DoctorBill Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 (edited) Been reading about the WD21's AT's overheating and blowing out. Happened to the previous owner of my '95 XE-V6 4x4 at around 95,000 miles. OK. So one should modify the Transmission's cooling by adding a second cooler. Do you mean a second small radiator up front ? Where does one obtain this magical device ? Do you have to have it done in a shop or can one easily and simply do it oneself. Remember - I am a simple person who can eat and watch TV at the same time, but much more is beyond my capacity. Is this expensive ? I am a retired, old man without "disposable income". Just living these days costs a fortune ! Besides....I must save money so's I can buy cigars and Beer! The Supreme Leader, El Supremo just signed Legislation that will undoubtedly increase the cost of my cigars... Probably Beer will be next - after all, it is for our own good ! Prohibition may rear its ugly head again. DoctorBill Edited July 2, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 If I understand the process correctly, the aftermarket cooler adds a small radiator in front of the stock radiator, as it usually siphons off the main radiator which is prone to clogging... So this process just puts it on its own system... Personally, when I have my timing belt and such done in 20k miles, I'll probably have them put in the aftermarket cooler, and the filter relocation kit.....just to make my life easier, unless it dies before then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 OK. So one should modify the Transmission's cooling by adding a second cooler. Do you mean a second small radiator up front ? Yes and yes. Completely bypass the stock cooler (in the bottom of the radiator) and run solely to the 'aftermarket' unit. Do you have to have it done in a shop or can one easily and simply do it oneself. Remember - I am a simple person who can eat and watch TV at the same time, but much more is beyond my capacity. All you need is basic tools (wrench/screw driver/catch pan), some hose and hose clamps, mounting hardware and the cooler. If you have lived and worked long enough to retire, you should be able to handle this... Is this expensive ? I am a retired, old man without "disposable income". Just living these days costs a fortune ! A new one should be well less than $150 and used ones can be had from a local junk yard for cheap. Ford Exploder is a popular donor but it is really what size and shape you need and can fit. Besides....I must save money so's I can buy cigars and Beer! Good Man!! Let me see if I can dig up a picture of what I did... B The PO had installed this, but I improved the lines, rotated it sideways so the inlet is at the bottom so it can't trap air and remounted it. I was told this was a 18,000lb capacity cooler or how ever they rate them... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 (edited) A new one should be well less than $150 I am trying to find these coolers on Google and E-Bay right now - I am multitasking. Itching my butt, drinking a Beer, picking my nose (other hand) and typing on the keyboard ! Wow, maybe I can put this cooler on myself! I'd be smoking a cigar, but "she who must be obeyed" won't let me smoke in the house.... Bear with my questions - I am of the unwashed driveway mechanic type. What pumps the coolant thru the secondary radiator and the AT ? Is the coolant the same coolant as cools the engine ? If you disconnect from the car's radiator (where the water pump drives the coolant), how does the AT get the coolant moving? What happens in winter when it is zero Fahrenheit outside? Is there a thermostat in this AT Cooler ? I am soooo confused ! DoctorBill PS - Schucks (O'Reilly) has one for $56 - they sell 36 different coolers just for the '95 Pathfinder. http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdetail....895&PTSet=A Still don't understand what drives the coolant...or what the coolant is made of. Edited July 2, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 There is no coolant it's just the ATF (tranny fluid) circulating through a radiator that is self contained inside the main radiator. Also it is pumped by the transmissions internal oil pump. Hope that explains it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 (edited) There is no coolant it's just the ATF (tranny fluid) circulating through a radiator that is self contained inside the main radiator. Also it is pumped by the transmissions internal oil pump. Hope that explains it. Yes ! I should have realized that Dexron would be the cooling fluid - too many beers... What is so bad about the Cooler that came with the Vehicle ? Smaller area ? A radiator is a radiator is a radiator...no? Why would the stock radiator get plugged easily versus these after market things ? What keeps the AT from getting TOO COLD in nasty winters ? Do you turn a valve off in winter? Can you 'gang' two together for extra added cooling capacity - like desert driving ? Price variation on E-Bay is astounding ! Some even have their own fan...yikes! DoctorBill PS - I like your avatar ! "The Jerk Store Called" Edited July 2, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 (edited) Adam covered that well. You will have hard lines until the front of the motor and then rubber lines attaching to the radiator. All you really need is more rubber hose and hose clamps. Those hoses will have to be necked down to... to... (forgets the size). B What keeps the AT from getting TOO COLD in nasty winters ? Do you turn a valve off in winter? Can you 'gang' two together for extra added cooling capacity - like desert driving ? People who live in terrible places claim the cold causes no problems other than some stiff shifting until things warms up. One person claims that fluid can jell and block the lines, but I can't imagine how cold that would have to be to jell ATF... No valve, but I guess you could do that until things warm up. Yes, you can gang them but I don't think that is necessary. Edited July 2, 2009 by Precise1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 Adam covered that well. You will have hard lines until the front of the motor and then rubber lines attaching to the radiator. All you really need is more rubber hose and hose clamps. Those hoses will have to be necked down to... to... (forgets the size). B People who live in terrible places claim the cold causes no problems other than some stiff shifting until things warms up. One person claims that fluid can jell and block the lines, but I can't imagine how cold that would have to be to jell ATF... No valve, but I guess you could do that until things warm up. Yes, you can gang them but I don't think that is necessary. Mine shifts rough until warmed up with the stock cooler...Even kinda rough from 1-2 in the summer unless you've been driving for about 20 minutes. Meh its got 175k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 (edited) OK ! Thanks folks. I think I have the idea now. Not so big a deal after all. I believe I will go buy one of those Schucks (O'Reilly) ones