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onespiritbrain

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Everything posted by onespiritbrain

  1. This differential!!! [emoji35][emoji35][emoji35] You need a tiny little jack with x,y adjustment!!!! I got it done but I am certainly not going to pass up on ranting about how terrible it was! Probably a breeze with a lift... Word Trainbrain Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. The transmission in my wife's MDX died last night... I had to get the LeSabre up to snuff or we'd be stranded... troubles come together it seems. Some might say, "when it rains, it pours".. I thought I had the issue figured out with the 3rd and 4th oil pressure sensors. Guess not! Never was an issue with the pressure sensors anyway it seems.. the 5speed A/Ts in 01-05 V6 Hondas are junk. The 4speeds weren't much better either.. The thing could've at least waited until I was finished with mine.. RANT! Anyways! I just finished with the bell housing bolts, flex plate, and starter. My dumb butt forgot the sheet metal guard that goes between the trans and engine.. I put the bottom section on but I'm not pulling the engine back out for that thing. I'll probably RTV what I can get to.. I am excited to hear this thing running again! I am kicking around the idea of buying a vacuum pump from Harbor Freight to flush and recharge my A/C instead of paying someone to do it.. I think it'll be about the same cost. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. [emoji51] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. One day I will just run out and buy a new Wrangler too! Trail rig the Nissan! Lock up the diffs and you'll go anywhere the wrangler will go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Thank you. I will absolutely be skipping the water/mud...! What I really want to do going forward is equip the front end and undercarriage to be able to plow thru brush and small vegetation. So when I come up on a mud hole I can blaze a bypass! It is almost time!!! I don't have a batt. charger so I will have to take mine to the local auto parts store. I also have to pick up a new drive belt since I had to ruin mine to torque the hb bolt. On a side note: If anyone has a 2001-2017 Honda with transmission issues, I highly suggest replacing the transmission oil pressure sensors. Did wonders for mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I think what Towndawg said to me is true.. So get everything ready minus the welding. Then use your best judgement and lightly tack the piece together. Hold your strut up there with the bracket and see if it's good or not. Then if it's bad just cut the tacks and reposition until you get it as close as possible. I don't know if you will be able to get it perfect, maybe so, but I'd plan on getting some camber bolts. Or just plan on an alignment when your done. Unless it's waaaaaaay off you'll be fine driving to the shop to get an alignment. However, I've read others reports of getting it just right and not needing an alignment. Man, I sure would be grateful if you would post what you do to get it whenever you do get it.. maybe you can be the first to put that info up and get it stickied! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Exhaust heat shielding. Could be something else, but many have been tricked by the sounds of the r50 exhaust rattles. I think valve train noise sticks around thru the rpm range. Harmonic vibration is more likely and the first thing to vibrate is going to be the exhaust heat shielding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Well... that means I am going to have to rent a timing light. Right? There is no way to time at 15 degrees without the light? And when I get the light it is basically loosing that single bolt that holds the dizzy and tweaking it slightly until the timing cover hand points to the correct mark on the hb? I will read the FSM on this for sure but that's the gist of it right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Okay so I have no way of knowing where the dizzy was in relation to the engines timing(compression stroke, exhaust) since there was no dizzy on this new engine. Here's what I did. Someone who knows please correct me if I am wrong, please. 1. I removed the #1 spark plug. 2. I rotated the engine with the hb bolt until I saw the cylinder come to a complete stop and took note of which mark on the harmonic balancer tdc actually is. It's the first white mark. The first mark is yellow, so it's the second mark but the first white mark. 3. I placed my finger over the #1 spark plug hole and rotated the engine until pressure began to build. 4. While in the compression stroke I continued to rotate the engine until the timing hand on the timing cover pointed to the first white mark(second mark, first being yellow) on the hb. 5. I removed the dizzy and turned it until the rotor points to the #1 spark plug and installed the dizzy. Please alert me if this is incorrect. I heard a tale of the pathfinder being timed to different than 0 degrees...? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I think you should keep it for trail riding and get you a new dd. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Stand still today.. last night I got the power steering pump, water pump, cam seals, front and rear seal, cam sprockets, oil pump, and oil pan finished. Do not forget to reattach the oil pickup flange to the oil pump... you'll have to rip the oil pan back off and it's not fun. The forsaken gaskets Nissan used for the oil pump and rear main seal housing are ridiculously hard to remove. It took me hours scraping at just the right angle to get them off and the rear main seal housing gasket was just terrible since the engine was mounted on the stand.. can't even imagine trying to do this with the engine in the vehicle. So my old engine is so insanely dirty that I really can't use anything on it... the timing covers on the new engine are rusty along with the valve covers so I got some rust stop black paint and I am hoping for the best. Every step of this process has involved deep cleaning. It is taking forever but I am glad I'm cleaning everything. I will say that the internals of the engine, that I can see, make me think that the previous owner(s) took care of it. If you all remember the pipe cleaners stuffed in the hoses and pipe between the valve covers when I was changing my timing belt.. I feel safe saying that my previous engine's owner(s) did not take care of it. I had some serious cold start lifter noise also.. and long idle smoking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Does it just dim down or does it flicker and dim intermittently? What brand light bar is this that you have? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Do your headlights follow suit? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. That sucks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Too late. I bet it wouldn't hurt to go over it with 1000. Surely anything is better than the gunk which was built up there before.. The rear main seal has been replaced before. I removed a National seal and I don't think that's what came on the vehicle originally. The RTV that was all over the place is from the oil pan. It doesn't have a molded/cut gasket. The oil pump gasket is stuck on the engine like epoxy. About as hard as epoxy also.. Not sure why I needed to take all this stuff apart to change out the front and rear main seals... better to do this stuff while the engine is out I guess. I am going to spend 30min or so cleaning up tomorrow night.. it has turned in to a mess! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. [emoji33] I wonder is it a good idea to sand down the shaft when replacing the rear main seal...? It looks quite dirty and grungy. Can't imagine there will be an awesome seal with the shaft like that.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Dude my feet were getting cooked even with the carpet. Granted there was a hole that went almost all the way to the metal.. I will have to figure something out on that. I may try to take my floor mats and attach some insulation of some sort to them. I'd also like to wrap the exhaust in that area or something. The heat shielding is just falling apart under there.. I've been thinking of what to do about it for a while now due to the rattling. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Yesterday I got very little done. I think mostly because I am unsure where to begin so I find other tasks that need to be done... still haven't pulled the carpet though.. Anyway with the motors mounted I began taking the harmonic balancers off first. I had a hard time removing the yard engines hb and this is why.. Luckily it punched out easily. I've read about people having to go through a lot of trouble because of woodruff keys breaking.. I wanted to show you guys just how bad the water/mud was that helped me kill my engine. You can see how deep it was at the speaker! Horrible! So the carpet is toast. I think I'm going to go with a well rated sprayable bed liner instead of new/no carpet... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. I am going to do some thorough undercarriage cleaning. I don't know if I'll get to any rubberized coating.. we basically have no salt down here in Georgia. I need to borrow a pressure washer.. So I finally got the old engine out today. It proved quite difficult.. I had to drop the vehicle almost all the way down onto the rotors to clear the radiator support. Also I had to disconnect the compressor plumbing.... no more A/C. I couldn't find anything in the rear I felt safe mounting the chain to so I used a strap which worked well. Honestly in some situations I think straps would be better than chain for coarse adjustments. I decided against wrestling these things around on the ground so I went ahead and bought a couple engine stands from harbor freight. Tomorrow I will begin breaking the engines down and putting the best parts of each engine on the new engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. If you had someone else to balance the diff while you lower it then you could do that without the strap. I picked it up pretty easy after it was down. Probably only 60-75#, I think.. The driver side gusset really was clamping this in there. Came out right away after I got it off. Hmmmmmm... that's not good. Almost ready! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Never mind... that was ridiculous. [emoji23] Seriously, what in the world?!? THIS.... FIT THRU THIS?!? Well that's finally over with. Now I have trq converter bolts and motor mounts left! She's coming out tomorrow. One more question, where are some good spots to bolt the load leveler on the back of the engine? I don't see anything except like valve cover screws.. here's some pics. I guess I may end up trying to use a strap and d-links or something.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I'm trying to get the wiring harness through the fire wall hole but I don't see how it is going to fit... has anyone figured out how? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Well I hoped I would be a little further along tonight but I am satisfied enough to call it a night.. I only spend about two hours a night to work on this. Anyways I got everything up top done except the alternator, which could be argued that it's a bottom item, either way it's still hooked up. The starter is out and the bell housing bolts are all out! thank You Jesus! Original! 170K miles I realize there are supposed to be more bolts in the bell housing than that but when I swapped my trans I upgraded to using less bolts [emoji23] I wasted some time trying to figure out how I was going to reach the trq converter bolts and got a crows foot stuck in there. I forgot that it's impossible without removing that guard.. I then realized the guard was being squished in there by the driver side gusset and I'm tired of messing around trying to reach those gusset to engine bolts so I'm taking the diff out. I think it's going to be beneficial later on since the oil sump hangs so far below it anyway, might make it hard to pull out.. Messy... [emoji51] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. It's going good so far guys. I've got most of everything disconnected from the top. Thursday I will go over the top thoroughly and then I'll move on to bottom. I dread the cps and bell housing bolts and I am hoping to unbolt the engine mounts without taking the diff out. It looks like I miiiiight be able to snake the engine out around the compressor and it's plumbing! It will work IF the engine doesn't need to come forward very far. Looks like it should be able to almost come straight up.... pre-cats.... those pre-cats might mess it all up. Oh well, it was worth trying if it doesn't work out. Have to tell everyone.. God saved me from being fired at work today! It is awesome having Him beside me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Thank you! Yes [emoji35] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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