hcr32

Thanks! And yes, its quite amazing. I thought about replacing them not long after I got that truck, about 6 months ago, and glanced @ them and thought "Nah, they look fine for now". Then I was in the Auto Parts place the other day and thought "what the hell, its only $20". But ya, I couldn't imagine them getting any worse. It would wear right through the rod eventually then you'd have complete rod failure. Also didn't mention too that I wire wheeled the brackets on the frame then sprayed with "Rust-check" primer then some black tremclad over top. i know it'll probably just wear off but piece of mind for me knowing that I at least tried to prevent rust! I got some gravel guard kickin around..might spray over top with that too

6) If you're as picky and fortunate as me, to have a sandblaster, I just tossed the rod in the cabinet and blasted it quick to get the rust off. then put some tremclad on it. (Ignore the washer that I didn't take off yet, wack it with a hammer to get it off and put the new one on) 7) Reassemble it as it came apart. Washer, bushing (through the bracket) then bushing, washer, then the nut on the back. 8) It's kinda of a PITA to get back in since the bushings are all new n'stuff so what I did was got it all assembled back through the bracket and zip-tied the rod thru the bolt holes on the LCA until I got the rear most nut tight enough to allow the bolt holes to line back up on the LCA. this also prevents the rod from twisting when you're trying to tighten the rear nut. Then cut the zip-ties and put the bolts back through the LCA and tighen. 9) Torque the nuts down to 100ft/lbs (FSM says 97-108ft/lb I believe, so whatever.) 10) Put the wheel back on, lower your rig down, then start on the opposite side. It's exactly the same on both sides. 11) After all is said and done. Take it for a spin. 12) Have a beer, relax and stare at your rig knowing a job well done! Drive around for a day or so then re-torque the bolts again to make sure they didnt losen off. Any questions, Post them up! Thanks! More how-to guides to come!

Figured since I've used these "How to" threads SO many times that I'd give something back. This is my first "How to" guide so bear with me. In the FSM they call this a "Compression Rod"..@ my local Auto parts place it was called in the computer a "Strut Rod" and I've always called them a "Tension Rod" so whatever floats your boat. Ok here we go. So, to start look just behind the front wheels of your rig. See that Rod going from the LCA to the frame? That is your Strut Rod. You'll notice one black rubber bushing on one side of where it bolts to your frame and one on the other. Although the bushings may look fine, they're not, trust me. Unless they've been changed recently, change them. The bushing kit was $20 with my 40% discount at local auto parts store (Lordco) Time to complete: 2 hours (To be safe) Skill level: Easy Parts Needed: Moog Strut Rod Bushing Kit (1 Kit) Included in the kit is: (4) Strut Rod Bushings (4) Metal Washers (2) Strut Rod Sleeves Tools Required: 19mm Deep Socket 19mm Box Wrench 22mm Deep Socket 15/16 Box wrench Small Pry bar or flat blade screwdriver Your favourite penetrating lube (I used "Move-it) Air Impact gun (If you have it, easier) Torque Wrench So to start: Couple hours before you do this go and spray the 3 bolts per wheel with penetrating lube. you'll regret it otherwise. 1) Jack up one side of your rig (Use a Jack stand please, not a cinder block, not a tire, not a chunk of wood. I use 3 Ton Stands. You're neck is under the brake rotor basically while pulling on wrenches so...DO IT right or game over.) Just so the tire is off the ground then remove the wheel. 2)Remove the Rear most nut securing the Rod to the frame bracket. You'll need the 15/16" wrench as the torsion bars (or the bracket) won't allow you to get a socket in there. 3) Remove the 2 bolts securing the Rod to the LCA. 19mm Wrench on the top of the bolt and 22mm Socket underneath to get the nut off. I used air impact which makes it easier but a good 1/2" drive ratchet will do. 4) Pull the thing out. After the 2 bolts and 1 nut are removed it'll come out. You may have to pry the rear most bushing from the backside of the frame->rod bracket to allow you to pull it out. 5) After it's out, set it on your work space and look @ the rust, destroyed bushings and (if you're lucky like me) the part where the sleeve wore right through onto the actual rod.

www.autopartsway.ca Awesome site, spend over $80 and shipping is free. They have some brand name stuff and others that are not. I've ordered both and it all seems to be good. I've ordered from them many times, and sometimes had to return wrong stuff and I have no complaints! Also, usually every stat. holiday, they send out emails to you for coupons codes for 5-10% off. Shipping is pretty quick too

Installed my SS today as well on my Hardbody...The bracket on the C/L is SO close to the diff. mount...need to do fine tuning tomorrow. Put mine in the opposite way though..

