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Should probably update this so you guys don't think I'm working on this thing forever lol. After 3 weeks of tedious work I finally got it back together and thankfully no leaks! This is definitely a big job to do nevertheless but totally worth it in my case as I would drip about half a quart of oil after parking... yeah. Also in the meantime while I had the rig apart@TowndawgR50 helped me install the Pines to Spines 4" SFD kit which also made it possible to take my oil pan out and access other parts of the vehicle. More details on that later... Also after this huge project and with addition to the SFD I have replaced and installed: New OEM motor mount Denso Starter 4" stainless steel braided brake lines from Goodridge Extended breathers on front and rear differentials U Joints New O rings in the oil pan as well as the pan gaskets and RMS IVAC gasket Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

The NPORA FB group will often stray you wrong with R50. A 1" SFD is a lost cause, having personally attempted to install a 1.5" SFD; the constraints are the same. I've seen the hack jobs of others who have tried (can't recall if the guy referred to you just ended up stacking an extra rag joint in his link). After you've sorted that, then have fun modifying the motor mounts and replacing all the hardware with expensive longer bolts...to achieve less ground clearance. As speculated, all the steering parts will fit, you just need a shorter shaft piece. No one's done it correctly, so no one knows the right length. It's not a linear extension length, as the other guy mentioned.

Pines to Spines Offroad 4" SFD kit is making her turn heads daily now [emoji7] Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Yes, the pan has a drain plug, and the Nissan approved service process was simply a drain and fill. The Asian manufacturers were a bit odd in the eyes of the American companies in that they put drain plugs in everything that held fluid. Drain plugs in transmissions and differentials? That's just insane! Everyone knows that pan removal is the proper way to change oil. But for some reason manual transmissions, transfer cases, and engines had drain plugs. Heavy equipment had drains also, so never made sense to not have them in cars and light trucks. My old 1975 280z and 1977 200sx even had fuel tank drain plugs.

Awesome, great to hear that the OME HD work well with the kit. Sounds like that’s the exact route I’ll be going then

This particular photo is with OME HD coils with a 1 inch SF creations spacer on the strut plus the 4 inch strut spacers. After the photo I took the 1 inch spacer out as it did cause my camber to be positive just very slightly even with camber bolts and the camber adjustment on the strut spacer with the Pines to Spines design. After getting it aligned at the shop with the setup OME HD coils and 4 inch strut spacer everything was within spec without the use of camber bolts. I sit currently around 5.5 inches of lift Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

@hawairish and @TowndawgR50 I don’t think you could’ve picked a better first vehicle to show off your product on. It looks killer Alex!

No problem. For personal peace of mind I would change it. And maybe change it twice like he mentioned. I know there is controversy on a total flush loosening things and causing more problems than solving anything, and I would agree with that. In my personal conclusion 2 changes contrary to a single flush and then using LubeGard is a safe bet.

If you are having any transmission issues, change the fluid. This is always safe to do as long as you replace with the recommended fluid. Just don't do a power flush. Worn ATF can look reddish on the dipstick but nasty black when you have 6 inches deep in a drain pan. In fact if you don't know the last drain and fill date, and your first drain is black, I'd do it a 2nd time within 1k miles. When you drain it, you are only replacing half the fluid on average each time. Also if you have a filter in the pan I'd replace it before serious transmission work. Once you think you have it stabilized, if the Pathy has an integrated radiator ATF cooler to make the pump output easy to access, I'd plumb a Magnefine magnetic filter into it. Also for the Honda with known radiator leaking into ATF issues, I bypassed the radiator and put the biggest external ATF cooler I could find in front of the radiator. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

First thing when you intend to drop the oil pan on a VG engine, before even disconnecting the battery, pull the oil dipstick and put it far away so you are not tempted to put it back in before the pan is installed. You will be swearing otherwise. My personal experience has been the "rear main leak" has usually been the pan seal rather than the main seal.

No worries. There are a range of rigs and capabilities within the group and nobody is left behind or not considered in event choices. Its no fun if everyone cant enjoy it, right? Dont underestimate the stock Pathfinder! They are pretty capable and will surprise you.