Idler arm qustions

[ticker]

Hey, thanks for the pics, I got my tax refund over the weekend so I'm ready to buy the centerlink. I like the idea of the L&P centerlink but I don't do a whole lot of serious wheelin' so I'm putting this question out there. Aside from being a stonger set up, will adding the L&P centerlink/idler brace do anything for me if I only occasionally go off road? What about a regular centerlink and an idler brace? I'm trying to be cost effective here. I'm not the type to sink a whole lot of money into my ride willy-nilly, I'd much rather put money into things that are fucntional first, and any money saved here will enable me to do something else sooner. Any advice would be appreciated. :bow:

[Simon]

If you're running stock sized tires, and you rarely offroad, you could probably get away with a stock CL. I've had one in for about 4 years, and it was fine until just recently, after my first wheeling excursion with my larger tires. It's got a little bit of play in it now (nothing excessive) and will need to be replaced, probably after a couple more runs.

[87pathy]

you know, it that first couple of pics of your idler arm, it looks bent backward toward the rear of the vehicle.. that could be very bad news. Maybe it isn't but in the pic it sure does.

[mws]

I see what you're seeing... But it may be optical illusion? I'm thinking the bushing would be visibly distorted if the pin was bent?

 

'88: You're the resident expert at bending idler arm pins, what say ye?

 

 

The stock CL lasted 200K miles on my '87, running 31x10.5's but very little offroading use according to the previous owner. And no "hard" off roading. So they are quite fine for light use.

Edited March 6, 2006 by mws

[k9sar]

looking at the angle of the frame member, I don't think the IA is bent.

[ticker]

It looks fine to me. (now that I know what it is )It must be the angle of the camera. I think if it were bent like that I would have noticed and would be suffering much bigger problems. Thanks for the replies though, I have about 120,000 and the CL just went bad. Any thoughts on an idler arm brace? It seems like from what you guys are saying that perhaps the stock CL would be fine. I'm kinda torn to tell the truth. I guess I'll sleep on it.

Edited March 7, 2006 by ticker

[ticker]

OK so I've made my decision. I decided to go for it and get the L&P stage one set up. How difficult is this to swap out? It seems pretty straightforward. I have changed TREs before with out a problem and I'm pretty pumped for this upgrade. Here are the questions

1) How hard is it to drill out the idler and pitman arms to 5/8?

2) How long should this all take.

3) L&P requires a alignment afterwards, I've heard of people having problems getting their trucks aligned, any tips to get them to do it right the firs time.

thanks

ticker -bounce-

[Pathfinder Phil]

Well, "P" here of L&P. This is a pretty easy install. Most people say it takes about 2 hours, working slowly and carefully. Drilling will really depend on how good, or not, your drill bit is. If you want, or can, if you send us the arms, we will drill them for free. If not, the best way to do it is to remove the Idler arm, and drill it on a drill press. You will be 90% to removing it anyway if you put a IAB on. As for the pitman arm, sometimes removing them can be hard. If you can't get it off easily, or choose not to, just lock your steering and drill it while it's still attached. Make sure the holes are straight!

 

Alignments aren't too hard to do on our trucks, but some places do have problems. Make them tell you what specs it's aligned to. Printouts are nice. Just find a good reliable shop, and you should be OK.

 

And, you won't regret your decision. We stand behind our products. If you have ANY questions or problems, just let us know!!!

[87pathy]

OK so I've made my decision. I decided to go for it and get the L&P stage one set up. How difficult is this to swap out? It seems pretty straightforward. I have changed TREs before with out a problem and I'm pretty pumped for this upgrade. Here are the questions

1) How hard is it to drill out the idler and pitman arms to 5/8?

2) How long should this all take.

3) L&P requires a alignment afterwards, I've heard of people having problems getting their trucks aligned, any tips to get them to do it right the firs time.

thanks

ticker -bounce-

It took me all of about 5 min to drill out the pitman arm.. this is what you do.

 

go down to autozone and get yourself a Free to use pitman arm puller, comes right of.

 

Second, take the idler arm down to your company machine shop put it in the chuck, and go right throug it..

 

If you don't have that option, find a friend who has a drill press. take your time.

 

You could do it by hand, but don't try to start fromt the big side, you'll hose up your bit and you won't cut it staight. go from the other side. This is not the recommended way though (required disclaimer)

[KILLVOX]

Does anyone think this centerlink from 4x4 is good enough for normal driving conditions.

[88pathoffroad]

Yes, but it'll still wear out eventually and you'll be replacing it again.

[Pathfinder Phil]

^What he said. I don't expect you to entirely believe me, but ask around. It seems the aftermarket STANDARD ones tend to go faster then the OM ones. But, if you want, go ahead and buy that one. We'll be waiting.......

[ticker]

WOOOHOOOOOOO! I ordered my new Cl and brace last night. It should be here in a couple weeks. Now i just need to dig the drill press out of my father in laws shed and find a shop nearby to do the alignment. -bounce-

Edited March 15, 2006 by ticker