Repairing rust spots?

[Harbinger]

How would I start repairing the spots of rust on my rig? Theres a spot under my rear seats that I need to take care of, and a few other spots over the length of the truck.

Edited March 4, 2005 by Harbinger

[88pathoffroad]

Either cut them out and weld in new metal, or use POR-15 to re-coat the rusty spots. Either way, you're going to have to wire-wheel or sand a lot of rust off. Phosphoric acid also works on areas you can't physically reach to sand or wire-wheel. It's available at a hardware store as a rust remover/dissolver. Beware, that acid is nasty stuff, makes steel look like etched glass after a while.

[Harbinger]

Where can I find POR-15?

[MrBuddha]

Where can you find POR-15? In the auto parts stores or the home improvement stores?

 

The only rust treatment I could find at the auto shop was a bottle of Perma-tex Rust Treatment, but don't really know how good it is. Anyone have experience with this stuff? The product description states that it "destroys" old rust and dries to a durable black polymer coating. Application is pretty simple; you just brush it over the rust spots.

 

URL: http://www.permatex.com/products/prodidx.a...m&item_no=81775

 

http://www.permatex.com/products/prodidx.a...m&item_no=81756

 

Thanks in advance for the feedback! :cool2:

-MrBuddha

Edited March 4, 2005 by MrBuddha

[94extreme]

you still want to de-rust all the loose stuff. that kind stuff works great though.. i used a different brand but it looks good and seems to do what it says..

[Precise1]

Pretty much the same as above... Not being a rust preventitive conniseur, I do know that you want to remove as much old rust as possible via wire wheel. scraper, etc. Permatex works well when I have used it, but POR15 is a GOOD brand name and can be counted on... Start scrubbing

 

B

[Grumpy]

I've tried some of the rust cures, and some impress me. "Rust Mort" seems to do good job, but it is extremely toxic. I bet many other brands work well too. When you're done, the stuff sets up like a very tough plastic coating, which should prevent further corrosion. The frame sections of the 94s over the rear wheels seem to need a little help if you run in the salt. If you catch 'em early, I believe you can save the frames.

[oilman]

Where can I find POR-15?

I dont think its sold in stores, try looking it up onlinepor 15

DONT get it on your skin, unless you want a tattoo for about a week and a half.

buy the small cans even if you want alot, the cans dont seal well once opened, and the whole can will dry solid in a day with even the slightest air leak.

and yes its worth the money!

 

if you actually have rust holes under through the body you will have to cut the rusted metal out and have new pieces welded in.

[madhatter_xe]

It depends on where you live, there are a few local shops around here that sell it and this is Canada!

 

You should call around to some local auto-paint and body supply shops before getting tagged with shipping costs. Here is a list i came across, has some US locations too:

 

http://www.por15canada.com/can/dealerlist.htm

[milehighcowboy]

i have a bad rusty hole under my back seats. i was thinking of cuttig out the rust and then putting a piece of alluminum sheeting over it and riviting it then spraying on some truck bed liner. under and in the cab? what you all think will it work? also how the hell do you guys get the mud out from undernieth the truck? just crwal under and spray away? also is it safe to spray my engine down with a high power washer? to remove mud. my engine compartment is caked in mud. thanks. dpotn mean to highjack.

[Oliver]

If you go the POR-15 route don't remove the lid from the can.

 

Instead punch 2 small holes (1/8") on opposite sides of the lid. This will allow you to pour the paint from the can and then you can seal it up with a couple sheet metal screws. Easier to re-open later on too. I did this on my old Volvo about 3 years ago and the paint is still liquid inside.

 

Also, be sure not to scrape all the rust off the truck. POR-15 needs surface rust to bond and create a hardened finish. Just scrape the loose material off and give it a wash with "Marine Clean" before you paint over it.

 

[LD50]

I'm buying some of that stuff right away! can it be painted over? I would like to treat the spots around my fenderwells, but black doesnt match the red finish of my pathfinder very well

[nige]

here is my post about the same problem. you might find some useful info in there:

 

skrilla's rust repair

 

now that I think about it, it may have been easier to use self-tapping screws to hold the new plate on there instead of messing around, drilling holes for pop-rivets. I still have to fix the hole under my heel in the floor pan where the exhaust joins the collecter pipe. Harb, if your truck is rusting under the rear seats, chances are it's also rusting out by the exhaust. Pull up the carpet and have a look down there. If the heat-absorbing/sound deadening pad is wet, you probably have a hole in the body there. If you can't find that POR-15 stuff, you can use Naval Jelly like I did. That stuff seems to work really well if you put a couple of layers on. You have to rinse it off with water after about 15 minutes of exposure and all the rusty spots should turn white when it works. Take care not to get it on your hands or breathe the fumes in, and make sure you wear a mask and goggles while you grind the old flaked rust off. it's not good for your lungs to breathe in paint particles.

 

Underneath the rear seats, there are 2 pieces of overlapping sheetmetal. Salt and dirt gets stuck between them and because it's a difficult spot to hit with a car wash, that's how the rusting starts. After you cut out the metal, make sure you clean them out really well with a stiff, long bristle brush and plenty of soap adn hot water before your paint over anything, otherwise you'll be doing this again in a couple of years.

[nige]

i have a bad rusty hole under my back seats. i was thinking of cuttig out the rust and then putting a piece of alluminum sheeting over it and riviting it then spraying on some truck bed liner. under and in the cab? what you all think will it work? also how the hell do you guys get the mud out from undernieth the truck? just crwal under and spray away? also is it safe to spray my engine down with a high power washer? to remove mud. my engine compartment is caked in mud. thanks. dpotn mean to highjack.

i'd use steel as it's cheaper. Crawling under your truck with the pressure washer is the best way to get rid of all the caked on mud and salt. It's a good idea to stick the nozzle of the washer inside each hole in the frame and give it a good blast until you see clear water running out (beware, sometimes there is old dirt in there that is so rock-hard it doesn't even budge. i still havent found a good way to get that stuff out of there besides stabbing it with screwdrivers).

 

Refrain from spraying the engine with a pressure washer. They send water into places that normal driving would never be able to (rotor, plug wires, relays etc.) The best way to clean your engine is by hand with a brush and some good degreasing soap. You can rinse it off with a hose, but you might need to re-lubricate some parts aftewards. Try not to get the alternator too wet and let everything dry out before you start it up.

[radar]

Whatever you end up doing, make sure you wear eye protection, that rust will fly everywhere and is a bugger to get out of your eyes, same for the rust traetment. I was putting some acid treatment on a spot on my floor with a small paintbrush and it flicked a drop into my eye as I was brushing it on, hell of a thing to run with one eye clamped shut for that laundry sink, thankfully I was close enough that no harm done.

[milehighcowboy]

ok cool thanks guys. the only reason i said aluminum is because i have a few piecs laying around form the previous owners of my house. part of an underlaying for house siding. will it rust longer or no diff?