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Bax03SE

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Bax03SE last won the day on March 17

Bax03SE had the most liked content!

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About Bax03SE

  • Rank
    NPORA Fulltime Resident

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2003 SE, small lift, lots of maintenance
  • Place of Residence
    Delaware
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    2003

Profile Information

  • Location
    Delaware
  • Country
    United States

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  1. If you already have spacers, and add springs, your overall droop and hence risk to the CV’s is still the same. When you do a spring lift, you’re just partially extending the strut within it’s travel range, so there will be less down travel left before it bottoms out but it won’t extend any lower than it does now. Hopefully that makes sense? With that said, there are two things to consider. Alignment could become more of an issue, but that’s easily fixed with a set of camber bolts. And if you don’t have manual hubs, then the increased lift will add a little more stress to the CV as it will always be riding around at more of an angle than it does now. The maximum droop won’t change but the static angle at ride height obviously will. Personally, I’d leave the 1 inch spacers, plan on camber bolts, and get manual hubs if you don’t already have them.
  2. Yep, I trimmed the inside of the flair, the bottom of the plastic fender liner, and used an angle grinder to take off a couple inches of metal from the bottom front edge of the fender. If you’re just getting a little rub that you can live with, I agree it may not be worth worrying about. In my case, the combination of larger tires and high offset wheels meant there was no way in heck things would fit without cutting. It wasn’t just rubbing, it was full on binding up against the fender when turning.
  3. Oh....sorry for never addressing the original question on this thread, but I would totally buy the Nexan Roadian pro, I almost bought that same tire a couple years ago, even going so far as to have a set mounted up. The reviews on them are really good and they looked great in person. The only reason I decided not to purchase them is because I was really trying to get tires that fit a certain “look” that I was after, and I decided I just wasn’t going to be happy with anything other than a mud tire.
  4. Looks really good! I like the subtle approach. That area behind the wheel is where I had to do the most trimming when fitting 33’s. The pinchweld sits further back and really isn’t an issue. It’s the actual lower edge of the fender that sticks out. Pardon the crude drawing, but this pic gives an idea of what I had to remove from the lower fender. It’s barely even noticeable unless you’re sticking your head into the wheel well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Btw, cost is at about $145 so far for the springs and spacers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I mentioned this in another thread but figured I’d share a teaser of what I’m working on next. It’s either going to be awesome, or an epic fail...lol! With the addition of the tube bumper, and plans for a winch in the near future, I need to finally upgrade from the stock springs up front. I considered ordering the OME HD’s, but I like to be different and decided to experiment a bit. I’ve been doing a lot of research on sites that supply parts for race car builders and have a lot of components for building custom suspension set ups. I settled on these springs And the plan is to pare them with this adjustable spacer on the bottom strut perch. Since the stock springs are wider at the bottom than the top, and the aftermarket springs aren’t, I went with springs that should fit the top strut mount and the adapter should take care of the problem of being a bit too small for the bottom mount. I’m going to keep the 2 inch strut spacers I already have, so my plan is to use this combo more for increased load capacity and not necessarily set it up for much more lift. But, if my calculations are correct, than this spring and adjustable spacer combo should able to provide up to 2.5-3 inches of lift without spacers. I’ll update this when I get time to actually dig into it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Honestly the missing link does very little. It’s one of those things that is so cheap and easy that there’s just no reason not to do it, but it’s not a game changer. If anything it does tighten up the handling a little bit. I 100% think all R50’s should have it because it’s that easy, I just don’t want anyone to get false expectations on what it will do.
  8. To add just a little to Micah’s response regarding spacer lifts, he’s right that it puts the CV at greater risk of damage. With my 2 inch spacers (which yield approx 2.5 inches of lift), they definitely start to bind up at full strut extension. Meaning if it is lifted all the way to the point of the wheel hanging off the ground. This really isn’t a problem at all on the street, and if you’re mindful off road and take it slow it isn’t that big of a deal, but it is definitely a legitimate concern that does not come into play with spring only lifts.
  9. Everyone has pretty much nailed it. For a lift within the 2-2.5 inch range there really isn’t much concern. Upgrade all of the usual wear and tear items on the front end like ball joints, bushings, and sway bar links at the same time as putting in the lift and you should be in good shape to not deal with any failures for quite some time. And definitely budget for manual hubs. Being able to fully disengage the hubs when you don’t need 4wd makes the CV angles almost a non issue at least for regular street driving. I personally couldn’t be happier that I lifted my R50!
  10. Depending on how high you are lifting, and also on if you have camber bolts or not, I’m not even sure the angled strut spacers are completely necessary. For example I already have 2 inch spacers and am getting ready to add HD springs to get another inch or two. Since lifting via the springs only works within the existing travel range of the struts, it doesn’t change the CV angles at full droop any more than what it already is with just the spacers. Since I have camber bolts already, I have no concerns with getting the alignment in spec. At that point the only benefit of the SFD is to save the CV angle because the lift will have already been accomplished through the spacers and springs. So if I end up doing a SFD down the road I’ll probably leave the struts as is instead of changing to the different spacer type. The bolts that hold the sub frame in have about half an inch of extra thread on them as is, so I think for the short term I’m going to just add some shims. Half an inch may not be much, but I figure every little bit that helps protect the CV from binding on the trail can’t hurt.
  11. There are different spring rates and lengths available, but it’s not quite that easy because the stock front springs on the R50 are tapered. They are a larger diameter at the bottom than at the top, which really limits the use of universal springs because most universal springs are equal diameter top to bottom. That’s how I decided I could get a spring that would fit the upper mount, and use an adapter at the bottom to open up my spring options. Since I already knew I needed an adapter, I figured it made sense to make it adjustable at the same time.
  12. I’m actually in the middle of an experiment right now for my front springs. I’ve been scouring websites that supply custom parts for race cars because they have a ton of options for people who are building their own suspension components. I settled on a spring with a 250 lb rate and a free height of 13 inches. 250 puts it in between the OME and AC coils which is what I’m looking for. I chose the 13 inch spring height ( 3 inches shorter than the OME hd) because I’m pairing them with an adjustable height spring spacer (similar to the way a coil over sleeve works) that I plan to adapt to the lower spring perch on the strut. If it all comes together as planned the adjustable lower perch will let me dial in my front ride height exactly where I want it. Total cost so far is $145 for the springs and spacers. Hopefully I’ll get time to work on it next weekend and I’ll update with results then.
  13. Thanks. I don’t want to thread jack this, but I’ll say I checked out the Facebook page a little and came the conclusion it really wasn’t for me...no offense at all to anyone who likes and uses it. Regarding SFD, I feel confident that anything Towndawg and Hawairish put out would be safe and well engineered so I’ll probably hold off for that for now.
  14. With temps in the mid 60’s today, it was finally time to take my summer toy out for a drive for the first time since Thanksgiving! She started right up and seemed happy to stretch her legs a bit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I don’t know how it varies from year to year, but on my 03 there isn’t a breather tube on top of the diff, just a stubby breather cap/fitting with no tube. Also there is more than enough slack in my brake lines that they don’t pull too tight even at full droop. This is with LR 9449 springs and extended shocks for an F250. If you have a later model R50 it seems you can go pretty high in the back without needing to mess with the brake lines.

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