Earth1 Posted April 17, 2006 Author Share Posted April 17, 2006 I am having some major issues getting the damn AT converter bearing off. I've broken 3 puller tools, 2 different kinds. I've beat the crap out of it to the point that it's a little deformed with no luck. In the process of swinging away with the hammer, I've struck the back of the crankshaft or whatever the flywheel bolts to. I can't find that piece in the manual, and don't even know if it can be removed. Could a couple of knicks throw the balance of that thing off? Can it be replaced easily? Any more ideas how to get the pilot adapter out? I really don't want to order a special Nissan tool, but I don't know what else to do. :furious: I want my truck back! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 Cut it out with a Dremel tool and cutting wheels? After you get one good cut through it you should be able to use a small chisel to break and deform it enough to pop out. Just gotta be careful to not cut up the crank too much. Also, if you can get a chisel on it from one side and bend it inwards, it should deform enough to come out. Just try not to beat the crap out of the crank, you don't want hammered bearings. Nissan recommends using #ST16610001 (J23907), Pilot bushing puller tool for removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted April 17, 2006 Author Share Posted April 17, 2006 (edited) Oh man I think I may have up and did it. Got that little bastard out, but I really dinged up the crank. I forgot my camera again tonight -- I'll have to get some pics up tomorrow so you guys can tell me what you think. I should have given up for the night but instead... I reached for the air chisel. It wasn't pretty. The outter edges that actually contact are barely burred but the back and the lip are a little rough. I smacked it pretty hard with the hammer and missed a few times in a fit of rage. God only knows what shape the bearings are in. For anyone who got that out with the motor in place. :bow: Just thought of someting else. Someone said I may have to shim the starter. Any trick to putting that back on, or is it as simple as bolting it up. I didn't see any type of shim when removing, but that doesn't mean there wasn't one. I also want to thank Slick. She gave me her # to call if I had any questions. I think that is really cool. Edited April 17, 2006 by Earth1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 well... here's a shagged clutch... Slick, you are mistaken.. this is a shagged clutch Oh wait.. sorry, you were talking about the surface Well that was pretty much toast too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 any time josh. glad you got it out. can't wait to see pic of the crank. i think you'll be ok, but a second opinion is always good. now that that little SOaB is out.. you can actually get on with doing the rest of the work! the smallest things are always the biggest PITA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted April 20, 2006 Author Share Posted April 20, 2006 Having trouble lining up the tranny and motor. Is it a huge pain to just take the t-case out to make more room? Or is that a waste of time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted April 20, 2006 Author Share Posted April 20, 2006 It's so close to going in. I think the splines must be off. 3 jacks, 2 jack stands and the hoist are getting everything pretty well aligned, at least visually. It seems to just not want to slide back into place. I wanted to turn the splines a little but I couldn't find a 26mm socket to turn the crankshaft, and I couldn't get a wrench to stay on. It was too late to get a socket that size tonight, so I had to call it quits with no progress. That's 2 counterproductive nights. Last night we broke the pilot bushing trying to get it in. I somehow guessed what the pop sound was, luckily. That's now 2 applications of dried RTV around the tranny flange that I've had to get off. Fun! The truck is too long to fit in the garage with the engine on the hoist and lowered in place, so for the past 2 nights we've had to pull it back up to squeeze everything in to close the garage. Somewhere along the way, or maybe it was missing for a while, the rubber seal around the throwout bearing arm throught the bell housing has dissappeared. Looks like it's goona be a nissan part, or one from the JY. I'll probably get to that later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted April 24, 2006 Author Share Posted April 24, 2006 I've always like discussions with pics, so I'll contribute for anyone interested. Old one coming out. Can't pull an engine without a pic of yourself in the bay. Can you tell which is the old and new? My enemy. The auto pilot converter. The back of the crankshaft that I effed up trying to get the auto converter out. I just ended up smoothing the contact surfaces and calling it good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted April 24, 2006 Author Share Posted April 24, 2006 The motor is in and on the mounts! I still have 3 tranny bolts to go but they are a bitch and I didn't have my air compressor yesterday for the air ratchet. Air tools are great. At least 2 of those bolts are like a '1 click on the ratchet that you can barely reach' type bolts. I had plenty of other stuff to do, so I'll get those later. It took hours of wasted time and brainstorming before I realized removing the driveshaft and tranny mount xmember was the ticket. Unbolted the front and rear driveshafts at the u-joints, and I finally had enough room to wiggle the tranny back and around to slip the motor down into place. At first I was trying to just loosen the tranny at the mount and fit the engine and tranny together. Once I got the tranny spline out of the way some, I was able to get the motor in place pretty painlessly. I bolted the engine to the mounts loosley and worked the tranny up to the engine; rather than the engine to the tranny. Man that is some hard work. I had a friend turn the crankshaft while I pushed forward on the tranny and eventually the spline gears lined up and it slid right together. Tranny and