onespiritbrain

I have started getting ready to replace my carpet after I went for a swim in the deep end. I plan to go to pull-a-part tomorrow to find a new carpet. I snapped a couple pics to show you guys how bad it really was.. Thanks PO.. Yep so I really want to find black carpet but I'll settle for anything clean! Also tomorrow I'm going to get my black center caps and black lugs! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude I'm glad you got it!!! How was rebuilding the distributor? I'd like to do the bearings in mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well it looks good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is that OD green plasti dip?!? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Add guns and ammo Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tipping point Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My issue has persisted with an entire different engine so I would definitely say that the MAF is likely our problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like bad MAF or injectors.. I would lean toward MAF. I have a lesser form of your same issue. Finicky until EXACTLY 3k RPM then it opens up and takes off like a rocket(bottle rocket...) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mad Max Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's these theoretical trails that I want to be able to blaze. We need thorough undercarriage armor and a tight front bumper/brush guard. Also a good chainsaw is a must. And our diffs will need to be locked up as I suspect sharp inclines with very loose top soil and debris will abound. I wish I lived near the Rockies... you're blessed to be in such a beautiful place. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like it. Can you take a pic from further back please? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey dude, so you had to beef up the springs to get rid of the camber issue? I was thinking about grabbing some camber bolts to fix my issue but I'd MUCH rather keep the original geometry if possible. So the hd springs completely resolved your camber issue after getting larger tires? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I have the same issue... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you determine which bearing might be making noise? Take a long screw driver or a long extension and use it to listen to the front of the compressor and then the rear. If it's the front bearing then I think, even if it is said to be unserviceable, you can replace the bearing. Same may be true for the rear.. and also the clutch bearings. Unless it is welded together then you can get in there. 9 times out of 10 an extremely common bearing is selected to go in just about every application to keep part costs at a minimum. Just dig in there, pull the bearings out and take them to your local bearing shop. If there are gaskets that get damaged and you cannot source them then use RTV silicone. It would be worth a try at least.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine raised slightly above normal operating temp last summer when I was in 4LO with the A/C on full blast on a 95degF day and in tall grass. Also it should be noted that my thermostat was stuck open and it may not have been full open.. My 01 Frontier would overheat if the A/C was running while in drive thru lines on a summer day. I think fan clutch and all is juuuuuuust enough to keep the temp at normal and any little issue or any part of the cooling system that is starting to fail sends it over the edge. I would go ahead and replace the thermostat and flush the coolant while your in there. Also, while the car is off and cool, like in the morning, spin the fan with your hand.. it should spin fairly easily but have some resistance. If it has very little resistance then then your fan clutch might be on the way to failing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So sorry.. maybe everything will be alright! I am interested to know about the cause of the belt break. How tight was the belt when you replaced it 70k miles ago? Before I ruined my old engine I did the tb and I believe I over tightened the belt.. it whined with the engine RPM. I didn't make it to premature failure of the tb because, like I said, I killed the engine before it had a chance to break. Anyway, I am watching this thread to see your results. And even if you have some bent valves, maybe you could bring her back to life! I am going to pray for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you My lean code is still there after a new engine. So I've either got a faulty o2 sensor or maybe my MAF is loosing it.. I wonder if it wouldn't be easier just to go to a pullapart for the replacement MAF instead of using the Maxima MAF...? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you know which transfer case you have? What year is yours? The newer tcase that has the AWDish "auto" mode doesn't learn but maybe was slow to start working properly. I think it works by detecting slip through the output shafts on the tcase by oil pressure. Maybe the accumulators were slow to fill or something.. not sure why the characteristics of the 4wd would change the longer you drove. I think there are clutch packs in there on the newer "auto" mode tcases and stuff too.. also I think there are pressure sensors for the "auto" mode.. Has your 4wd been inactive for a long time? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am going to do it. Probably sometime in June or July.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha word man Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We did a bunch of research on the most reliable vehicles and #1 was the Toyota Land Cruiser. We couldn't find a Cruiser at a reasonable price so we started looking at the Lexus equivalent and decided on the GX instead of the LX. It still shares the same engine and transmission but is closer to the V8 Runner. We bought this thing from a private seller on CL and the POs took very good care of it! All the maintenance records were completed by the Kennesaw Toyota dealer and it has fresh LTX tires! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not at home right now but I'm pretty sure the socket needed it a 22mm. The thread size and pitch I do not know.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

She is purring like a kitten!!! There was a loud knock when I first cranked it but after an intense prayer and a quick drive it went away. I adjusted the timing by ear. It's pretty clear if it's not in the right spot.. is this sufficient?? So the engine makes a whirling noise. I've looked up worn engine bearings and I don't see whirling noises at all.. what else might this be?!? 1k thru 5k rpm sounds AWESOME! There were a bit of chirping noises as well but I redlined the engine and now that sound has disappeared.. I'm scared that I should've replaced the main bearings and rod bearing while I had the engine out... Worst case scenario; how hard would rod/main bearing overhaul be without pulling the engine? Also, I did the timing belt. Last time I did the tb there was a whirling noise that was intertwined with a midrange tone that increased frequency with engine rpm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you not use a 12 point wrench to remove the studs? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk