kremmen Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 (edited) Hey all, Just wondering if I can get some advice on suspension upgrade (currently stock). Was thinking of going with either Ironman or Old Man Emu. I was going to replace shocks, springs, torsion, and get a dampener. Any thoughts on these two products, I would like to get 2-3 inch lift over stock. Also, I am pretty new at this, I would like to increase front height and you can do this by adjusting front torsion bars? Anyone know hoe to do this? Also what does the front torsion bar look like Cheers Edited December 31, 2005 by kremmen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 may want to check out this section: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showforum=9 and there have been some threads about the t-bar crank somewhere although not sure where... you're more then welcome to look around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 Ironman... ... if one would actually press that link one would find this picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 check out this whole deal here and search how to crank t bars, theres alot of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 Old Man Emu is really just a kit for people who want to keep everything stock except the ride height and don't like the look of a body lift. What's this Ironman business? I've never heard of them and couldn't find how much lift their kit provided. I'm actually interested in that company as I am on the lookout for good torsion bars and haven't made my choice yet. I've heard that Calmini is your best bet for a 3" lift. Their kit includes everything and isn't missing components. For example, with 3 inches of lift in the front, you need upper control arms but Ironman doesn't make those. You could try to mix and match parts such as getting the Ironman kit and then adding Superlift UCA's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 (edited) steering stabilizer: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1255 messing with torsion bars: http://www.jimbennett.net/torsionadjustment.htm and before everyone else says so, you should search about this since there's no less than 200 other threads dealing with the same exact subject =) "Ironman coil springs lift vehicles around 40mm from new vehicle ride height." other than that i couldn't find any specs, prices, or anything. Edited December 31, 2005 by statikuz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 40mm? That doesn't help me at all. Might as well be speaking Spanish to me. Or I guess I could go to an online converter. Yes. Yes. That's what I'll do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 1.57480315 inches? Doesn't anybody else find that kind of worthless? I have 1" rubber boosters on my stock springs and they cost me $8. Or $12 I can't remember. No it was $8 plus some tire shine which came out to $12. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 1.57480315 inches? Doesn't anybody else find that kind of worthless? I have 1" rubber boosters on my stock springs and they cost me $8. Or $12 I can't remember. No it was $8 plus some tire shine which came out to $12. is it really that much different from a 2" BL? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 Sure it is. You'd be surprised at how many off-roaders refuse to outfit their truck with a body lift. Actually, now that I think about it, it's the truck/SUV owners that never take their vehicles off-road that don't like the body lifts... off-roaders will usually combine both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 i ment just 2" but not necessarily body lift.. i guess the ucas are 3" anyway.. maybe time to get some shut eye.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 haha it's actually the hardcore offroaders that dislike body lifts, you put much more than a 1-2" body lift on and then put your rig on some rocks, you're going to put some excessive and unnecessary force on your body mounts. i know we all h4t3 on pirate, but: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread....light=body+lifT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 haha it's actually the hardcore offroaders that dislike body lifts, you put much more than a 1-2" body lift on and then put your rig on some rocks, you're going to put some excessive and unnecessary force on your body mounts. i know we all h4t3 on pirate, but: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread....light=body+lifT good info there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 There's a giant difference between a 2" BL and a 1.5" SL. The SL only alters the ride height at a standstill, when you go over bumps the tires still come just as close to the fenderwells as at stock height with this IFS system. With a 2" BL, it's always got 2" of tire clearance, no change in front due to wheel travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 A solid 3" suspension lift cost me (without new UCA's or shocks, which I later purchased) the following: SwayAway torsion bars: $200 or so plus shipping, like $240 Jeep Grand Cherokee junkyard front coils for the rear: $40 Then there are the worn out parts for not listening to people.. Upper ball joints, bought with lower bj's and all tie rod ends in a kit for $100 on eBay= PRICELESS Rough Country (Superlift clones?) UCA's: $140 with bushings Anyways, the point to this is that there are some options and a guy could piece it together with some patience. Its not cheap of course, but if you exercise some patience you can score some deals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 (edited) 1.57480315 inches? Doesn't anybody else find that kind of worthless? I have 1" rubber boosters on my stock springs and they cost me $8. Or $12 I can't remember. No it was $8 plus some tire shine which came out to $12. While it may seem worthless for people that just want lifted trucks, if you outfit a stock vehicle with a winch bumper and a winch the stock t-bars won't be up to the task and will sag. If you try to crank the stockers back up again the ride will be super stiff and crap. Hence small lift but higher spring rates on those t-bars. It's not all about maximum lift for some. Sure it looks good but for example my truck is super low compared to many others yet I can go over stuff that many of the 3+3 rigs only dream about. It's all how well your suspension works. I set up my suspension to move UP and DOWN not just UP as most people have with maxed out t-bars riding on bumpstops. In fact it's pretty much ALL about downtravel. I am finding that my mild suspension lift does cause some annoying rubbing with my 32"s but I am going to install a very small, 1" perhaps body lift to solve the issue. I like my truck with a nice low center of gravity so I am doing only what's absolutely necessary. EDIT: I think that it should be said that if one's looking for a suspension lift for their Nissan truck they should factor in the cost of aftermarket steering system into their budget. Stock stuff just ain't cutting it with lifts or larger tires. Edited December 31, 2005 by Filthy Luker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kremmen Posted December 31, 2005 Author Share Posted December 31, 2005 All sound advice, cheers. I think I will stick with the ironman gear, see how that goes with a bit of torsion lift as well ( still got me scoobied about the torsion lift though ) The rancho 5000's are dear in australia - $145 each. OME are about the same. Thanks for the links, very handy. Maybe 1" body lift if necessary later down the track. As you can tell I ma new to this, used to just charging in and if worse comes to worse, anchor and handwinch solves most problems!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 hey krem here are some links of similar questions I asked in the past http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0entry33943 http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0entry34269 hope this helps and clears up some of your questions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 Sure it is. You'd be surprised at how many off-roaders refuse to outfit their truck with a body lift. Actually, now that I think about it, it's the truck/SUV owners that never take their vehicles off-road that don't like the body lifts... off-roaders will usually combine both. The BL might not look as good as a sus lift, but you need to get the body away from the tires or you'll eat sheetmetal whenever you flex. Not that theres alot of sus flex to be done at the mall parking lot, if thats your thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 See, I told you body lifts were for off-road guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 haha it's actually the hardcore offroaders that dislike body lifts, you put much more than a 1-2" body lift on and then put your rig on some rocks, you're going to put some excessive and unnecessary force on your body mounts. i know we all h4t3 on pirate, but: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread....light=body+lifT That is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard. You even post up a link, to a forum no less, that did not support what you said. Hard core 4wheelers prefer a BL above a suspension lift so they can get their 35 inch and above tyres on. It keeps the COG lower that a straight out SL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 That is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard. You even post up a link, to a forum no less, that did not support what you said. of course it's a forum, where else are you going to get scientific advice on offroading? =) and while pirate guys are occasionally punks, they usually know what they're talking about. and it did support my point. "The biggest problem with a body lift is the stess it puts on the body mounts and the body lift itself. An inch or so is fine, but over that and it really starts multiplying the stress applied to the mounts." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 "The biggest problem with a body lift is the stess it puts on the body mounts and the body lift itself. An inch or so is fine, but over that and it really starts multiplying the stress applied to the mounts." Yes its true adding a body lift stresses your body mounts. But so does cranking your tbars stress your cv axles; your ball joints and your steering. Sure a BL is the cheaper way out, but that doesn't make it wrong. If you want a simple answer there isn't one! I read that whole thread and alot of what is said is either personal opinion, or just wrong. I liked the guy who said the other dude musta broke his tcase shifter cause of the stress caused by the BL. WTF is he talking about? sure a BL make the Tcase shifter a little harder to reach, but it doesn't add any stress to it! that said I would recommend a SL before a BL, and as a rule of thumb dont have more BL than SL, thats going cheap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kremmen Posted January 1, 2006 Author Share Posted January 1, 2006 (edited) Sweet, all food for thought. I am gonna adjust/reindex torsion today, so see how i go. Just had to search the net for pictures so i knew what i was lookin at. Here is a good link for any other newbs that come along like myself in regards to torsion bars/lift etc. torsion stuff It is about the monterey (challenger in oz) but still has good piccies of torsions abars etc. My last vehicle was a 2000 landrover defender, coils all round so I had to get myhead around torsion bars etc. Also here are some diagrams of the terrano's suspension. Edited January 1, 2006 by kremmen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kremmen Posted January 1, 2006 Author Share Posted January 1, 2006 (edited) GODDAMMM those nuts were on tight!! WD40'ed em, nothing. Hands are sorer than an abstinent monk's!!! and still couldn't getem off. Looks like bite the bullet and get em done with the new shockies n springs. Here's the rear terrano set up. Edited January 1, 2006 by kremmen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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