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Hi Everyone, It's been awhile since I have been on here. Since my last activity on here I have moved, gone to college and started my career. All the while my pathfinder has been siting in my garage back home waiting to be resurrected... I has been sitting in an enclosed garage for about 8 years. these are the things that I know that I am going to do to get it back on the road: -Replace all fluids, Oil, ATF, PS, PB -Remove old gas, (I foolishly didn't put in any fuel stabilizer) -Replace Battery -Possibly new tires? ( they where almost brand new last time I drove it and they are still holding air, but there may be flat spots) Can anybody suggest anything that I maybe forgetting or overlooking. Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks

Hello everyone. Just wanted to share my headlight retrofit with you guys. This is my 6th set of lights that I have retrofitted so far and and by far the easiest. The factory lights were super easy to separate and has plenty of room inside. I ended up the morimoto d2s 4.0 since I had those lying around. There are definately more projector choices out there but will require more custom work. The 4.0’s work well with our lights and use oem d2s bulbs which is a plus. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

100% legal luckily. Florida is way more lenient, than other crappy states like Crapifornia.

i personally dont think tires. i mean you should but even a small flat spot might come out once it gets rolling. as long as they arent rotten or showing their age and what not then they might be alright. Like raingoat said you should check brakes. And also check and make sure that there are no rodents living inside the engine bay

Nice job! I did this once before on a 7th generation Honda Accord and it was a pain in the butt. This looks honestly really straight forward for our Pathfinders... I might have to add it to the project list!

If I had to guess I would somewhere around 300-350 for all the parts. That’s the HID kit, projectors, and shrouds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With the additional lift in the rear and rake my tires clear the fenders now, so I removed my homemade bumpstops that were on the bottom of the spring perch. 3.5" inches would be great but I just have to make sure that the coils don't get unseated which would make it pointless lol.

Figured since I've used these "How to" threads SO many times that I'd give something back. This is my first "How to" guide so bear with me. In the FSM they call this a "Compression Rod"..@ my local Auto parts place it was called in the computer a "Strut Rod" and I've always called them a "Tension Rod" so whatever floats your boat. Ok here we go. So, to start look just behind the front wheels of your rig. See that Rod going from the LCA to the frame? That is your Strut Rod. You'll notice one black rubber bushing on one side of where it bolts to your frame and one on the other. Although the bushings may look fine, they're not, trust me. Unless they've been changed recently, change them. The bushing kit was $20 with my 40% discount at local auto parts store (Lordco) Time to complete: 2 hours (To be safe) Skill level: Easy Parts Needed: Moog Strut Rod Bushing Kit (1 Kit) Included in the kit is: (4) Strut Rod Bushings (4) Metal Washers (2) Strut Rod Sleeves Tools Required: 19mm Deep Socket 19mm Box Wrench 22mm Deep Socket 15/16 Box wrench Small Pry bar or flat blade screwdriver Your favourite penetrating lube (I used "Move-it) Air Impact gun (If you have it, easier) Torque Wrench So to start: Couple hours before you do this go and spray the 3 bolts per wheel with penetrating lube. you'll regret it otherwise. 1) Jack up one side of your rig (Use a Jack stand please, not a cinder block, not a tire, not a chunk of wood. I use 3 Ton Stands. You're neck is under the brake rotor basically while pulling on wrenches so...DO IT right or game over.) Just so the tire is off the ground then remove the wheel. 2)Remove the Rear most nut securing the Rod to the frame bracket. You'll need the 15/16" wrench as the torsion bars (or the bracket) won't allow you to get a socket in there. 3) Remove the 2 bolts securing the Rod to the LCA. 19mm Wrench on the top of the bolt and 22mm Socket underneath to get the nut off. I used air impact which makes it easier but a good 1/2" drive ratchet will do. 4) Pull the thing out. After the 2 bolts and 1 nut are removed it'll come out. You may have to pry the rear most bushing from the backside of the frame->rod bracket to allow you to pull it out. 5) After it's out, set it on your work space and look @ the rust, destroyed bushings and (if you're lucky like me) the part where the sleeve wore right through onto the actual rod.

6) If you're as picky and fortunate as me, to have a sandblaster, I just tossed the rod in the cabinet and blasted it quick to get the rust off. then put some tremclad on it. (Ignore the washer that I didn't take off yet, wack it with a hammer to get it off and put the new one on) 7) Reassemble it as it came apart. Washer, bushing (through the bracket) then bushing, washer, then the nut on the back. 8) It's kinda of a PITA to get back in since the bushings are all new n'stuff so what I did was got it all assembled back through the bracket and zip-tied the rod thru the bolt holes on the LCA until I got the rear most nut tight enough to allow the bolt holes to line back up on the LCA. this also prevents the rod from twisting when you're trying to tighten the rear nut. Then cut the zip-ties and put the bolts back through the LCA and tighen. 9) Torque the nuts down to 100ft/lbs (FSM says 97-108ft/lb I believe, so whatever.) 10) Put the wheel back on, lower your rig down, then start on the opposite side. It's exactly the same on both sides. 11) After all is said and done. Take it for a spin. 12) Have a beer, relax and stare at your rig knowing a job well done! Drive around for a day or so then re-torque the bolts again to make sure they didnt losen off. Any questions, Post them up! Thanks! More how-to guides to come!