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Lmao same!! I have pads and rotors in a box in my room with a cb radio waiting to go I just need to get the bearings, I just came home and the rears started to squeek now ugh Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

Thanks all I found the seal, found out nissan part numbers are slightly off, instead of the 40227 number it ended up being 40228-31G00 playing around with the bed some today, think i'll try this instead of a flat bed

Yeah man I’m definitely hoping it’s not something worse. This should be a fairly easy fix at least. So are we gonna race to see who’s done first? I’ve still gotta get the bearings but I’ve got some brand new bosch rotors sitting in the garage waiting to go lmao

Oh jeez, you’re right a warped rotor might be a possibility as well. We only replaced the pads when we did the last brake job a few weeks ago because the rotors were barely worn at all, so there’s definitely a chance that one of them is warped. But I don’t really notice any pulsating in the pedal while braking, which is usually the main symptom. I’ve also heard that a bad bearing could be connected to rotor warping, so maybe I should do both.

It’s in the steering wheel for sure, but also vibrates the whole front half of the truck from what I can tell. It’s not a U-joint issue because those have been recently replaced, it’s not anything else in the front end because everything’s been replaced except the wheel bearings. I can’t really imagine it’s a diff issue because the front is disengaged with the manual hubs unlocked, and the vibration is not coming from the rear I don’t think. Anything is possible though

Thats exactly what happened to me. There was a very loud sound (sounded just like mud tire tread slapping the pavement only a different tone, started at a higher speed, would increase in pitch more dramatically than the tire noise, and would create an oscillating droning as the tire and bearing sound waves would interfere with each other) coming from the driver outer wheel bearing and I had no idea because of those stupid (but useful in mud) tires. It was glaringly obvious when I got the wheel bearing exposed that it was completely toast. The grease looked like my daughters homemade glitter lip gloss, the rollers had gashes all over them, and there was a blue/purple streak around the outer race where it was getting super hot.

Update time. So far the carrier and bumper have held up well, but I finally received the original hinge pin that I was planning to use. I recommend never buying from Comp 4x4 because they ignored 3 of my emails over the span of a month and only shipped it after I opened a PayPal dispute. Seriously. Even if it’s a good product, I just can’t recommend them to anyone after that kind of service. Anyway, I’m planning to put it on tomorrow if I have the time. This should make the carrier a little stronger and make sure it’s not wobbly anymore. The current pin has JUST enough play to allow a bit of a rocking motion while it’s closed and latched, which isn’t ideal. I also just placed my order for the coastal off-road bumper today, which makes me super happy. I’ve been wanting a proper bumper up front for a while now. Should be a fun project to weld up. I went with the “no tubing option” because I figure I can make my own tubing fairly easily One problem I’m trying to track down now is this weird pulsating vibration at around 50-65 mph. It sounds almost like when you drive over rumble strips, but it’s intermittent anywhere between once a second and 2 times a second depending on whether I’m accelerating or decelerating and what speed I’m going. You hear it clearly and can feel the vibration mostly though the steering wheel but a little in the seat as well. It started just after putting on the new tires so naturally I thought it was a balancing issue and had them rebalanced, but nothing changed. So now I’m thinking it’s probably a wheel bearing issue. Maybe it was there for a while but was covered up by how loud and rough the ride was with the mudders? Or Is it possible that driving on those crappy tires for as long as I did could have caused the bearings to be damage? Either way, I’ll look into it further before buying parts, but it seems like that’s pretty much the only thing that could cause it

I think they look better without the oem running boards anyways

That is not something that even California will worry about. That padding in there is simply noise insulation. It is in there to reduce intake noise and will not affect the engine or emissions in any way.

I haven't seen a rebuild kit for the MC, but as has been said, replacements are not very expensive, though it does seem to be a crap shoot with the aftermarket ones. I have gone through a few for my 93, one was bad out of the box. The latest one has lasted for about 14 years though. Also as has been said, there are 2 versions for the WD21. One is 4 wheel disc and the other is for rear drum. The disc version runs a bit more fluid at higher pressure to the rear circuit than the rear drum version. They should not be mixed up, or there will be imbalance in the braking system preventing proper operation.

The '80s two-door trucks have a reed valve between the airbox and the charcoal canister for the air injection system, is that what you read about? The pad you're looking at isn't mentioned in the emission control section of the manual (or anywhere else, at least not that I've seen; even the exploded diagram here doesn't show it). It looks like it's made of carpet padding wrapped in the stuff the hood insulation's covered with, so I doubt it's anything special. More than likely it's just sound deadening for the intake for people who don't like whoosh noises. Mine's been gone since I got the truck. A packrat shredded it for nesting material, and I removed the brackets when I cleaned out the mess. I didn't replace it with anything and haven't noticed any issues stemming from it (though now that I think of it, there was a whistling noise from the PCV connection to the intake tube that took a while to track down). We don't have smog checks out here, but I'd be surprised if even California made a fuss about a manky pot holder that's not in the service manual or on the emissions sticker under the hood. If you want to replace it with something, you might try egg-crate foam. Just make sure you don't block off the drain hole underneath it.