engine are engaging. I felt the tranny spinning at the rear driveshaft splines when he barred the crankshaft. I reinstalled the driveshafts and tranny and front dif xmembers. Those xmembers where not too easy to line up, especially the tranny mount. Of course this not without a hitch. Now to the problem. End of the night... ready to push the truck into the garage for the night and go home... it won't move... duh- it's in gear now. No problem, I'll put it in neutral... WAIT! Where's my clutch pedal? It's on the floor! Pedal is not engaging. :X :furious: I may have to pull the tranny out AGAIN. The only thing I can think of is that I goofed the throwout arm/spring/bearing contraption somehow. At one point the clutch pedal was depressed without an engine and the release bearing popped out. Maybe something's outta place with the arm/bearing retainer spring. Everything looked cool when I put it back on. I am afraid I already know the answer, but is there any way to diagnose why the clutch pedal won't link without pulling the tranny? The pedal has a bit of a springy resistance to a certain point, mostly it's just a limp noodle. Moving the pedal up or down doesn't affect the lever/contact bearing that goes through the bellhousing. I thought that piece moved when you pushed the pedal. Maybe it's not supposed to. Remeber, I'm a noob. I was really tired at the end of the night last night, so it's possilble that I'm missing something obvious. I'll take a look at the manual and see if something is odd with the linkage. :help: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 If the slave cylinder does not move when you push the clutch pedal, you have air in the line still. If that's the case, you'll have to re-bleed the clutch line and master cylinder, that's all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted May 2, 2006 Author Share Posted May 2, 2006 (edited) Umkay. Bled the clutch line and everything seems ok. Gonna try to start er up today! -bounce- Got the oil filter relocator on. I mounted it to the firewall just above the fender on the passenger side. After removing the cruise control box and relocating the fuel filter a little there is plenty of room. Changing oil will be a breeze now. I already have a new stock size oil filter so I'll run it for the first few and start using a larger Ford filter next change. Pics soon. Headers are on. It was a pain to get all the pieces lined up and bolted together. The angle where the crossover slides over the driver side down pipe is off a little. A design flaw- for those not going with an entire new exhaust system. The stock pipes will only move so far. I'm not happy with how low the crossover hangs. It is routed way below the crossmember and is now the lowest point on the bottom. It would definately be the first thing to get ripped off on a rock. :oops: I'll have to design a skid that will cover that now. pssd I don't why Thorley designed that to be so low. It's not like these are for a car, they're for a PATHFINDER for godsake! There is plenty of room to just make the flanges on the downpipes a little shorter. I'll ask the exhaust shop if they can chop a section out before the flanges and weld them back on to raise that piece. Is the slide over section at the crosspiece supposed to be welded together? Pics soon. The new motor had a different power steering bracket, making the belt too short. I had to swap the old bracket and the lower hard coolant tube from the oldy. Took me a while to figure out why my belt wouldn't go on. I was too pissed and tired at this point to get out the camera. The oil sensor near the starter and filter was different too. Spliced the new clip and good to go. I just need to get the fluids in and I'm ready to see if all my hard work will pay off. I've got to tell you, I'm nervous. Edited May 2, 2006 by Earth1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 typically, a slid section of exhaust will take a U-clamp rather than weld it. ... insert key... tap pedal a couple times... turn key... *click*..... turn key again.... *click* .... curse up a storm... pound on the dash... kick the cat... yell at the kid next door... turn the key again... KABOOM! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 so full of hope K9...lol. i used a u-clamp on my crossover pipe as i knew i would be pulling the motor out again sometime. it makes life MUCH easier to use a clamp... and.. the clap will be the first thing to hit the rock instead of the pipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted May 2, 2006 Author Share Posted May 2, 2006 (edited) NO JUICE! It's all your fault K9. I turned the key... nothing. I've cursed, pounded, kicked and yelled with no luck. I've tried 2 batteries, one I know for sure is good. I have no electrical- no dash, headlights, nada. I've checked and checked and checked again and don't see anything unconnected. I've pulled a lot of the connectors apart and put em back together to check the connections. The only thing I can't see well is the starter, which I may pull off soon to see if anything is weird. Ground is on the block. Any ideas? Actually there are 2 harnesses that aren't plugged but I can't find any possible place for them and I think maybe they never were attached to anything. They are both right by each other near the battery coming off the main wire group; one is blue and one is grey. They are both dirty inside like they haven't been attached for a while. Not to be mistaken for another blue connector nearby that is hooked up. The only other thing I can think is the ASCD box I took off. Maybe that is affecting something. How do I start to find the problem? I know about as much about wiring as I did about engines when I started. Clueless... Edited May 3, 2006 by Earth1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 do you have yer interlock on? lmao @ myself... i had nadda, nothing, zilch.. cuz i fergot to press down the clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted May 3, 2006 Author Share Posted May 3, 2006 I'll check the interlock but I don't see how the clutch would affect? It's not just that it won't start- there is no power at all. Anything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutz Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Not starting is one thing, but the fact that you have no power to anything suggests something more basic. I'd start with the battery and follow the flow. You mentioned that you tried a couple of different batteries, is it possible that you reversed the terminals on one of the batteries you tired and fried a main fuse (or worse?). The location of the terminals (+/-) varies on the application of the battery, so its possible that the batteries looks like the original but the terminals are opposite. I'm not sure the extent of damage that would do, if any, besides blowing fuses? Im guessing that would not be good. Other, (less likely) thought, is the factory alarm system, if you have one. after disconnecting power, you may have to reset the alarm after powering back up again, since it has, among other things a starter kill. I think you have to reset it with the key in the ignition at stage II. But that wouldn't explain why you have no power to the dash, headlights etc. Need to keep thinking.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted May 3, 2006 Author Share Posted May 3, 2006 Nice suggestions. I don't think I have an alarm. The battery was definately hooked up right because I had a hard time getting the cables to the posts while they were crossed. I don't have an elec tester, and have never used one... but I guess I'll get one and figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 my suggestion is to find out what those 2 plugs are for.. and what else did you take off that used to be plugged in? check all your fuses too. and get underneath the pathy and check you have the starter wired correctly.. that was another oopsie with me.... ok.. that was daves fault but still.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted May 3, 2006 Author Share Posted May 3, 2006 Starter wired wrong? Hmmm.. How specifically did you have it wired wrong? I can barely see anything with that thing in place. I might just take it out. I'm gonna hit up Ryan (AK9849CY) to have a look at his engine about those 2 plugs. He lives really close to where I'm working. Any fuses in the cab that could cause the failure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutz Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 that's usually the case that you can't cross the cables, but my point was that if you tried a different battery, the terminals on that battery itself may have been different/ opposite to your original battery, so it would fit perfectly on the cables but still be reversed polarity. If you look at your batteries side by side, oriented the same way, check that the polarity matches (+/-) on each one. it should be marked either on the top of the battery near the terminal, or on the side near each terminal post. also check the battery installed now, to make sure the red cable (closest to the middle of the truck,) is on the + terminal, and the black (closest to the passenger side fender) ground cable is on the negative terminal marked (-) If you have a factory alarm, you will have an alarm rocker switch in the console, on the passenger side of the handbrake. Ill have a look under my hood when my wife gets back with the pathy, its hard to try to figure out some other possibilities to check without an open hood in front of me. Nutz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutz Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 (edited) NO JUICE! Ground is on the block. Any ideas? The ground cable end is bolted to the block, but it also has to be bolted to the fender well, near the p/s reservoir for the chassis to be connected properly to the battery. Follow the ground cable from the battery. About half way down the cable it has chunk of metal with a bolt hole, which has to be bolted down on top of the fender well. There are also other smaller ground wires that connect to the fender well, and one that attached to the front exhaust manifold shield, which you would need to relocate because the headers obviously have nowhere to mount it. Check all the ground wires are securely attached. Nutz Edited May 3, 2006 by Nutz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted May 3, 2006 Author Share Posted May 3, 2006 Thanks for the ideas. I got it figured out. After looking at Ryan's truck I realized I had the fuse relay thing that's bolted with the positive terminal on the wrong spot. I had it screwed down to the fender like a ground. Screwed it to the positive post and problem solved. It runs! :cool2: It's running a little rough but I only ran it for about 15 minutes tonight. I'll try to tweak the idle tomorrow. I still have to cinch up the slide joint on the exhaust. I didn't have the shifter boot on and it stank to high heaven in the cab for the test drive around the block. It is so much louder with the headers and especially with the leak at that joint. I still need to reconnect the broken power steering plug, drain the water in the radiator and get some coolant in there, top off the oil, tighten exhaust and final adjustments with the idle. I still have some 85 oct gas in the tank, trying to decide if I want to drain that and get some higher octane or just run it and start with a fresh tank of something higher. I suppose I'll see how the new cams respond to both. I can't believe I've pulled it off! It's still too soon for gloating but the feeling of accomplishment is starting to set in. I'm getting tired of spending my evenings in the garage, and borrowing cars, and commuting back and forth. Looking forward to driving my truck. -bounce- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 YAAAAAAAAAAAAY!! -bounce- isn't it a GREAT feeling when your hard work finally pays off? :cool2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutz Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 AWESOME ! way to go! Its not to soon to have a beer and admire your accomplishments so far! Nice job. Nutz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now