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Front And Rear Main Seal

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Just started working on my 94' Pathfinder SE with a V6. 200,000 + Miles. Front and Rear main Seals are leaking a lot.I know I can leave the engine in for the front seal. an I have to remove the trany (Auto)for the rear. I was thinking it might be easyer just to pull the motor, that way I can check the oil pump gasket and pan gasket without laying on the ground. Any thougts or sugjestions woul be greatly appreached.

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hey, if you have the tools, time, and skills to remove the engine successfully, I say go for it....that way you can give it a full look over, including things like timing belt, gaskets, exhaust studs, and clean it up all perty like...

 

 

But, if you are unsure you're able to handle it, I'd avoid it at all costs. Better to have an engine in and have a harder time than get it out and not be able to get it back in..

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When removing an engine, I have always found it easier to pull the engine and transmission together. mainly because it's sooo much easier to mate the transmission to the engine with them both sitting on the ground.

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Having done the rear before without pulling it, I would say next time I would pull the entire motor. Much easier long term and like mentioned you can look it all over and work on other things easier at the same time.

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Just started working on my 94' Pathfinder SE with a V6. 200,000 + Miles. Front and Rear main Seals are leaking a lot.I know I can leave the engine in for the front seal. an I have to remove the trany (Auto)for the rear. I was thinking it might be easyer just to pull the motor, that way I can check the oil pump gasket and pan gasket without laying on the ground. Any thougts or sugjestions woul be greatly appreached.

Check with TerranoNZ He is doing the rear seal as we speak. He will let you know=w the inns and outs of the process.

Edited by kiwipete

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Thanks all for the replys. I'm clearing out my garage this weekend so i can park inside. Start on pulling it out next week. Sounds like Ill be pulling the trany also. I wasent shure if it would be to long to clear. I'm sure it will come out just fine if you all did it. Thanks again. My wife thanks you to, No more spots in the driveway!

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Personally, I'd leave the tranny in, just move it back a little for wiggle room. I haven't pulled an engine yet, but I recall people advising removing the radiator, fan clutch and still some claimed they had to drop the front differential to clear the oil pan...

 

B

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Man, I need to do this too. I am leaking so much dang oil it is ridiculous. Its almost like all the lower seals and gaskets are non existent. Frustrating as it is my daily driver. I have pulled and built and put back in many a motor, but not on a 4wd pathfinder...I know there is a ton of wiring and tubing and other junk hooked up, almost like a brand new car...

 

Oh well, one of these days I just need to do it...maybe rebuild the whole thing while I am at it...anyone wanna help? I will supply whatever you drink...hahahaha

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Have you checked/fixed all the easy stuff like valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, etc?

 

B

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When removing an engine, I have always found it easier to pull the engine and transmission together. mainly because it's sooo much easier to mate the transmission to the engine with them both sitting on the ground.

You've done this on a Pathfinder? I want video :D

 

Check with TerranoNZ He is doing the rear seal as we speak. He will let you know=w the inns and outs of the process.

:D Yes sadly. I went with hauling the engine out, seemed easier. BTW when you pull the rear main out, clean off the oil and let it sit for a while you may find what I did. Sump gasket leaking too.

See pic #2.

Do you have the FSM? You don't need to drop the front diff as you've got an auto, just unbolt the torque converter through the starter hole :aok:

Feel free to PM me if you need anything else :beer:

Also get one of these in 14mm for the bell housing bolts, they are GOLD http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=5028&group_ID=545&store=&dir=catalog

I intend to make one out of a cheap ratchet spanner :aok:

 

DSC01946.jpg

 

DSC01948.jpg

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You've done this on a Pathfinder? I want video :D

 

 

:D Yes sadly. I went with hauling the engine out, seemed easier. BTW when you pull the rear main out, clean off the oil and let it sit for a while you may find what I did. Sump gasket leaking too.

See pic #2.

Do you have the FSM? You don't need to drop the front diff as you've got an auto, just unbolt the torque converter through the starter hole :aok:

Feel free to PM me if you need anything else :beer:

Also get one of these in 14mm for the bell housing bolts, they are GOLD http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=5028&group_ID=545&store=&dir=catalog

I intend to make one out of a cheap ratchet spanner :aok:

 

DSC01946.jpg

 

DSC01948.jpg

thanks I got all my parts now i can start.I was wondering why the Haynes book said to drop the front diff. thanks again. After this hopefully I can contribute some info. Let ya know how my knuckles look after I'm done.

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cool tool! I would have never thought of it!

 

Here's when I did my rear main. I dropped the Transmission as I was putting in another one. You MUST replace the pan gaskets. The rubber gaskets shrink and become brittle with heat and age. If you don't replace the gasket, you'd be hating yourself later on down the road to see it leaking if it hasn't already.

 

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DSCN3946.jpg

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Interesting...I have done rear mains with the tranny out and engine in, but not on a pathfinder, or a Nissan for that matter. I would feel more comfortable pulling the motor and running through it anyways. Chiltons makes reference to dropping front suspension components as well, wonder why, especially if you dont have to.

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some people have trouble clearing the front diff when removing the engine.

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some people have trouble clearing the front diff when removing the engine.

Must be either for people who can't figure out how to disconnect the torque converter (I was one) Or for those clutch jobbies :D

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