k9sar Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 so I spent the day cutting my old exhust system out and got to the point where I removed my exhaust manifolds. I have 2 studs that have snapped off in the head. So there I sit, looking through the wheel well at the broken studs and wondering how the hell I'm gonna get a drill in there to get at them. Suggestions? If my air-powered drill (little thing) doesn't work, I was thinking about taking a steel rod, drilling a hole in the end to accomodate my drill bit, side drilling to put a set screw and hoping I get everything straight. This would effectively make a footlong drill bit extension (for one size). That would let me get at the broken studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Maybe remove the fenders? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 First, drill counter clockwise when ever possible, it's worth the drills if you can get them locally/reasonably. I understand the extension you propose but it will run out like a mother, making it almost useless. Better to buy a Harbor Freight right angle drill type thing. I can make left hand carbide spade bits in almost any size that will make short work of this. 8mm-1.25 thread= 6.75mm minor diameter. A 5.5-6mm drill will do it depending how good you are. Let me know, but I can make the drills and ship them in 2 days. I owe you, you sent me my FSM, even if I lost it... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 (edited) hmm... 90 degree... will make a HF run in the morning I guess. as for the spade bits... sure. I'll pm my address. If you include your return addy, I'll throw back another FSM if you want. I think I still have a folder on my computer called For_Bernard. update: I tried to PM you but I received a message that you can not receive any new messages. Edited March 22, 2010 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Scott, I agree with B on the right angle drill adapter. That alone should make life a lot easier. And the bits he's offering should make very short work of those studs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 What worked for me: I'm not sure if you have access to a welder, but if so, hold a nut over the stud, as centered as possible. Weld the nut to the broken off piece of stud. Then throw a socket on the nut and crank the stud out. If no welder, B seems to have you sorted out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Yeah, a left hand bit can actually spin the broken stud out rather than drill through it if you are lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indigent Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 I bought this drill from Tacoma Screw. It fits in from the top perfectly. You will need to pull of the wheel and snake your hands into the little gap between the frame and the inner fenderwell. I ended up being able to maneuver the drill to each stud. Then I used those spiral excractors and pulled each one out with ease. The only thing that sortof sucked was that the drill I mentioned is not reversible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 What worked for me: I'm not sure if you have access to a welder, but if so, hold a nut over the stud, as centered as possible. Weld the nut to the broken off piece of stud. Then throw a socket on the nut and crank the stud out. If no welder, B seems to have you sorted out sounds good but they snapped down inside about a thread or 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 I also did some digging through my tool piles and found that I actually do own a right-angle drill attachment. Now what I need is decent weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 The right angle adapter was still a giant PITA for me. What I did ended up being extremely effective and allowed me to remove 6 broken studs rather easily. First and foremost you will need some good cobalt drill bits and a high quality extractor. Next you will need to pick up a quick change keyless chuck and a 12" quick change extension. You should be able to figure out the rest. If you can hammer in the extractor after drilling the hole in your stud it will grab easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 The right angle adapter was still a giant PITA for me. What I did ended up being extremely effective and allowed me to remove 6 broken studs rather easily. First and foremost you will need some good cobalt drill bits and a high quality extractor. Next you will need to pick up a quick change keyless chuck and a 12" quick change extension. You should be able to figure out the rest. If you can hammer in the extractor after drilling the hole in your stud it will grab easier. nice... where do you pickup one of those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91056 http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM161985399P?keyword=keyless+chuck http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SP100A2997S159715916P?keyword=keyless+chuck http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM211697474P?keyword=keyless+chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 sounds good but they snapped down inside about a thread or 2. Mine too. I was still able to weld to the stud. Use a nut that's just slightly smaller inside as compared to the O.D of the stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 CCW carbide spade drills sent. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 25, 2010 Author Share Posted March 25, 2010 Question for all you who have installed headers... Seems there is a lip where the headers mount to the engine. should I grind these flat or trust that the pipe will seal good enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 Leave it be, that is where it will seal, not much more surface area on the heads . Just don't over torque as it is a small surface area. Something like 14ft-lbs for the Thorleys IIRC. Some permatex copper can't hurt either... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 well... I had to take the steering linkage off to get clear access with a drill. I was successful in removing one of the studs in the drivers side by drilling through it and using a square extractor. Easy as pie... until... On the second one, I drilled through the stud (did I mention that a 13 piece cobalt drill set was on sale at sears for $25?). Anyway... I tapped in the extractor to get a bite on the stud, got on it with my extractor socket, extension and breaker bar (like the prior one) and gave a bit of a twist. I got about 1/4 of a turn and then SNAP! Not only did the extractor snap but it broke uneven so there is no hope of getting centered on it to drill it out. So I flattened the tip of my centerpunch trying to get a mark on the broken extractor. I then was able to take one of my old spiral easy-outs and beat it into the broken piece to chip off a little sliver and make a center(ish) dimple. Now I have a palce to drill but.... damnit... nothing is drilling through it. I tried the bit that was on one of my extractors (a grabit I think it's called, I tried the bits that B sent, I tried cobalt drills, I tried masonry drills, I tried waving a chickenbone cross over it and this is as far as I got: So the way I see it, I have 2 options left... trying to weld on a nut and replacing the head Question... I am thinking that I need to get a small nut and taper one side so it fits only on the stud end without being on the aluminum head. Then I need to hold it in place and hit the center of it with a weld. Do I need to be careful not to weld the nut to the aluminum or is that not going to happen (I know very little about welding different materials)?? Any detailed hints? I figure I'll stop at Lowes and buy a welder on my way home from work. No thing big, just enough to work on @!*% like this and perhaps customizing my exhaust system if it doesn't quite fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 You got the bits I sent on Tuesday already?? They didn't drill through the extractor?? They will drill through hardened steel!! Did you remember that they are CCW or left handed drills?? If not, check to see if there is a cutting edge left and try again. Those are what I use to remove bolts, taps, dowel pins, etc... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 Ouch. Welcome to broken stud hell. I say this because I had a similar circumstance happen to me. However, I had already gotten a hole into the stud that was just enough to tap for a 6mm stud. So far it has held. Anyway here is my comments: It's hard to tell but if understand correctly the extractor is broken off inside the stud and you plan to weld to it. I wouldn't be worried about the nut getting welded to the aluminum. That is virtually impossible, but the heat from weld can melt the aluminum. So keep that in mind. Also, I'd wonder about the compatability of welding to the hardened extractor. If I remember correctly hardened materials can be tricky to weld to sometimes. Do you know a fabricator shop that does welding? If so, I'd ask them what your chances are and recommended welding technique. Alternate Ideas: - Is this still on the driver's side? If it wasn't I'd be tempted to yank the head and take it to a machine shop to get the thing out. - It looks like you have good access, so I might be tempted to cut a cross slot with a dremel cutting wheel. Honestly, I think the chances of success for this idea may be low, but I thought I'd throw it out there. - Uh..okay i'm out of ideas...Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 You got the bits I sent on Tuesday already?? They didn't drill through the extractor?? They will drill through hardened steel!! Did you remember that they are CCW or left handed drills?? If not, check to see if there is a cutting edge left and try again. Those are what I use to remove bolts, taps, dowel pins, etc... B YEa... the postperson delivered them as I was cursing at my truck. Yes, they are left handed and I treated them accordingly. The extractor I used was designed to drill into grade 10.x steel. I'll give it another try tomorrow before I try the weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 27, 2010 Author Share Posted March 27, 2010 Scott 1 Broken stud 0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 28, 2010 Author Share Posted March 28, 2010 ok... ready to install but there is an issue on the drivers side. Seems that the header pipes interfere with the motor mount. Anyone else have this issue (anyone with a 95 SE w/ AT)? Here is a pic of the item in the way: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 Scott 1 Broken stud 0 Good to hear. How did you finally get them out?? You have the Pace makers Setters, correct?? I have a 95XE but with Thorleys so I can't help there... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 I didn't have any interference with the motor mount at all. It's tough to tell from the pic, but what part of the header is it hitting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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