vengeful Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 What is an EGT? I am sure I can figure it out but I will ask you...how will I know what it is running ie 14.1 or 12.5:1 ? Will the safc tell me? I am installing today--wish me luck...seems straight forward..LoL that shhh is never straight and def. not forward though huh? EGT = Exhaust Gas Temperature The SAFC might tell you, however to be sure you need to have an A/F Ratio Gauge. Hold off on getting one until you know whether the SAFC will tell you or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 Ok Peeps, Where on earth can I find a pin-out guide for the ECU? The one in the haynes manual is good, but when it says Knock sensor is white....there are 5 whites just on 1 half of the ecu harness, and its corresponding colors (in the book) do not match! I can't believe that I googled this and it is no where! Please give a hand! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmgar99 Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 Do you have the Tech manual for the R50? I have it as a pdf....but the engine control section is 9.8MB's alone! I can trie and zip it and e-mail it to you. It shows every pin on the ECM (ECCS Control Module)...is this what your looking for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 O-K dudes, so far advancing the timing has helped....you must do it the Haynes way or at least put your truck into self diag mode first...I have set my timing at about 10-11 degrees BTDC and it has responded well, though I still have a code to pull. It may be the EVAP connector again, or the reported "lean left bank". Anyone with knowledge about this chime in..injectors, lifters, head rebuilding ETC. I am looking to finish this on a good note so that all will have at least a guide to go by with these upgrades! Three Cheers to KMGAR99 for sending out to me a PDF copy of the ECU pinouts for the S-AFC install (still pending) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 As I said in my PM, if you're running lean, you're not getting the requisite amount of fuel for the supplied amount of air. There are several ways to fix this...assuming both banks are timed perfectly. In any event, you need more fuel to the engine...get a different fuel pressure regulator that allows higher line pressures, and subsequently more volume of fuel to pass through (you'll probably need to upgrade the fuel pump as well.) Larger volume fuel injectors. Here's what I did in my 2.1L 16V VW motor after I put in the 272/260 .424" lift Shrick cams. Passat W8 3.5 bar Fuel pump & pressure regulator Corrado VR6 48 lb injectors. (well, 4 of them anyhow) I don't remember who made it, but its an aftermarket Honda Civic 1.8L Vtec fuel rail. It's also running stand-alone, and it has a stroker crankshaft, hence the 2.1L. This motor pulls HARD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asrautox Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 EGT = Exhaust Gas Temperature The SAFC might tell you, however to be sure you need to have an A/F Ratio Gauge. Hold off on getting one until you know whether the SAFC will tell you or not. The SAFC wont tell him shiz unless he's got a wideband O2 in at least one manifold. At least take the truck to a reputable dyno tuning shop with experience in SAFC's. The base maps will only get you so far, and with your pre-existing lean condition, they may do more harm.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 Nismo sells a high pressure fuel regulator, however not a single other person who has installed cams has had to do even close to this amount of work to get them working correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbopath Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 You shouldn't need to mess with your injectors or your fuel pressure. The pathy injectors are large enough and the safc should let you richen it up. Pull some plugs on the lean bank and post up some pics. The bank may not be lean at all and you could have an O2 sensor screwing up. There are no base maps in the safc. Base is no correction whatsoever. You can run it fine like that. Try richening up a few of the lower rpm points around idle up 5-10%. That should smooth out your idle. From there you're going to need a wideband to see what's really going on. Richening up is pretty safe so you can mess around with the whole rpm range. You have to get into the +25% range to wash out rings. I wouldn't lean at all without having a wideband hooked up and watching the knock meter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzMattie Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 The truck runs like a bat out of haydes, idles terrible (still after a new knock sensor), clacks like train cars passing by Hi 98silver, Do you have the specs on the cams you installed? The duration may be part of the problem more duration = less vacuum. The other thing is that it clacks like a train passing by this is more