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Just a quick reply here.... sorry about the delay @hawairish. I did see an invite in Hangouts, but did not recognize the name so I let it sit stalled. But @Pezzy did get a hold of me the other day asking about my inbox and sent a screenshot of your message along with. I didn't even realize it was full, however I found a few minutes to clear some PM Inbox room soon after reading her message... guess I was just trying to emulate B (@Precise1) with his perpetually full inbox ... and I did plan to get a hold of you. I usually do a pretty good job of keeping it just under full so that I'm available via PM. However it's also absolutely amazing how fast the staffs PM Inbox's can fill up at times. Just to be clear here, the following applies to @hawairish & @TowndawgR50 as it applies to this specific subject and is not a free pass for all to follow suit. I read your thread in the R50 section and recommend you continue with it to avoid any further delays in your guys' plans. Once we can discuss and perhaps work out an NPORA Vendor status, we'll look at moving it, if appropriate, into the Vendor Section.

It's not just new cars not having gauges. My '59 Triumph just has the speedo and the gas gauge and three idiot lights (and it's all in one unit). The '63 Scout I plow snow with has a speedo, temp gauge, and gas gauge, and a couple of idiot lights. They didn't really need more than that for what they were designed to do. (Don't get me started on the simulated oil pressure gauges in some vehicles, though. That's just lying to your face.) I'm not looking forward to self-driving cars. I don't think the tech is ready, and even if it was, look at who is trying to implement it. Automakers have enough trouble building systems that function with a human calling the shots. Toyota: remember how our code was so bad that our cars randomly accelerated, and we tried to blame it on the floor mats? Now we've given the computer control of the brakes and steering, too! Or GM: Remember how we couldn't build an ignition switch to save our lives, and then pretended there wasn't a problem? Good news! We had the same guys build the system that steers for you! The lifespan on a self-driving car will likely be short until something goes wrong. But that's no problem for the manufacturer. They can just brick it for safety reasons (or make it prohibitively expensive/risky to repair) and make you throw it away and buy another one. Or maybe they'll do it via subscription service so you never really own the thing, and it's never paid off. (Clean install, elcocko!)

Not a complaint, just an observation, but most of the admins and mods aren't frequent visitors to the forum these days. It's fully understood that vehicles, interests, and life change, so I don't have expectations that they'll always be online (I miss me some @Precise1 quips, though). Our trucks aren't exactly new, either. However, I've had a few questions lately that don't warrant public posts like this, but my PMs to current admins and mods have gone unanswered. Definitely not a knock on the current staff, but would it be beneficial to cycle in some new moderators? There are several active members with proven interest and knowledge that would make great moderators. (And no, this isn't a pitch for me; not interested.) For starters, it might be nice to see some renewed interest in checking for pin-worthy topics (i.e., Land Rover springs), cleaning out or condensing old pins, moving build threads to the Member's Rides section, etc. This is hands-down the best forum community I've been a part of. For the few years I've been around, is has also been very self-moderating. I've read some old posts and know this wasn't always the case. At the same time, sometimes it's nice to know (or believe) the forum isn't completely hands-off. I don't find the NPORA FB group a suitable replacement (noting that it's not directly affiliated with the forum, just a shared name and a lot of member overlap). My original reason for this post is because @TowndawgR50 and I had some questions about qualifications for Vendor status here. We wanted to hold off on our recent announcement until we were able to discuss things with the admin team, but could no longer wait for a response. @RedPath88, I believe you're the best person to talk to about this (and sorry to call you out directly here), but your inbox is full and the Hangouts invite I sent has not been accepted. We'd still like to chat about it if you've got the time.

I also included a pic of me with my 79 Monte Carlo back in the day just for fun and maybe get a laugh at how goofy I looked. Lol!! Circa 96 Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

I used a machanical oil gauge. Ran the oil line through the firewall where the clutch/slave master cylinder would go on the manual r50 into a T fitting I installed where the factory oil sending goes. I removed the oil sending unit and inserted the T fitting in its place. I wanted to use a T fitting that way I could still have the factory oil dumby light. Hook your oil line up to one side and the factory oil sending unit into the other. Walla! Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

It works just fine with conduit clamps into the slides in the rails (they’re easy to harvest at the junkyard-or just use washers-that’s what I did with my Yakima basketcase which was mounted to the rails between my load bars for 14 years. Also, I might be able to give you some once I’m sure how many I need). You’re local to[mention=40509]Pathy_02[/mention]. You should look at his. I’m sure he’d be happy to meet with you. Nice guy. He had the ability to cerakote the clamps so it looks positively great. My only complaint is that it sits less than a centimeter from the rail. The top bar on the rack is 1.5” which is too thick for cam strap hooks (which I love & have used for decades-I’ve done week long off-road overlanding trips in AZ with two 14’ kayaks strapped to my OEM load bars with cam straps with no problems). Anyway, the 1” lower bar on the rack is too close to the rail to accept a hook. There are work arounds (like a soft loop & moto straps) but[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] & I are working on 1cm squat square towers to give a little lift & I’d like them to vary in height to compensate for the rocker. Definitely plan on mounting an awning, like you’ve done, at some point.

Respectfully valid. - agreed ^ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think much of what I replied to on your original light bar thread applies here to some degree. For this particular thread, I might also make the following suggestions: In regards to wire gauge, start with Power = Volts x Amps, or P=VA. Figure out amp draw first (A = P/V), then you can use a variety of wire gauge charts. Wire gauge, part 2: the length of wire matters, too. BTW, I don't recommend those pod lights for that application: too much amp draw for the application, blinding light, very bulky, heat generation, limited space. At 140W, they'd warrant 10AWG (max 15A) because of the 10A-12A draw (140W/14V = 10A, 140W/12V = 11.7A), exceeding 12AWG (9.3A max), but because they'd need about 20' of wire, you might even consider 8AWG...a bit heavy duty for the application, though. Having installed flush mount lights under my liftgate (see below), there's not much room to work with unless you're willing to cut metal. Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of low profile flush mount LED options out there. The adhesive LEDs aren't aesthetically appealing, but are great functionally. Plan on separating your power needs to front vs. back, if you haven't already. That way, you can run dedicated leads to each area with a thicker gauge wire, then distribute power on thinner gauge wires. This will spare you a lot of headache routing wires. The cheap USB/Voltmeter/Socket combos that you can find everywhere on Amazon and eBay are great, inexpensive ways to add those items anywhere. All they need are two wires (and can be daisy-chained in most scenarios) and a 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" bit. And there are tons of options available. Consider your circuit demands when thinking about relays and switches, as one or both might not be necessary. Generally speaking: You really only need a relay if the max amp draw on the circuit will exceed the max amp rating of the switch, or if you want the circuit to energize in the ACC/ON positions. A switch, of course, is only if you want/need manual control. If worried about draining your battery, you're better off using a relay and ACC/ON lead. Otherwise, a switch doesn't really offer much practicality unless there's some need (including general safety) to disable all or part of the circuit. Having it control a light makes perfect sense, of course. ... I've done a few projects in my truck that might align with what you're wanting. Though only an option if you switch to a single-DIN headunit, I bought a factory radio-delete panel and mounted components to it. Voltmeter, dual USB, and aux audio input pod for the radio. The voltmeter and USB port tap off the factory power socket. From Jax99's air compressor setup, the change pocket by your left knee might make for a suitable place to tuck a USB port and voltmeter there. I'll likely be going back to a double-DIN headunit soon, so those will all get relocated. (And in case you're wondering, I swapped out the pocket under the radio with one from an All-Mode truck, so that affords some additional switch space, for which there are Carling-sized USB bodies that will fit there. The All-Mode switch is wired to control my air compressor and lockers.) This is just a panel kit that came with a switch, voltmeter, socket, and dual USB components. Wired it up for my fridge. The panel cover is on a simple harness coming off a 6-circuit fuse panel. I ran an 8AWG wire from the battery to it. I intend to run all other cargo accessories and exterior lighting through this. Also, I don't know if all R50s have that socket in the lower right of the pic, but I think all the trim panels have the flat spot and socket wiring behind it. You can buy the OE socket, or put any other socket/port/switch there. The wires come through an existing rubber cap. As for liftgate lighting... I really liked these pods, as they're very low profile both above and below the mounting surface, but I wish there was more light output. The lens is also a switch. I ran the wire through the OE grommet/boot in the upper LH corner of the gate and over to the rear cargo light, and that's where they draw their power from (yellow harness). I just drilled out rivets on the cargo lamp, put in my leads, and riveted it back together. This allowed the factory switch to act as the master switch for all three pods, then I could turn each on/off as individually. However, the interior lights will turn off automatically after a few minutes to prevent draining the battery. You must open a door to get the light back on, but for the liftgate, the door switch is integrated into the latch and is not convenient to toggle. So, I added a switch (subtly shown below with an unlit blue ring) that toggles the door switch circuit...sorry for the crappy pic, but it's mounted on the plastic bump on the trim behind the pivot for the wiper.

@ferrariowner123