GHSER7 Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 I think I might have a prob with the truck. When I start it to the first couple(maybe 5-10 mins) of driving the truck, it smokes white. I noticed it this morning, but thought it was a crappy car sittin' next to me. Then when I left work, I noticed it happened again. After it warms up though it doesn't smoke at all. Could it be a small oil leak that burns off in the first couple of mins of the engine warming up. At first, I was thinking head gasket, but how the smoke goes away after a few, I have no clue. Got any ideas? :confused: I haven't had time to check it out, and prob won't until this weekend but I'm hoping somebody can shed some light on possiblities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 Smoke: White = steam Blue = oil Black = fuel Steam is a product of combustion. It condenses when it hits cold air. Excessive steam could be antifreeze in the cylinders (an indication of a bad head gasket or worse), but the coolant level will also drop at a noticeable rate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHSER7 Posted December 20, 2005 Author Share Posted December 20, 2005 Yeah I'll check out the oil to make sure nothing is in it, and also watch the coolant levels. I'll prob take the car to work the rest of the week until I can pinpoint this prob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 isn't ATF white-ish also? if it is the head gasket you're gonna blow it if you keep driving the truck.. also check the coolant for oil.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derogate Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 I have this problem also... But mine smells heavily of fuel.. like its running really rich. Its still very white though. It was doing it pretty bad when it was warm out also. When I tromp it in reverse going up the driveway She stalls... or almost stalls. Are you experiencing similar symptoms? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 Smoke: White = steam Blue = oil Black = fuel Excessive steam could be antifreeze in the cylinders (an indication of a bad head gasket or worse), but the coolant level will also drop at a noticeable rate. my issue right now .. but i also smell fuel in the oil and out the tailpipe :sniff: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHSER7 Posted December 20, 2005 Author Share Posted December 20, 2005 I have this problem also... But mine smells heavily of fuel.. like its running really rich. Its still very white though. It was doing it pretty bad when it was warm out also. When I tromp it in reverse going up the driveway She stalls... or almost stalls. Are you experiencing similar symptoms? No the truck drives fine, I just noticed the smoke yesterday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delavoie Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 same issue here,, when it's really cold out. The first couple minutes the truck is running is smells like fuel pretty badly. Once it warms up,, it goes away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHSER7 Posted December 20, 2005 Author Share Posted December 20, 2005 Is the Headgasket a PITA to change out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 same issue here,, when it's really cold out. The first couple minutes the truck is running is smells like fuel pretty badly.Once it warms up,, it goes away. Thats probably normal starting auto choke dumping extra fuel in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 same issue here,, when it's really cold out. The first couple minutes the truck is running is smells like fuel pretty badly.Once it warms up,, it goes away. yeah, that's kind of normal.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 Is the Headgasket a PITA to change out? yeah, a bit.. it's pretty involved.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 ATF in the exhaust? Don't believe I have ever seen that, nor can I figure out how, but I would think it would burn blue to black, not white? :confused: Regarding fuel smell on cold weather starts, thats quite normal. Even though FI don't have a choke, the system runs a bit rich until the engine begins to warm up. Head gaskets are a 5 on the 1-10 scale, IMO. If the head is warped, it should be milled or replaced to prevent the same thing from happening again. To install, it is best, though not necessarily required, to replace the head bolts (I personally haven't as a matter of practice). Though I've heard reused bolts should be torqued less than new ones (theory is used are prestressed) I don't believe it is that critical as long as the sequence is followed and all the bolts are torqued the same. Oh yeah, did I mention you'd also need a manual and torque wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 ATF in the exhaust? Don't believe I have ever seen that, nor can I figure out how, but I would think it would burn blue to black, not white? :confused: I have AF dripping outta my pipe..along with the lovely smell of gas.... blueish white..all the time... obviously worse when cold.. but stand behind it hot and you can easily get a head rush after 5 mins..lol :oops: i am still trying to pinpoint the problem.. but am leaning towards HG as the injectors would yes.. use fuel and stink.. but NOT cause AF to be lost internally and spit out the back... and my oil STINKS of gas... :oops: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notorious7004 Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 I would suspect worn valve guides/seals. They let oild drip to the cylinders and you get the white / blueish smoke when you initially start up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHSER7 Posted December 20, 2005 Author Share Posted December 20, 2005 I would suspect worn valve guides/seals. They let oild drip to the cylinders and you get the white / blueish smoke when you initially start up. I guess I'll drive the truck again and keep checking the oil and coolant. I just didn't want to warp the head with the blown gasket. It doesn't smoke right away, it'll smoke a few mins after I start it, and I've only noticing it lasts a few mins. I'm thinking if I've got time, I'll replace the headgasket, timing belt, water pump and manifold studs.....along with the valve guides/seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHSER7 Posted December 21, 2005 Author Share Posted December 21, 2005 Anything else I should replace while I've got the head