That's sort of what I figured. Think it would have any relation to my timing issue? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32196

I'll snap a picture tomorrow. All it is, is the distributor on the bottom as a metal male spade coming off of it and I found the female spade attached to a wiring harness right below it..

well monkeying around on my rig today I noticed a female spade connector just hanging below my distributor..I saw its male counterpart on the distributor so I plugged it in. Just wondering if anyone knows what it is for out of curiousity.. I have been battling a timing issue so Im thinking this may have something to do with it. Also found a plug on the same harness as the female spade connector and can't see if it plugs into anything near by.

Hey guys, Looking @ giving my rig a quick shot of paint to clean it up a bit. Was looking at the summit racing paint kits, more specifically a Acrylic Urethane kit, and wondering if anyone has used it and any thoughts on it. I live on Vancouver island just North of the border and they don't ship to Canada so I need to figure a way to get it.. thanks for the help guys!

I'll check the diagnostic mode and see what I get out of that. Might just buy a new distributor...They aren't as expensive as I thought..

Interesting..is there a way to test this? I ran the codes recently and nothing came up..

Yes, dual plugs. When I changed the plug wires i had a diagram to go off so Im very sure it is correct however I will double check.

Easy to install...and look and work great!

Hey guys, So heres my dilemma. Got a 87 Hardbody 4x4 pickup a while ago. Gave it a full tune up, (Plugs, fuel filter, wires, cap, rotor, air filter) and when doing all this I noticed the distributor bolts were loose and the thing wwas just moving around by itself. So I guessed the timing would not be correct so I got out my timing light and tried to time it. I have the distributor fully retarded and it's still about 22 degress BTDC, I was reading it should be about 10-15 degrees BTDC but it won't go any lower. The timing is controlled by the ECU on this thing so I really don't know what to do to get it any lower. Also, reading about this motor too is that the distributor only goes in one way if you take it out so Im guessing if for some reason it was out (Previous owner said it wasn't) it couldn't go in wrong. Any ideas? Thanks

Ya, mudflaps are next on the never ending list

Heres a couple pictures. Wasn't in this good of shape when I got it. Rusty box, fenders and the paint VERY oxidized. Since I do detailing on the side I cleaned it up a bit. I found a complete 1991 Hardbody RUST-FREE parts truck for $300 so I scooped that up. Swapped over the box, fenders, seats, rear bumper and a bunch of other random bits. So now Im in the works of setting up a paint booth in my shop and going to give the truck a quick paintjob to clean it up a bit. Just after putting the flares on FINALLY got it muddy! Spot I like to wheel up to on weekends. Amazing view on a nice day since I live so close to the ocean and mountains.

Hey Everyone, My name is Ben and Im from Vancouver Island, B.C. Few months ago I bought a 87' Hardbody 4x4 Pickup with the Z24i. Bought it as a winter beater for $700 and Im starting to like the thing! It's a lot of fun out in the bush. I've put a lot of work into it so far (I'll elaborate in a different post) and it's been a great truck. Awesome forum here! tons of info with knowledgeable people. -Ben

hey everyone! Just a looking for anyways input on a issue I've been having. got a 87' Nissan with the Z24 4 cylinder engine. when you first start it when it's cold it will not idle. If you take your foot off the gas it will run for maybe 5 seconds or so then die. Once it warms up its perfect..doesn;t miss a beat. i've changed the plugs, air filter and fuel filter recently and it didn't help. any insight? Thanks