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I have one I got off craigslist. It was 100 bucks. 42" Works fine for me.

After patiently waiting they finally arrived couldn't believe I also got the corner lights along with the fender lights really good deal 315$ out the door shipping and all. I've looked high and low for the wiring diagram on a terrano regulus and cannot find a FSM manual on it. I can get on and download the FSM for the 2001 QX4 which it has the Xenon too. Does anyone know if the wiring for the headlights on a 01 QX4 is the same for a 97 Terrano Regulus with the Xenon headlamps. Just wondering if I can use the 01 QX4 headlight wiring diagram and make it work on my 97 QX4? Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

2 things worth noting: *Complaints about significant wind noise on roof light bars. *Blinding light from reflection off the hood. Alternatives to consider: Light bar integrated into forward grill (eliminates wind noise & reflection issue) Ditch lights (give better lateral light for looking for camp sites, forest roads, etc. & easy to mount from hood hinges with minimal fabrication)

I have no idea why or for how long, but Nico's manuals are back online! I saw a post about this on the NPORA FB page, and sure enough, here it is. http://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-pathfinder-factory-service-manuals.html

Don't trust the waterproof ratings on some of the cheaper stuff. I put a pair of Kawell LED lights (not proper bars) on mine as backup lights, and the ad said they were waterproof, but they weren't sealed for crap. The fittings for the wires were loose, and I discovered after sealing those up that the lenses weren't sealed either. I ended up tearing the leaky one apart and putting them both back together with a bunch of silicone. They're bright as hell but it's a good thing they're mounted down where you can't see them, because they look like they lost a fight with a tube of Ultra Black. Oh, and if you're even considering using the bar on the road, hook the switch into one of your high beam leads instead of constant + so that the bar turns off when you dim your lights. I've driven past one bro truck with the light bar on and that was enough.

You painted that frog in the picture too?

BINGO! That is exactly my concern & will be my solution. I can totally see my wife or my Mom getting in it where it’s parked in 2WD & switching it to auto due to our nearly ever present PNW rain. No matter how many times I might tell them, there’s a very good chance they’ll forget.

Absolutely hit me up for stuff. While I do have a list of things I'd like to produce normally, I'll be up for anything custom anyone needs.

Great idea! I’m definitely going to do this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got it back together! Wooh! That was fairly difficult. But it was all for nothing as 3rd and 4th are still slipping very badly. Yeah, I did get it into 4th this time by really jamming thru 1st and 2nd but it was slipping just as bad as 3rd! Oh well. That’s that and I can be at peace now about pursuing a replacement, and I got to learn some too. Thank you guys for helping me out and giving me good advice. I hope I can just replace the transmission.. like I said before, my wife isn’t going to go for it and I might have to let my Nissan go for a while. Sad times. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fairly subjective, you might get a wide variety of answers in terms of making a selection. A lot boils down to budget and general usage. I'll never stomach spending the money for some brand name ones...they won't make or break my adventures. I really like the aesthetics of curved light bars that span the top of the windshield. There was one install pic somewhere on NPORA that looked great. But, they're impractical for my application: I rarely offroad at night, and in the situations where I have, I wouldn't be able to use them because I'd just be blinding the guy in front of me. A smaller light bar in a low position will serve my needs. If electrical isn't your thing, look for wiring kits...they'll usually include the switch, relay, loomed wiring, and crimped terminals. Some will include a water-tight harness, or otherwise be plug-and-play (particularly if the light and wiring are of the same brand). Harnesses that come with Carling switches (those rectangular ones) are a close fit to the rectangular knockouts on the dash, but some modification (by knife or file) might be needed, and you might have some close clearances if using the openings to the left of the steering wheel under the vent...the dash can interfere with the paddle switch operation (at least on the later models they can). The round switches install well with a Forstner bit, which leave a better cut than standard or paddle bits in my opinion. I usually drill the hole right into the knockout piece, knowing that I can replace it easily if my setup changes...if taking this route, put some disconnects on the switch wiring to simplify installation/removal. As for mounting...this is probably the trickiest part since it's all custom. If the light bar brackets are included (some aren't) using your roof rack rails might be pretty trivial...some slot or square nuts in the channel (probably have the OE ones already in there and unused...I think they take an M6x1?), matching bolts, and some pieces of plate steel or aluminum cut to size/shape would give you some offset mounting options, since the end of the rail is still several inches from the windshield line. If you're willing to drill into the roof and have access to a rivet nut setter, that's another option, as is self-tapping screws into the A-pillar (though probably not the approach I'd take...just be sure to seal any holes with silicone and rubber gaskets to prevent water ingress). If you want some custom brackets made, I could cut something out on the plasma table, perhaps even get some bends in it. We'd need to talk about some dimensions, of course.

There’s some junk in there.. yes, but I don’t know what I’m doing or looking and maybe it’s enough crud to stop it from working or maybe it’s not... The accumulator springs fell out when I brought the valve body down and I need someone’s help who has done this because I don’t know how they went. To say this is intimidating is an understatement... I am seriously concerned about whether or not I can get this thing back together.. And help or advice is greatly welcomed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you so much! That is awesome news to hear, I’m a huge fan of the stock 17 inch rims Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No need for hope, they're confirmed to fit: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33354-manual-locking-hubs-with-stock-03-04-wheels/?do=findComment&comment=737467 Note that they also have a smaller diameter than the Warns, and I believe also the Mile Markers. Those two won't fit the 16" and 17" wheels with the flush-mount center caps because of the inner lip on the wheel for supporting the cap, which reduces the center bore at that point to about 84.5mm (wheel center bore is 100mm). You could grind the lip, but would lose the ability to use center caps on the wheels. The older wheels had a larger center cap/cup that didn't reduce the center bore of the wheels (but would have needed removal or modification to expose the hub dial), which is probably why you don't see the hubs having late-model applications.

I relaxed last night and didn’t touch it. I may or may not dig in to it tonight. My wife is trying to talk me into giving up on my Nissan... honestly if it was bad luck, I might, but this is because of my own mistakes and I can’t just say screw it. I watched some YouTube videos and it doesn’t look too difficult. I saw one of the videos talking about testing the lockup solenoid and that orange connector is the one he was working with. I hope it’s some trash in there guys.. I really do. If I need a new transmission then I’m afraid, for the sake of my marriage, I might be forced to buy a different vehicle.. nevertheless my Nissan will rise again, just at a later date. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

She moved under her own power. Still more work to do, but a couple of quarts of tranny fluid, replace the diff fluid, and I may drive her to work.

Alright! I got the AC installed the other weekend, and it is GREAT! Fired up the plasma cutter to do some by-hand cuts last week, and tonight I cut my very first pieces on the plasma table! Nothing special, just some mounting tabs for a bracket to hold up a massive ventilation fan that @TowndawgR50 hooked me up with. Getting the rest of the ventilation pieces tomorrow, and will hopefully weld up the fan bracket and get things installed over the weekend. I think that's the last item on my list to complete the garage-to-workshop conversion...well, could use a TV in here, maybe move my mini-fridge from the other garage, some more lighting....anyway, details. Over the weekend, I also got around to converting all my original parts and some V2 modifications into the CAD/CAM application I was hoping to use for both my CNC router and plasma table. The application (Autodesk Fusion 360) is very frustrating, to say the least. Some issues are surely learning curve induced, and it might get me where I need to be in time, but I'm going to explore some other options first. Notably, it allowed me to cut my parts tonight, so at least I know we're heading in the right direction.