hcr32

Super easy to do. Link

Well said, DO NOT use HID's unless you have projector housings made for it. It's so frustrating when Im driving down the road and getting blinded by some fool who has them in. It's dangerous and it looks like crap.

I figured it had something to do with the forum transfer. O well...maybe the OP can see this and repost them? Really interested in doing this swap on my D21 and just need a few pictures to guide me along.

Is it just me or are none of the pictures in this thread working anymore? Won't display...

Great! Thanks very much for the link! I thought I had seen a more detailed Manual other then the Chilton one I got kickin around. Thanks again

Hey guys, Crawled under the rig today and noticed that the front oil seal on the transfer case was leaking. Never tackled one of these jobs before and wanted to see if anyone had done it before. If so, is it just as simple as marking the driveshaft, removing it, removing the yoke from the t-case then prying out the seal, installing the new one and then reverse? Thanks again

Damn! That is a good price. Too bad I live up In Canada and with shipping and duty it'd be cheaper to get them here

I got's me a D21 tooo.. Check out my Members Rides section too.. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32684-hcr32s-hardbodyversion-2/

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K9515

I'm going to try that tomorrow. My plan is. -Ground drivers side headlight -Get a relay harness off eBay -H4 conversion Should be nice n' bright after

Alright, I'll tell you the whole story. First off, I DID SEARCH, before someone gets ****** with me for not searching. I discovered the problem may be a faulty headlight switch.. Anyways the story. So the other day I noticed that when I turned the truck on and released the parking brake the drivers side highbeam headlight came on. Came home, did some searching and noticed a common problem is the headlight switch. So I ordered a new one (not here yet) and decided to take the current switch off the and see if I could clean the contacts or anything. Took the switch off the stalk, looked @ it..wiped it etc. Before I put the switch back in I decided to start the truck and release the parking brake to see what would happen. the drivers side high beam STILL came on. So @ this point Im thinking that it may be something to do with the daytime running light module. I located the daytime running light module, unplugged it and turned the headlights on. All the lights worked EXCEPT the drivers side headlight...wouldn't do a thing. So plugged the DRL module back in, and now Im back @ square one...start the truck, release the parking brake, drivers side highbeam on. If I turn the running lights on they come on, highbeam still stays on, if I turn the headlights on the drivers side goes to low beam and everything else works as normal. Flick the highbeams on with the headlights on they work as normal. Sorry for such a long story but I just wanted to make sure all info is there so you electrical wizards may be able to give me a hand! Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

The picture below the one you quoted is a picture of the rod with that steel collar off. Most of what looks damaged and screwed up is that steel spacer...wasn't bad once it was off....i little notch worn into the rod and thats it.

I've used POR-15 with awesome results compared to any other rust paint. Pretty stupid body shops to be using a paint that is $150/gallon here...

POR-15! Google it...it's the absolute BEST for rust. www.por15canada.com

Wasn't able to get the torque wrench in there..and really there is no way since the bracket basically prevents it so I just "guessed" as best I could with the wrench. Im going to drive for a bit then snug it up after/

O crap! Thanks for pointing that out. I knew I shouldn't do much when I'm overtired! haha Thanks for the heads up!

I probably could have done it without removing the wheels but I did just for easier access.

Thanks! And yes, its quite amazing. I thought about replacing them not long after I got that truck, about 6 months ago, and glanced @ them and thought "Nah, they look fine for now". Then I was in the Auto Parts place the other day and thought "what the hell, its only $20". But ya, I couldn't imagine them getting any worse. It would wear right through the rod eventually then you'd have complete rod failure. Also didn't mention too that I wire wheeled the brackets on the frame then sprayed with "Rust-check" primer then some black tremclad over top. i know it'll probably just wear off but piece of mind for me knowing that I at least tried to prevent rust! I got some gravel guard kickin around..might spray over top with that too

6) If you're as picky and fortunate as me, to have a sandblaster, I just tossed the rod in the cabinet and blasted it quick to get the rust off. then put some tremclad on it. (Ignore the washer that I didn't take off yet, wack it with a hammer to get it off and put the new one on) 7) Reassemble it as it came apart. Washer, bushing (through the bracket) then bushing, washer, then the nut on the back. 8) It's kinda of a PITA to get back in since the bushings are all new n'stuff so what I did was got it all assembled back through the bracket and zip-tied the rod thru the bolt holes on the LCA until I got the rear most nut tight enough to allow the bolt holes to line back up on the LCA. this also prevents the rod from twisting when you're trying to tighten the rear nut. Then cut the zip-ties and put the bolts back through the LCA and tighen. 9) Torque the nuts down to 100ft/lbs (FSM says 97-108ft/lb I believe, so whatever.) 10) Put the wheel back on, lower your rig down, then start on the opposite side. It's exactly the same on both sides. 11) After all is said and done. Take it for a spin. 12) Have a beer, relax and stare at your rig knowing a job well done! Drive around for a day or so then re-torque the bolts again to make sure they didnt losen off. Any questions, Post them up! Thanks! More how-to guides to come!

Figured since I've used these "How to" threads SO many times that I'd give something back. This is my first "How to" guide so bear with me. In the FSM they call this a "Compression Rod"..@ my local Auto parts place it was called in the computer a "Strut Rod" and I've always called them a "Tension Rod" so whatever floats your boat. Ok here we go. So, to start look just behind the front wheels of your rig. See that Rod going from the LCA to the frame? That is your Strut Rod. You'll notice one black rubber bushing on one side of where it bolts to your frame and one on the other. Although the bushings may look fine, they're not, trust me. Unless they've been changed recently, change them. The bushing kit was $20 with my 40% discount at local auto parts store (Lordco) Time to complete: 2 hours (To be safe) Skill level: Easy Parts Needed: Moog Strut Rod Bushing Kit (1 Kit) Included in the kit is: (4) Strut Rod Bushings (4) Metal Washers (2) Strut Rod Sleeves Tools Required: 19mm Deep Socket 19mm Box Wrench 22mm Deep Socket 15/16 Box wrench Small Pry bar or flat blade screwdriver Your favourite penetrating lube (I used "Move-it) Air Impact gun (If you have it, easier) Torque Wrench So to start: Couple hours before you do this go and spray the 3 bolts per wheel with penetrating lube. you'll regret it otherwise. 1) Jack up one side of your rig (Use a Jack stand please, not a cinder block, not a tire, not a chunk of wood. I use 3 Ton Stands. You're neck is under the brake rotor basically while pulling on wrenches so...DO IT right or game over.) Just so the tire is off the ground then remove the wheel. 2)Remove the Rear most nut securing the Rod to the frame bracket. You'll need the 15/16" wrench as the torsion bars (or the bracket) won't allow you to get a socket in there. 3) Remove the 2 bolts securing the Rod to the LCA. 19mm Wrench on the top of the bolt and 22mm Socket underneath to get the nut off. I used air impact which makes it easier but a good 1/2" drive ratchet will do. 4) Pull the thing out. After the 2 bolts and 1 nut are removed it'll come out. You may have to pry the rear most bushing from the backside of the frame->rod bracket to allow you to pull it out. 5) After it's out, set it on your work space and look @ the rust, destroyed bushings and (if you're lucky like me) the part where the sleeve wore right through onto the actual rod.

www.autopartsway.ca Awesome site, spend over $80 and shipping is free. They have some brand name stuff and others that are not. I've ordered both and it all seems to be good. I've ordered from them many times, and sometimes had to return wrong stuff and I have no complaints! Also, usually every stat. holiday, they send out emails to you for coupons codes for 5-10% off. Shipping is pretty quick too

Installed my SS today as well on my Hardbody...The bracket on the C/L is SO close to the diff. mount...need to do fine tuning tomorrow. Put mine in the opposite way though..

That's sort of what I figured. Think it would have any relation to my timing issue? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32196

I'll snap a picture tomorrow. All it is, is the distributor on the bottom as a metal male spade coming off of it and I found the female spade attached to a wiring harness right below it..