As with the bearings I have gotten different answers. One moderator member would say Timken is used out of the factory by Nissan, another runs into issues when trying to install them. So I’m just trying to make the best decision possible and know everything before hand, to get the job done once. I have done the research, trust me and they are quality bearings. But I’d like to know when it comes to installing them on a Pathfinder. Thanks for the feedback. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are timken wheel bearings good? Timken SET37 (inner bearing and race) Timken LM300849 (outer bearing) Timken LM300811 (outer race) Ive heard they may be fitment issues with them? Has anyone used them? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought it through Walmart. Had a set of Michelins from there that lasted about 7 years. but they don’t make them anymore for my rim size. (265 70 R15). So I got Bridgestone. And jeez that’s a long time ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did make a complaint an hour ago and got a $250 discount. So I think it works out fine in the end. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought some new tires for the Pathy and they’re manufactured on the 34th week of 2019. Is that too far back for new tires? They were bought online and shipped to me today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This weekend I installed a new rack and pinion. I also installed new coil springs on the front and rear. Along with new kyb shocks on the rear and strut on the front. I also got new kyb strut mounts, bellow, bump stop, and bearing. My strut didn’t need the spacer supplied. Everything went good with the installation. Except on the left wheel it looks like the bearing might be binding a little. You can feel and hear a slight thudding when trying to turn the wheel. And when I have someone do it and look at the strut I can see the wheel and strut assembly turning a bit before the top hat starts to turn. The bearing was a bit tight before I installed it and I did question it in my mind but thought because it was new. Will this break in over time or should I take it out? I did a string alignment after for now as I will be doing a machine alignment when my new tires are installed in the coming weeks. It came out pretty great to be honest. Drives straight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk