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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/09/2020 in Posts

  1. A spoiler is supposed to attach there with 4 Philips screws.
    1 point
  2. My 2002 had that, it was pretty awesome. They called it ICC (Intelligent Cruise Control). It even had several options for following distance. It allows you to set your cruise control to some speed, and if you come up behind slower traffic it'll automatically slow you down to match their pace.
    1 point
  3. Yep, bodywise, the parts can be swapped around. A little thing I discovered while working at the Nissan dealership, the QX4 in 2004 I think it was offered an early version active cruise control.
    1 point
  4. Thanks! Surprisingly very little wind noise! Even at 75mph with no fairing. I thought with all the holes it would be super loud but it isn’t so that’s good!
    1 point
  5. I'm lucky to have my pathfinder and my car here, so I can wrench on both at the same time. I dropped the X off at a friends shop a few weeks ago so he could work on rebuilding the rockers. It's pretty much done now but I can't go pick it up... At least by the end of this we all should have some pretty clean and well maintained rigs lol.
    1 point
  6. That should work. Not sure how much behind the bumper and so forth you'd have to grab to make sure everything bolts up properly (I don't think you'll need anything other than the superficial stuff, but I'm no expert), but the vehicles are the same width and so forth so not massive issues like you're worried about; it's all the same unibody structure. Depending on the year, the QX4 may have HID headlights, so there may be some wiring to do to get them going, but if you can they look great in my opinion (shape and light output), so worth it. The plastic flares on the QX4's fenders on post-facelift models does flow into the trim on the doors, so if you're planning to swap all the bits front to back you can make the look smooth and complete, but otherwise you may have some compromises.
    1 point
  7. Also, don't lose the little filter screens in the front cover for the cam phasers. It isn't a terrible job but does take a lot of time and there are a couple of small O-rings that will need replacing too.
    1 point
  8. I’m assuming your water pump replacement involved removing those two black steel covers from the aluminum timing chain cover? (You left the aluminum timing chain cover on). You don’t have to lift the engine out but you do have to remove that timing chain cover, which involves removing anything that’s in its way like the oil filter and pulleys. You’ll need a pulley wrench for the crankshaft pulley. I’d suggest getting a new crankshaft seal for the front timing chain cover and double check your o rings that fit in the inside of the timing chain cover. You may need to remove some plumbing and wires that cross in front of the cover but leave the AC pipe. Take your time removing the cover so you don’t damage it. There are some bolts the are vertically aligned that hold it in around that oil filter so don’t forget those. It’s easier with two people pulling it off. When it’s off expect to spend and hour or so cleaning the old rtv silicone off the mating surfaces. When it’s off, you can see everything and should be able to access the mia gasket. Just don’t touch the cam phasers or sprockets with any screwdrivers or magnets. Haynes and Chilton manuals are surprisingly accurate and detailed for this project if you find YouTube or FSM lacking
    1 point
  9. Hey so I just installed a 24 inch led bar and I found that if you have an automatic r50 hands down the easiest way is through the clutch plate. I took off the clutch plate and behind it was a gap with a small metal plate across it. There was enough space for me to feed 3 wires in for a switch and the location for the button works out perfectly. I had to cut out a tiny corner from the clutch plate and tape it down so it wouldnt cut my wires. Taking the two 12 mm blots off feeding the wire and cutting the plate and putting it back together took under 8 minutes. Enjoy! ( ps this firewall break is as far from the battery as possible. The universal harness I was using did not reach the battery terminal so I had to splice in 3 feet or so. That's way easier than fighting through wiring grommets and air vents or whatever other firewall option out there.) Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
    1 point
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