than likely due to the grind of the cam. I was talking to my cam specialist today as we are trying to nut out a decent spec for my cams. you have to have the rocker bars machined so the lifters sit a little lower. What I would say that is happening to yours is the lifter is losing contact with the cam and as the cam comes back around it gives it a decent hit therefore making the clacking sound. I think that there is 2 different types of heads for our beloved pathy's one has cam blocks which need machining and the other you have to machine the rocker bars. Once we have worked out our cam specs or you want a cam ground to your specs I can get them done here and freighted to your door for alot less than $500us Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 (edited) S1 BILLET CAMS VG30/33E .440"/260 DEG BILLET FITS. GOOD IDLE, GREAT MID RANGE TORQUE. GOOD ON TURBO OR STREET NORMALLY ASP. ENGINES Ta-Da! Edited August 17, 2006 by 98silverpathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbopath Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 Hi 98silver, Do you have the specs on the cams you installed? The duration may be part of the problem more duration = less vacuum. The other thing is that it clacks like a train passing by this is more than likely due to the grind of the cam. I was talking to my cam specialist today as we are trying to nut out a decent spec for my cams. you have to have the rocker bars machined so the lifters sit a little lower. What I would say that is happening to yours is the lifter is losing contact with the cam and as the cam comes back around it gives it a decent hit therefore making the clacking sound. I think that there is 2 different types of heads for our beloved pathy's one has cam blocks which need machining and the other you have to machine the rocker bars. Once we have worked out our cam specs or you want a cam ground to your specs I can get them done here and freighted to your door for alot less than $500us The s1 cam isn't a regrind though. Wouldn't the machining be required on a head usng a reground cam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzMattie Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 That would depend on the zero point on the cam. it sounds to me that the problem is that the lifters/cam followers are losing contact with the cam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 I agree totally, the question is...is there damage associated with this phenom.? At higher RPM's it is quiet, I guess that the lifters are floating between lobes a little? SAFC is now installed, I will tune a little tonight or tomorrow...and I have all pics of the ecu and what wires you need to make it run...thanks to KMGAR and Turbopath, I have offcially conqered this!! Tuning will be slight be me and when money becomes liquid again I am going to pay a shop to DYNO me....more details tomorrow!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 NOW...I have installed the Air/Fuel Controller and just yesturday put the wideband O2 sensor with meter in and I have discovered that the truck has lost its mind!!! With the AFC you can set 1% incrememnt for every 200rpms of fuel/air and 1 minute the truck enjoys what it is getting then it throws a curve and says way way lean...all at the same RPM within 15sec. I have a feeling that the EGR is not functioning properly....as I had a Saturn that had a funny accelerastion and the same types of hesitation....this would add up to a CRAZY righ lean aspect.....soooo I guess that the path will get a new EGR in the next week...dag they are expensive (after spending $500 on electronics). I am not too upset though since I spent $300 to get the truck on DIAG at my local stealer!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbopath Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 if you don't have emissions just block off the egr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 After many moons of messing with the truck it is coming to its peak! SO FAR THIS YEAR MANTAINENCE Timing belt Tensioner Water pump Hoses (all including bypass) Accessory Belts New Vacuum Hoses Cleaned EGR port and valve Valve Cover Gaskets Knock Sensor EVAP Canister EVAP Vent valve Plugs Wires Cap Rotor Distributor Tranny and T Case Fluid (second time in 1 year--gunk removal with Lucas) UPGRADES 125a Alty from Nissan Quest 265/75/16 AT REVO's Completion of Fender Flares PIAA 520 SMR's------Now on bumper like Vengeful's--------Westin Bull bar for sale OEM Hitch ---------------------------------------------------WAAG rear bumper for sale JWT S1 Cams APEXI SAFC II AEM Wideband A/F Meter 3 12" Infinity Perfects in small sealed box 1" Memphis Studio Tweets in the front doors Blue Transparent Gauges and now the newest edition and hopefull is as well accepted as the other mods... A set of NISMO light weight 16x7 rims!! Hope the tires don't look goofy since my NEEPERS are 16x8!!? and yes I still have a slight missfire which I am leaning to a vac leak in the intake manifold! