onespiritbrain

This is Echo Lake. All the green grass used to be covered by water but now that the lake is 8ft under full pool we have a nice area to run around and play in! This is one of my favorite spots. There are many trails through the woods that I can't manage since they were cut for ATVs. I tried once and had to back out for close to a quarter mile.. We call it Echo Lake because on a still morning the echo from a shout comes back from 3-4 distances. It's quite amazing! https://wistia001.wistia.com/medias/sk4n32bj4t Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just did some reading and I think you should check your brakes out thoroughly. Jack the front up and spin the wheels backward. Try everything you can to recreate the noise. I've got a bad wheel bearing up front but it is audible in forward and reverse equally. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Look for a quality used tire shop. I've got one close to me that buys wrecked sets of 3 and when he has a full set he sells them for about $100-$200 each. There was a $1500 set of 37's for $450 with at least 75% tread. You have to look but you can find good used tire shops.. be careful to look at all 4 tires if you find a good set. I found a couple sets that had 3 awesome tires and one typical used tire with 25% tread.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Take all the wiring off while it is still secured. You want to put the wiring back on the new alternator after it has been secured so you know you don't have loose connections. What exactly is your problem? One of the alternator bolts won't come out? Or the belt tensioner bolt isn't working? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

*cough cough fleurys cough* Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I've looked at all the drawings for the SFD 4in strut spacer with camber compensation and I don't feel comfortable my ability to follow what info and drawings there are. I have searched extensively and haven't found a good detailed "how to" for the SFD strut spacers. Does anyone know of one that I might have just missed?? Does anyone fabricate them on this forum? Can you order just the SFD strut spacers from Krypton? Thank you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used the "import" Carquest ATF in my Honda and its just fine. I used Castrol "Import" ATF in my JR50 and it's performing great. My opinion is that if it is stated to be compatible then most likely it is.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was wondering how plastidip holds up vs offroading. I've read stories about it holding up good if it is thick. Apparently it gets surface scratches but doesn't tear thru?? I would imagine needing 10-15 coats(or more) for the body or wheels of an offroad vehicle.. probably not worth it to do any more than emblems since it isn't exactly fun to paint with.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't mess with the bleeder cap after changing my thermostat. I also didn't mess with it after the timing belt and water pump. I forgot to tell you that you need to turn your heat on wide open while it warms up.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This one? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YDMQF50/ref=pd_aw_sbs_469_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NFVCB9TXK63YGKV7GAW0 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay try this: Jack the front of your vehicle up as high as you can get it. Or find a steep incline, then jack it up as high as you can get it. Just find a way to get the nose as high as possible.. Then, while cold of course, remove the radiator cap and crank the vehicle. Let it idle all the way to operating temperature while keeping the radiator topped off with fluid. I think you still have air in the system. That water control valve shouldn't cause you to loose water or overheat really.. If your not loosing water, then the water was never there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Word. Well my seeping head gasket didn't cause the coolant to boil until the later stages. The only thing it did was introduce exhaust gasses into the coolant which over pressurized the coolant system, dumping all the coolant into the reservoir. As the shg got worse the gasses began to trick the thermostat into thinking the engine was cold and overheating would happen minutes into a drive. After removing the thermostat altogether the overheating stopped for a couple months. Then toward the end the coolant was superheated so quickly that short drives weren't even possible.. Then I did the blue devil that stays in, and doesn't need to be drained. The blue devil bought me a couple more months at that point.. A herniated fire ring will only allow exhaust gasses out.. some times it is even undetectable with a leak down test because the leak only occurs at high psi. I hate coolant and hg issues... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay now your other thread has me thinking my issues are timing related. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmmmmmmmmmmm... I wonder if my timing is off now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Try tightening it first before you loosen. If you can get it to move at all, even the wrong direction, the movement will break it loose enough get it going in the right direction, sometimes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was getting 300 and 302. Now I'm getting a 2096 or 420. Not sure which one it is.. I can feel it missing when in drive, stopped, and I let off the brake. Under the bit of power passing through the torque converter at idle I can clearly feel the misses. It's harder to tell when accelerating but there's a clear difference past 3000 rpm. It's like small hesitations and sometimes even slow acceleration pulses until 3000 rpm. It's not timing either.