dkpath96 Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 So the mechanic took my Pathy for a spin a few months back and noticed it sounded like a bucket of loose bolts when going over RR tracks. We decided to replace all four swaybar linkages and bushings. It helped a bit. However, now the inconsistent "rubber mallet hitting the floor" clunk when accelerating or braking has returned and has become consistent. It sounds to me like something is banging against the frame or underside of the vehicle, on the drivers side, and it either occurs up front (under my feet, almost) or sometimes from behind me, when I accelerate or brake moderately. I know it is nothing loose within the vehicle. Could it be a frame mount or transmission mount? Or could it be another bushing or something related to suspension? I still rattle quite a bit over bumps. No mechanic has been successful so far in finding anything loose, even after rear suspension work (new shocks) and exhaust line replacement... HELP! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herm Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 are you sure it isn't the metal loop that engages the rear hatch? It's the part mounted on the floor of the rear area. When the plastic coating wears off it rattles. m. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 If i am correct...my pathy has the same exact sound and feel.. ..try this, next time you first begin to drive the truck (for the day) when you have to make that first stop at a light or whatever...kick it to neutral before you finish your stop. I have a feeling that this is not suspension related or transmission related...I think it is related to the rear end being "loose" we'll say. If I pull up to a stop and kick it out of gear it stops with no second shudder; when in gear it feels as though a shock were coming to rest with the weight of the truck...but it is not the suspension. : did that sound confusing?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 I also get a similar noise on occasion.... Im guessing it has something to do with the auto-hubs... Reasoning: when I stop and reverse my direction it will go away... Monday night I was taking the wifey out for dinner and the noise was just unbearable... out in the rain with a flash light and I could not find anything loose or hitting... when I backed out of the parking spot having changed nothing it sounded like the hubs dis-engaged.... its been almost 2 weeks since I used the 4WD and I know I dis-engaged the hubs.... This morning on the way to work the noise came back... Next stop light I backed up about 5 feet and it went away.... So im guessing its the auto lock or worse case the front CV's Dunno it the only thing i can find/figure... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted December 29, 2005 Author Share Posted December 29, 2005 (edited) herm, the sound is definitely under the drivers seat or left front side somewhere... It almost sounds like the noise metal makes when you are popping a dent out of it. And sometimes it's a series of these popping noises. I've always just ignored it - my cousin said it right when he told me that if you worry about every little noise, you'd never drive the darn thing... I'll be taking a mechanic out for a drive to listen for it again today, so I will let you all know if I learn anything more. Thaks for the info though, folks! ** Drove it this afternoon - on the way to the shop. It made the noise for roughly 20 miles or so then the noise went away and I could no longer duplicate it, of course!! Seems now to go away after the vehicle warms up... :confused: *** Edited December 29, 2005 by dkpath96 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew K Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 Hey guys, Not sure if this helps, but I had the same problem when I had my 95 Cherokee. The culprit was the yoke when it went in and out of the transfer case when I came to or accelerated from a stop. The only way to solve it was to take the driveshaft out and grease up the end with spindles that fit inside the transfer case (I used high-temp bearing grease). This only helped for about 2-3 months at a time because the grease would break down. I was going to put a grease fitting on the drive shaft, but never got around to it before I bought my '01 Pathy... Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB3829 Posted December 30, 2005 Share Posted December 30, 2005 I get a similar "clunk" when I come to a stop and release the brake. I'm guessing it might be the upper control arm bushings or track bar bushings. I don't feel this clunk when I'm towing my boat or have a heavy item in the cargo area. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted February 6, 2006 Author Share Posted February 6, 2006 Ok, the local shop identified the culprit. They said it is a bad bushing on the rear driver's side "trailing arm"... is this a control arm bushing?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 The trailing arm is the long straight bar like arm that connects the axle to the "frame". I have to replace my bushings there, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 Is the trailing arm the bar underneath the truck that is visable from the side? about 10-12 inches in front of the rear tires? If that is the "trailing arm" then I gots a problem...since I had those bushings replaced the truck still has that second clunk after stopping when the suspension rocks back and when moving forward from "0". I find that if you stop the truck in neutral, there is no clunk.....this should mean that it is in the drive-line somewhere right?? anyone else w/this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 That sounds like a U-joint Jay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted February 9, 2006 Author Share Posted February 9, 2006 vengeful, The garage told me it would be better to replace the whole trailing arm and not just the bushing, but at $125 for the part, I was curious whether this was true or just a money-making ploy... any thoughts? thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 if the arm is damaged then yes, otherwise i surely don't see the point? how is the engine affixed to the body? you guys have a sub frame? there maybe some bushings there too, if that's the case.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navygz19 Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 vengeful, The garage told me it would be better to replace the whole trailing arm and not just the bushing, but at $125 for the part, I was curious whether this was true or just a money-making ploy... any thoughts? thanks! sounds to me like a shop saying it's better to replace pads/rotors/calipers/etc. etc. than just replace two pads and resurface the rotors...a money maker for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 I don't know...the shop I had it done at had a great press...he showed me around a little and told me that in some cases like my buddies BMW it was more cost/labor effective to buy new arms then to spend 30-40 mins trying to press in the bushing due to style and shape and all that of the arm and bushing....they may just have an inadequate staff/press?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted February 10, 2006 Author Share Posted February 10, 2006 Hmmm... sounds like I won't be able to do this repair myself anyways, not being an owner of any kind of press... I found the bushings online for around $38, but was not able to find the trailing arm itself - anyone out there ever find one, bushings and all? If so, then I might be in business as for a DIY job. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 (edited) I can't remember what the make up of the bushings were but when I suggested DIY the shop smiled and asid you can try. I don't think this is a DIY....I had new bushings put into my old arms also....in fact I had the pan hard, upper, and lower arms on both sides dons...10bushings in all and new front end links at the same time for $600 I think Edited February 10, 2006 by 98silverpathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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