ticker Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 (edited) I started to post this in the transmission cooler reviews but thought that it was probably off topic. From what I read It seems like any transmission cooler will work. I've seen a few on ebay. I'm looking at one right now off a 99 ford Ranger with a 4.0L engine. ??? Besides the cooler do you just need hoses and clamps to connect it up? thanks in advance ticker Edited March 1, 2006 by ticker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 word is to completely bypass your stock one. Don't just put an external in-line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinker Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 And make sure you use line specifically made for transmission fluid - emissions or fuel line will deteriorate rather quickly when exposed to ATF. Usually available at your favorite auto parts supplier... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 Woah....reading quickly, it looked like you were talking to yourself Tinker!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticker Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 Cool-thanks for the advice. :cool2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 Nylon-reinforced fuel line works fine. Just don't use regular rubber nonreinforced hose. Oh, and you'll have to cut off the ends of the steel lines going into your radiator's internal cooler so the hose will slip onto the ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 Oh, and you'll have to cut off the ends of the steel lines going into your radiator's internal cooler so the hose will slip onto the ends. :confused: Both of my Pathys' solid lines end at the front of the engine block and have hose running to the stock cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 Wierd. Mine had steel lines with fittings on the ends that screw into the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticker Posted March 2, 2006 Author Share Posted March 2, 2006 good question lloydk. anybody know of a how to for this procedure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93blkpathr Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 The easy way to figure it out is the output line is typically the warmer of the two and IIRC it was the one closest to the center of the truck. Most coolers are non-directional, so it's not too critical of an issue (correct me if I'm wrong) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 All of the aftermarket coolers I'm aware of are non-directional. But I have not analyzed any that have thermostats. These would likely be directional. Something to keep in mind: You want to keep the outlet fitting as high as possible to let air bubbles out! Any air bubbles that gets in the line will rise to the top of the cooler as it passes through. If the exit pipe is down low, the air gets trapped. Eventually, most of the cooler capacity above the fluid exit fitting becomes filled with air. Then you need to burp or bleed it. I just drilled and tapped for a 1/8" plug in the end plate of my problem B&M cooler. The cooler wasn't the problem, the way I had to mount it was. I burped before any big trip in heat. Messy job. With the new improved Frankenvan, I rearranged a bunch of stuff so I could mount the coolers with their exit fittings to the top. Never have to burp again! Yes, there should not regularly be air in the trans fluid, but there are occaisional small bubbles. And they accumulate over the miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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