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine does this also.. I am leaning toward a fuel injector. Idle to 3000rpm is a little bit jumpy and short of full power but 3000rpm and up is smooth and at full power.. When I first got the vehicle I got a cel which was a misfire cylinder #2. Im going to pull a part an injector soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like a seeping head gasket to me.. Drive like you are a race car for 5 minutes then smell inside your coolant reservoir. Does it smell like exhaust? SHGs often herniate the fire ring which allows high pressure exhaust gasses into the coolant system but does not let low pressure coolant into combustion. As early as you may be, a hg sealer like blue devil might work. Maybe even permanently.. I would perform a leak down test and see if you get any pressure making its way to the coolant system. Then do a coolant pressure test and then see if you get a white cloud when you start the engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I decided to dip my emblems black today.. Here's how I did it. First I cleaned everything the best I could with denatured alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Second I taped everything off. Then I started spraying. The first coat needs to be light and will look spattered. After the first coat drys for 10min put the second coat on at the same thickness from another angle. Each coat will be from a different angle to get coverage everywhere. After you hit all your angles your last coat or coats should be on the thick side. I suggest you practice your thick coats on something before you start. After all your coats are on, let everything dry for about 30min. Then remove all your masking. Then peel the plastidip you don't want away, starting at the edges near your masking. I made a little video but it's garbage due to needing two hands for the peeling process.. it cuts a perfect line by itself! So you can lay it on too thick.. I laid it on too thick and it bridged the gap between one of the letters so when I tried to peel it didn't cut a line, instead it pulled part of the plastidip from the surface of the letter. That and the texture of the plastidip looks weird close up. I laid it on just right on the emblems, but I messed the letters up pretty bad. I'm thinking about removing the letters altogether.. Finished product Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I should've welded the plate to the top of the flat bar.. the bottom would've been at the orange line and the top of the release, if I didn't rotate the gear housing, would've tucked nicely below the metal "bumper" at the green line... I may end up testing my skills with a glue bound cutting disk to slice the current welds and then move the plate up for rewelding.. I guess there was a reason I didn't paint the welds, I mean besides me being lazy. Or maybe there is a silver lining to my laziness. The philosophers will decide.. If I do I will post it up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Seriously. Also the LandCruiser 70.. I mean yeah we have more paved roads but they'd still sell them by the boat load! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unless you have a funnel and all that stuff laying around it'll cost you about $100 to do it yourself. $100 to have someone with experience do it for you isn't a bad deal in my opinion. Make sure you ask him if he is going to do a full fluid swap. A simple drain and fill isn't worth $200, even with a filter change. And honestly, unless you have a serious issue going on with your transmission eating itself alive, that filter is going to be clean as a whistle. All you need is a full fluid swap. My transmission ate itself to pieces.. there were two inch long curls of metal, metal chips galore, and metal pins all in the pan after mine tanked but there was nothing at all in the filter. It was perfectly clean. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've only ever experienced the opposite. I swapped the oil with the cooling lines in my wife's Honda, and I used store brand equivalent trans oil too, and it instantly revived her torque converter. Information that says putting the correct new oil in a transmission is anecdotal. A power flush might be a different story with a tech who is clueless but those machines are adjustable and any tech worth his salt will know to ask when the last trans maintenance was performed in addition to taking a sample of the fluid before blasting deposits loose. The best way to do it is slowly anyway. The cooling line swap was an emergency deal for me. If your torque converter really is slipping like my wife's was then yours is an emergency also.. I'll detail both procedures: Cooling line swap. (2 people - 2 hours) You need the following: 1. Two 5 quart paint mixing buckets(clear) 2. 12 quarts of the correct trans oil 3. One 5 gallon bucket 4. Something to clamp the feeding cooling line shut or a plug to stick in it 5. Zip ties 6. Paper and a pen 7. Transmission fill funnel How to: *Pre step(too lazy to change all the numbers): Bring trans to operating temperature by driving around for a bit. 1. Take loose both trans cooling lines from the bottom of your radiator. 2. Aim each hose in to one of your clear 5qt buckets. You may need zip ties to hold the hoses in place. 3. Have someone start the vehicle. One of the hoses will begin pouring trans oil. As soon as you see which one that is, STOP THE ENGINE. 4. Take notice of where the 2 and 3 quarts marks are on the buckets. Helps to mark it with a sharpie. 5. Start the engine again and let the bucket fill to the 2 quart mark, then STOP THE ENGINE. It will probably continue pouring out a bit after and you should have about 3 quarts of trans fluid in the bucket. It's okay if you have less than 3qt or a little more. Be careful not to have 4 or more quarts of oil in the clear bucket with the engine running. 6. Write down exactly how much is in the clear bucket. 7. Plug or clamp the hose. 8. Dump the clear bucket in to the 5 gallon bucket. 9. Put the exact amount that you wrote down of new trans oil in to your second 5qt bucket(the one that didn't get any oil in it at the beginning) 10. Pour the new trans fluid you measured out in to the transmission with your transmission fill funnel. 11. Repeat steps 5 through 9 until your transmission oil changes from dark red/brown/black to brighter red or until you run out of trans oil. *If you buy a bunch of trans oil you can keep going until the oil coming from the cooling line looks exactly like new oil* 12. When finished hook your trans cooling lines back up and you are done. Drain and fill(1 person - 4 to 8 days) You will need: 1. 12 quarts of the correct trans oil 2. One 5 quart paint mixing bucket(clear) 3. Transmission fill funnel How to: 1. Drive around until trans is at operating temperature. 2. Drain 3 quarts of trans oil in to your clear bucket. 3. Fill trans back up with exact amount you drained. 4. Wait until the next day or two. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 until you are out of transmission oil. Both ways work but the slow way I think is better and safer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk