All Activity

Hello everyone I’m planning to do a trans cooler mod on my Pathfinder. mostly for off roading/towing a trailer. I’d really appreciate some advice. I live in a hot country most of the year during summer, it hits about 50c (122f). I have about three months of nice weather around 15c (60f) for dune off roading. I added an OEM cooling fan (from another Pathfinder) alongside the existing one, so now I have two fans in front of the condenser and radiator. Because of that, I’m hoping to go with a flatter trans cooler if possible. If anyone has a parts list or specific recommendations, that would be fantastic. also, I’ve also seen some mention of a filter would you say that’s essential? Any other tips or things to watch out for would be really helpful. Thanks so much.

was trying to get the front end straightened out last night. i think i may have to run 2 sets of camber bolts. These 2in 4x4parts springs are pretty damn stiff. im hoping they relax eventually. i removed the sway bar and tried to get it to flex a little so i could get the cv axles out and that was a problem haha. had to hammer them out being they were hitting the lower control arm from so much droop.

Hell yeah. Looks good brother. Hope the rest goes smoothly for you

well got it all on the ground yesterday and drove it around. gotta get the alignment done, new tierods, rack bushings and possibly another set of camber bolts. I have everything in the garage but just ran out of time. Also front diff isnt in since pinion seal is trashed and i think its leaking behind the passenger axle. may just source another diff from the junk yard. Otherwise it drives around! just got to get these AC coils and 9446s to settle in and well be good! https://imgur.com/3XhUaw5 https://imgur.com/6QKYQiV

Mine is 6" sfd. It has been holding up good. I drove 5400km across Canada last fall from b.c to n.s with it on a fishing/camping trip. Going to drive back to b.c in the summer. Might put the sway bar back on for safety. I can't upload pictures to the forum

The o2 sensors are so cheap, I'd just replace it if you're unsure of it's age/status. Make sure the timing is correct, as well as egr, etc is functioning correctly. I hated doing this test when they had it here, would always fail and make me waste hundreds of dollars.

SFD is here and ive got it all tore down ready to drop the Subframe. Gotta figure out the best plan of action to do it by myself but i think i have an idea. Ready to get this thing on all 4 and on the damn road lol heres a link. couldnt resize it https://imgur.com/dYYVLJ2

So hows this thing doing since the 4in SFD? just got mine yesterday and tearing into it. basically going to be the same exact set up

ordered up a set of 9446s and got them on. Brought the back up a bunch thank goodness. Tracking shows the SFD will be here today so im super excited for that!

So it's going back and forth between good and high? The mixture's actually supposed to bounce back and forth a little when it's in closed loop, that's how it controls the mixture with a narrowband oxygen sensor. Maybe the sensor's on its way out and it's responding very slowly? There is a test mode for the oxygen sensor, might be worth running that to see if the light's flashing like it should. Some codes don't trip the light, so I'd run those too on the off chance.

I'm hoping someone can help me out. I went to get a smog check and the HC's were good then they went high. Good then high. The guy doing the smog said it would likely fail, so he didn't do the test. There was a light popping out of the exhaust as well. I believe it's unburnt fuel that is causing the issue? I have done recently, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, oil change. I pulled 1 plug and it looked lean. The electrode was pretty white in color. I have a different MAF and it didn't change how it ran. Yes it's used, but I figured I would try it. It starts up great, no issues there. I have not tried to pull any codes. No check engine light, so I'm expecting no codes to be present.

I picked up a 2017 S at an auction and have been working on it to become my new daily driver replacing my 05. There are spots in the front bumper that look like they are built to either be filler or able to accept fog lights (with knocking out the circle in the middle). My question is, does anyone know how universal they got with the wiring harnesses in the 2017's? If I pull the bumper cover or dig down near those inserts, will I find a harness hookup for the foglights (as if this were an SV, SL or Platinum) or will I need to do some wiring as well?

Thanks guys will do this come the weekend.

70 ft-lbs is just to seat the bearing fully, not the final torque spec. Snug it up, rotate the hub, loosen the nut completely (do it twice if you're not sure it's seated). I like to also give the hub a few love taps with a dead blow when it's snugged up. After it's loose, "tighten" 4.3-13.0 inch pounds (same emphasis as Slartibartfast that it's about 1 foot pound max, not 13 nor 70 foot pounds). The nut is just barely against the bearing cone, and the lock washer and screw are what prevent it from backing out. Even with a short distance, it was probably extremely harsh on the bearings. They're probably fine, but personally I'd be pulling everything back apart, degreasing them, and visually inspecting them before putting it all back together. Or, just address the tightening issue and let'r ride.