off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 I guess I'll drive the truck again and keep checking the oil and coolant. I just didn't want to warp the head with the blown gasket. It doesn't smoke right away, it'll smoke a few mins after I start it, and I've only noticing it lasts a few mins. I'm thinking if I've got time, I'll replace the headgasket, timing belt, water pump and manifold studs.....along with the valve guides/seals. With all that, you may as well pull the engine and put it on a stand. Your back will thank you. And, you can put headers on while you are at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHSER7 Posted December 22, 2005 Author Share Posted December 22, 2005 Well, I just finished a motor swap on my Sentra and really would like to just pull the head off for now. I'd also like headers, but not at this time. I really would like to lift the truck before headers. Also once I get headers, I'll want a full exhaust too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgranch Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 a couple of comments: to GHSER7. I have pulled heads on a VG30 motor lots of times. I always pull them in place in the engine bay if I can. Removing the engine will more than double the work required to fix the problem. You just have to do things in the right order. Also if you replace the head bolts (I have done it both ways) be careful. You have to check washer clearances very carefully or you will crack a head like I did once. SLICK: ATF out the tailpipe???? I have a hard time understanding how ATF can get past the Cat. As for fuel smell in the oil. That is very normal. Well normal for any vehicle over 50,000 miles. The rings start to loosen up and when the engine is cold there is lots of blow by into the crank case. If you change the oil and smell the fuel 20 miles latter in the oil then you may have a problem. As a general statement the oil traps all sorts of contamination from an internal combustion engine, including heavy metals. That is why most states treat waste motor oil as a toxic substance but allow industry to treat oil from manufacturing facilities as nontoxic. Just keep the oil changed about every 3000 miles and everything should be fine. -bounce- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 (edited) SLICK: ATF out the tailpipe???? I have a hard time understanding how ATF can get past the Cat. As for fuel smell in the oil. That is very normal. Well normal for any vehicle over 50,000 miles. The rings start to loosen up and when the engine is cold there is lots of blow by into the crank case. If you change the oil and smell the fuel 20 miles latter in the oil then you may have a problem. As a general statement the oil traps all sorts of contamination from an internal combustion engine, including heavy metals. That is why most states treat waste motor oil as a toxic substance but allow industry to treat oil from manufacturing facilities as nontoxic. Just keep the oil changed about every 3000 miles and everything should be fine. -bounce- i always change my oil every 3,000 miles ..i am very anal about my maint schedules :contract: i keep track of EVERYTHING i do in a word document on my puter. i changed the oil (which stank of gas) and not long after stank again.... then i did it about 2 weeks ago.. with thicker oil and some bars leak in the rad.. not so bad but yeah.. gas smell is there.. not as bad... but there. my pathy has 137,000 miles. i am losing internal coolant.. and when i let her sit idling there is a constant drip drip drip coming from the tail pipe.. warm , hot or cold.... my entire exhasut is less than 9 months old.. and i am feeling this is internal somewhere.. berfore the bars leak i swear i heard what sounded like the valves tapping.. now she is wuiet again. my fuel consumtion is something else.. driven slightly harder than usual.. instead of my usual 250-300 miles per tank i got 190 miles.... my gas mileage varies week to week... -thnkboutit- Edited December 29, 2005 by 88pathoffroad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldpathy Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 ATF in the exhaust? Don't believe I have ever seen that, nor can I figure out how, but I would think it would burn blue to black, not white? Back in the day Chevy (can I say that here) had a modulator on I believe it was the 2 speed powerglide. Never did know what it did, It was a diaphram in what looked like an oil sending unit except it had a vacum line on it. When the diphram cracked or split the vacum sucked ATF into the intake manifold. It caused a little smoke but it realy made you search all over to figure out where your ATF was going. Don't know if pathfinders have such a thing or not. Mindless trivia............... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 Nope, no such setup on the Pathfinder tranny. Slick, a slow drip is normal for exhaust. The exhaust cools down a LOT after leaving the engine (hence the condensation of water vapor) and the higher flow rate of your new exhaust allows more surface area and a straighter path for condensation to exit the exhaust. I wouldn't worry about it unless you see green drips coming out the tailpipe. Pull your O2 sensor and clean it. Pull your MAF sensor and clean it. Make sure the connections on the cylinder head temp sensor and the dash gauge temp sensors are tight. All these things can make your engine run rich and give you poor gas mileage. KISS, eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted December 30, 2005 Share Posted December 30, 2005 The o2 sensor was new (Bosch) installed when i pulled the motor in feb/march, and i cleaned the maf sensor bout a month ago... which did help.. but i need to figure out what's going on so i can get her to pass a smog test.. she failed at 15mph on the hc's.... BARELY.. but it was a fail.. asshat did leave her running for 30 mins before doing the test.. i am gunna go somewhere else monday and have a pre test done to see whassup.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted December 30, 2005 Share Posted December 30, 2005 I'm with OldPathy. I have seen ATF get sucked into the carb if the vacuum module on the tranny has gone bad. I have also seen it where ATF has been sucked into the brake vacuum booster. In general I have found that where ATF shows up depends on where the modules vacuum is being supplied from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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