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 These rims weigh only 14 lbs each opposed to my 20+ lb Chrome Lets go Performance Path! Any ideas on the look of my tires on these wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 Those are some sweet looking wheels 98, and dam you have done alot to that pathy this year!! Good luck with finding the missfire then dyno that thing and let us all know what kinda power your pullin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OR99.5Speed Posted September 13, 2006 Share Posted September 13, 2006 (edited) What I didn't like about your truck were your old chrome wheels, they looked like hell. Now you just went from gross chrome wheels to the most beautiful and functional wheels you can put on the Pathfinder. BIG thumbs up! EDIT: The tires won't look bad at all...Just like any other 265 or whatever. A few Xterras have those wheels with the factory General Crapper 265/70-16s. Edited September 13, 2006 by OR99.5Speed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted September 16, 2006 Share Posted September 16, 2006 (edited) Here is the final guys! The latest and greatest is that I have put NGK Iridiums in and they changed nothing as of yet. I called a private shop with an ASE Mastertech and he had me bring the rig over to listen and tells me that she is shot! Kdding....his theory is that the lifter plenum needs raised by .020" to keep the lifter from bottoming out and perhaps buff some lobes on the cams. The rocker arms are too tight and this is making them bottom out the lifter and when the engine is hot, the valves are longer making this a "sticky" valve condition....so I get missfire. The reality is that with this shim stock he is talking about the truck will breathe better yet and produce more power and as long as no real dmage has occured will be more quiet than I have heard it run since I have had it (since the other lifters had a little chatter on them at 97K miles). This man says he can accomplish in 1 day and will also remove my LSV from the diff adjusting rear brakes accordingly to get my rear stopping power back...the cost??? Approx $400 He also higly reccommends that we all pull the hose from the EGR and plug the BPT vac hose so that this piece of shhhh will not lean out all of our motors. After he did this to mine the AF mixture on my meter reads much more stable and does not fluctuate nearly as wild as it did...so far this mechanic has impressed me! Wish me luck!! ..........incidently my rims came in and I hate them! They are the bronze that I feard they would be! Now I must try to sell these rims! I test fit a rim on the truck with no tire and the bronze is just no good...should I have them painted or try to get seperate rims? Edited September 16, 2006 by 98silverpathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmgar99 Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 Good luck with the mechanic...he sounds like he might know his Sh&^. As far as the rims, did you want the silver ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 (edited) What rims did you order? And sounds like you're making progress! EDIT: Nevermind I looked up a few post. My favorite rims of all time! :o Would you mind measuring the BS on them? Edited September 17, 2006 by tmorgan4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 Kmgar99---At this point---YES! I would like the silver ones...my fam and friends are saying awww just pain 'em....no way these rims are too expensive to re paint and try to explain I would just re-ebay them advertising them right and try to raise funds to get the right shh!! ....do you have silver ones?? The BS on the rims is 39mm---I just don't know what my Neepers are (BS) Kmarg99--did I already ask if you have those?? :o I would love to get this straightened out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 (edited) I'm assuming the offset is 39mm, not the BS. I'm going to do a little research and see what it will take to fit them. I'm not too familiar with offset specs, but according to my calculations it should have 5.5" of BS? Edited September 17, 2006 by tmorgan4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmgar99 Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Kmgar99---At this point---YES! I would like the silver ones...my fam and friends are saying awww just pain 'em....no way these rims are too expensive to re paint and try to explain I would just re-ebay them advertising them right and try to raise funds to get the right shh!! ....do you have silver ones?? The BS on the rims is 39mm---I just don't know what my Neepers are (BS) Kmarg99--did I already ask if you have those?? :o I would love to get this straightened out! Sorry man, i had a set on my wifes Altima, but they went with it at trade in for her new Volvo S40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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