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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/24/2020 in Posts

  1. Bandwidth and storage would cost NPORA a bunch. We’d all have to pay dues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    2 points
  2. [mention=41900]PathyDude17[/mention] videos are an invaluable addition to the R50 community. Solid info there. Read the LR Springs string as the general consensus is that they’re the way to go for the rear. Britpart ships those from England to the West Coast US over a weekend for ~$80 US for everything. 4x4 Parts / AC is expensive shipping for everybody. As noted, be sure you align the struts properly & make sure you either reuse the OEM top hat or use the proper top hat spacer on an aftermarket. If you’re doing the springs yourself, use one of the new compressors systems, they are much safer & can handle the heavy duty springs safely & with ease. As you’re in Australia, I’d put that extra cost towards the OMEs in front - they are the undisputed quality leader for the front (though you may need a spacer if you want a full 2”). KYB makes a well respected strut that is half the price of the OEM struts (though maybe not for you). You should also follow PCoA an Australian forum with a fair amount of R50 info, particularly on products you can get that we can’t - plus it will address some of your legal restrictions that we don’t have over here.
    1 point
  3. Also full of rubbish, but that's just my Also if one takes the time to host photos securely, a forum acts as a fantastic archive, which Facebook doesn't do nearly as well, hence the same 3 questions posted there every single day.
    1 point
  4. "The image you are requesting does not exist or is no longer available." Looks like you used imgur, try this how-to for the proper way to share photos hosted on imgur. Looks like you're very close to doing it properly.
    1 point
  5. Hey @KiwiTerrano, do you still happen to have the photos of these recovery hooks? If so could you please upload them again? I'm keen to look at fabricating some but I'm a visual kinda person haha. I'm sure others would benefit from seeing them too!
    1 point
  6. Removed the drivers guard to do a rust repair, a bit worse than I originally thought but this is the only rust in the entire car, so I can live with it! Found a 2wd D21 king cab at my local wreckers (interestingly I very nearly bought this car about 4 months ago, now I've got a few bits off it for the WD.) Snipped the bottom off the RH guard to help in my repairs, should get the repair done over the weekend. More small, slow updates soon Stay safe and healthy FGF
    1 point
  7. If you have the same wheels (tri spokes) (I believe there’s 2 different wheels you can get on a 00-01), as this guy, here’s a visual and a thread. he’s fitting the same size of 33’s.: https://forums.nicoclub.com/fitting-33-s-on-the-2in-r50-ac-lift-t494106.html if you have the other OEM wheel (pictures below), it looks like Steve ( @fleurys ) is using 1.25” wheel spacers to fit 33’s. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/profile/5125-fleurys/ I hope this helps. I couldn’t quickly find backspacing for the OEM wheels, although I can find them for late model wheels pretty easy
    1 point
  8. Backspacing only matters when trying to fit larger tires. Swapping to AC coils will not require any kind of change in backspacing. I believe you may have gotten confused by the statement on 4x4parts.com website. As far as figuring out the backspacing on your wheels, find a site that has at least the width and the offset of those wheels. Backspacing = (Rim Width + 1”)/2 + (offset in inches). If the offset is negative, that means you’re subtracting it from the first calculation. if you want/need to, you can always check your calculations agains tiresize.com as they have a backspacing calculator. Also a good resource for comparing tire sizes.
    1 point
  9. Strato beat me to it haha. Forgive the video quality of that lift kit video... but it's a good reference for people who aren't familiar with lifting these, and I have several other videos that explain the rear options, Land Rover Part Numbers, and other common supporting modifications for lifting these vehicles (missing link, for example). This is the full playlist here Also a decent reference for finding online parts would be this video They're not perfect, but I hope they help establish a solid foundation of information. I'm sure we'll be happy to continue to answer any questions you have, but the videos are able to combine audio, video, and visual demonstrations more easily than forum posts.
    1 point
  10. well theres lots of people on this forum that can help you out, and there is quite a bit of info in here that you will just have to look around for. these are unibody not body on frame which means body lift is a no go.. you can do a sub frame drop, but that to my knowledge doesn't provide any lift. as for parts there are a few different combinations and options you can go with. i suggest checking out this video created by a user here in this forum. in the video it explains the different options for lifts and can help you decide what exactly you're looking for. welcome to the forum!
    1 point
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