for $40 and pop it onto the front of the radiator. Do they come with clamps and attachment brackets? Can you use just rubber hoses w/o metal pipes involved? Does anyone have a minimum size (area) recommendation ? Contrary to the Politically Correct statement - size does matter ! I have no plans to haul big honking trailers around. Have a 1,000 lb utility trailer, but use it maybe once every year to haul crap to the dump. I don't go off road. Winter snow is the only thing I might tax the Automatic Transmission with... DoctorBill Edited July 2, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 I recommend a 13000 BTU (19000 GVW) B&M cooler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 TOO COLD in nasty winters ? hahaha.. good one... you got nothing to worry about..,, there are a few here that had to deal with with winter temps you probably will never see. at that point the main thinking is to keep it in the positive numbers in the cab. check how to's in the garage.. i am sure there is whole thread about this in there. hmm don't see it.. i am sure there are at least a couple on this.. there used to be one about easy changing your own ATF.. hmm.. bump them up if you come across either.. What is so bad about the Cooler that came with the Vehicle ? Smaller area ?A radiator is a radiator is a radiator...no? Why would the stock radiator get plugged easily versus these after market things ? bad design.. the baffles are too tight.. the other thing that happens is that nissan recommends 30k ATF change interval (i think) and who really does that.. most never change it until it blows up about 100k... that's what i did.. so once the cooler gets plugged then all your issues quickly shift to the trans itself.. i saw the atf looking crappy in the morning.. the truck didn't make 100 mi.. maybe 60 or so.. i tended to check the oils on that truck pretty often.. at least a couple times a week, i'd say... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 I don't go off road.DoctorBill Don't worry, your in good hands now....we will help you through this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 we got'm in the net. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 How difficult was it to remove everything in front of the radiator so you could install the cooler ? Everything on my '95 4x4 Pathfinder is so damned tight a fly couldn't walk around in there! I need to do the Timing Belt at which time the AT Cooler would be good to add... DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 many have it on the inside.. but i think you'd also have to switch to an electric fan just because of the room. the front plastic piece comes off in just a few 1/4 turns of a few plastic attachment "screws".. there is 6 or 8 of them.. just have to look close.. they are in square holes, irrc. when my AT was fixed the also put the aux cooler.. it was attached to the front of the AC "rad" and down low.. i doubt they removed anything up front... maybe the bumper.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 How difficult was it to remove everything in front of the radiator so you could install the cooler ? Everything on my '95 4x4 Pathfinder is so damned tight a fly couldn't walk around in there! That is the front of a 95 4x4 Pathfinder... Like MZ said, the grill comes off in a few minutes and you may want to loosen or remove the front bumper, also not hard at all. I relocated mine when I installed a body lift so far more was removed than was needed, but made it real easy... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 Well I know for sure at -53 degrees Celsius that your Power steering pump, and Transmission SCREAM bloody murder. Definitely not good for the pump when that happens. Glad I'm out of that place to never return. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyril Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 The job is simple mate , X 2 as everyone else has said . The auto will pump the ATF around the system good enough to cool it right and if not try a fan on the cooler . As for winter time you could run a small section of brass line closer to the exhaust system to help with warming the ATF up . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 (edited) No need to warm it back up. I've had mine in with temps around -20 celcius, and never had issues. The only issue I've found is it takes a little longer in the winter for the torque converter lockup to engage. Other than that, it's just fine. I'm using a 20k GVW model. My fluid was almost black when I bought the truck, and I had that changed and installed my cooler in short order. Edited July 2, 2009 by Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 cable ties, rubber hose, a couple of clamps and a screwdriver. Remove corner lights, front grill and have at it. No need to remove the bumper. Put the cooler in front of the radiator. There is plenty of room and you want max air flow to it or you are defeating the purpose of having one. My lines are routed through an opening beside the headlights. Make sure you don't pinch them and restrict the flow. A small length of hose and a couple clamps and you can put a loopback on the stock cooler to keep it from leaking (good idea even if you drain it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 get the biggest cooler you can afford. mine has been fine in the winter. i have a body lift so that may have made it a bit easier. most of the good kits come with an assortment of clamps, brackets and hardware. I think mine was made by mr. transmission Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 here's a good thread to read about tranny coolers http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6486 it will give you some more info about installing one make sure it doesn't move around when you attach it to the radiator. it should be nice and snug, but not crushing anything. If it's loose, it will wreck the radaiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 A small length of hose and a couple clamps and you can put a loopback on the stock cooler to keep it from leaking (good idea even if you drain it) Yes, definitely a good idea. I forgot to plug one side and splattered ATF all over first time I drove it... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 I just today bought a "High Performance Transmission Oil Cooler - No 514" made by HAYDEN Automotive for $55.99 at Schucks. 0.75 Inch Thick, 7.5 Inch x 15.5 Inch (12 inch core) with screw-on fittings. http://www.haydenauto.com/Featured%20Produ...rs/Content.aspx I will install it when I replace the Timing Belt - that is, when I receive the TB Kit from Courtesy Nissan in 10 days via UPS Ground. I hope I haven't bitten off more than I can chew...... DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 That looks good. Probably what I should get. I should really get around to installing one. Though my auto trans has seemed to make this far with no external cooler. I have 170k ish miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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