Quite weird!! Thanks! You're THE best!!! Next time, I'll try to grow taller

The torque spec for the bearing lock nut is 4.3-13 inch pounds--just enough preload to get the play out of it, plus what it takes to get the screws in. Sounds like you ran yours at roughly 70x their intended torque. I've never run a bearing that tight, but yeah, I'd lay money that's your problem. I don't think I'd trust that set of wheel bearings to go again.

I replaced the front brakes, rotors,bearings and calipers this past week. Here’s my question. When I tightened the the spindle nuts I torqued them at 70lbs and backed them off a little to put the lock nut on with the two small screws. After torquing I spun the wheel back and forth and it spun easy. When I drove it a short trip total five miles and got back to the house I noticed my front wheels were hot as hell to touch. In the FSM it says after torquing to 70 ft lbs to turn hub in both directions and then loosing spindle nut to 0 ft lbs then torque to 13 ft lbs turn wheel hub several times then torque to 13ft lbs. then check axle end play. I wasn’t able to check axle end play and didn’t loosen hub nut after I torqued it to 70 ft lbs. would this be causing my rotors and wheels to get extremely hot being it’s torqued to around 70 ft lbs? I pretty much skipped the second step. Any help would be appreciated.

That's a weird one. Wonder if someone popped a fuse somewhere else and "borrowed" it? Glad to hear it was a cheap/easy fix!

Let's start with your guidance of #52 fuse 7.5 -grabbed a cinder block so I can get a better view with me being height challenge and all -the diagram says there should be a fuse there, there are receiving connectors there, but there is no fuse! oooooohk! So i temp borrow the fuse from alt, also 7.5 and test the horn -it's a cheap miracle! How did this happen? I know I had worked in a place that I was not everyone's favourite, but not an area where I would panic if I forgot to lock my vehicle, so maybe then? No answers. I feel gey and retarded. Such a cheap remedy! I did check fuses before, but I just didn't take a headcount to what the cover says should be. I got the clock spring as a genuine Nissan part from UAE for it was the cheapest, so obviously, my college education was further proof that sometimes, I am not the sharpest tool in the shed. I truly appreciate you taking the time to research and guide me. That first clue of yours of #52 is what caused me to pay closer attention, your efforts did truly benefit me! Yes, the cruise control is also back on the menu. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! God bless you!

I've had a heavy duty clutch in mine for 20 years, and I am just rebuilding my engine as we speak. I am opting for a stock replacement clutch as the HD gives a heavy pedal, and as I get a bit older, I am ending up with a sore knee if I am in heavy traffic. The factory clutch is more than adequate unless you treat the car with contempt.

SFDs retain stock suspension, steering, and front driveline geometries. They are intended to drop the subframe and all components a static distance; since everything's on the subframe, everything should be retained for the most part. There are some subtle nuances, like potentially still needing camber bolts, having to rotate the steering rack a little, and changes in the front driveshaft angle...but nothing that impacts daily drivability. As Slart explained it, it's basically a body lift, except for a subframe.

My (limited) understanding of the SFD is that it's basically the unibody equivalent of a body lift. Suspension lifts mess with the front end geometry, and cause more problems the higher you go. IIRC the R50 gets unhappy if you go past about 2" of suspension lift. A body lift or SFD leaves the geometry alone and just shims the body up over the existing suspension. So apart from the higher center of gravity (which you'll get from any lift), I wouldn't expect the SFD to make much difference to the handling and alignment--or at least it'll work better than it would if you tried to lift it the same amount by modifying the suspension.

to an extent i would say yes, but at the same time no. Yes because you are changing the physical geometry of where everything sits, No because its all being moved the same amount. alignment will need to be done to correct any issues but drivability should remain the same

Question, does a sfd affect alignment and everyday drivability?

Yes a OEM Nissan replacement clutch kit would be nice but that can be a bit pricey. I'm currently running an aftermarket heavy duty clutch kit from Clutch Max Pro https://amzn.to/4qRWyXw I tow my wife's 6X10 Cargo Trailer Camp Conversion with my R50, and do some off-roading every now and again too. I've been running this setup on my 2001 R50 Pathfinder 4X4 for the past 3 years with zero issues. As for gear box itself, if you can find the parts to rebuild it I say go for it, you can also try checking your local junkyard to see if you can find a used one. But they are very rare and hard to find since the manual transmission was only available from 2001-2002 for this gen R50. I've only come across 3 examples in my local junkyard here in Las Vegas in the last 5 years.