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Oliver
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damn this cold weather. Its killed my pathy! :furious:

 

I turn the key and the lights come on and such but no start, it doesn't even crank. WTF?

 

I don't really know what to look for. The antifreeze looked ok and the batt is charged, it seems.

 

Help please :help:

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Well the battery could be charged but only enough to run your lights but maybe not enough to crank over the engine. Did you try jumping it?

 

I've noticed with this cold weather that starting the car up in the morning, I can tell the battery is showing its age as I've never replaced it in the 3 years I've owned the vehicle.

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I've noticed with this cold weather that starting the car up in the morning, I can tell the battery is showing its age as I've never replaced it in the 3 years I've owned the vehicle.

Mine too. Almost time for a Quest alternator and Optima yellow-top.

 

What year is your Pathfinder?

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First, check the connections at the battery, ground and starter (fusable link also since you are there). Then put a multimeter on the batteryand get a reading. It should be 12+ volts. Next, try to start it. If there is no real voltage drop, power is not getting to your starter. If the voltage drops much below 11 volts your battery is getting tired, but should still crank somewhat. Check the cluch inter lock switch and switch its self. Try whacking on the starter selenoid or talking the starter out and haveing it bench tested. From there you may be looking at thing like interlock relay, ignition relay, etc.

 

B

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if its an auto, check the Inhibit relay. with out this relay, or it not working, the truck wont even try to crank over. the fuel pump will go on, and everything else will work, but it jsut wont crank. there is also an Inhibitor switch on the transmission. that could be gone too. with out both of those things working, the ECU will think the trans is in a gear other than park or neutral. so it wont even crank. just went/going through this myself. except my relay is shorting out and melting/melted a bunch of my wires... :angry:

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Oliver,

 

If it boils down to Needing to replace the starter, It will take me about 30 min...

 

Provided it is a warm dry place....

 

I am happy to help...

 

That baby is a manual so you will be able to get it started and over here -bounce-

Edited by Casey.T
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That sux! Guess I'm glad I'm down in "balmy" North Carolina for this cold spell we've had back in Spokane! Back there Tuesday, though...wondered if my truck will start right off the bat.

 

It's prolly the battery as they use more amperage in cold weather conditions than in warmer. This causes additional strain on the battery by needing to produce more amperage - an older battery can just not be up to snuff for these conditions. In fact, this is where we get the term "cold cranking amps" as a battery is measured by it's amperage performance at 0 degrees celcius.

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Well I'll check out that battery tomorrow. I don't have a multimeter though, the damn thing's at home. :clap:

 

I'm guessing that's what the problem is. A couple days ago I had *trouble* getting it started but now its totally kaput.

 

I'll try to jump it tomorrow see where it goes from there.

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I had a similar problem, my lights wouldn't even come one. I thought the alt died on me. But some one gave me a jump and took it to autozone, had the alt and battery checked, but everything was ok. What I later found out is that the factory groud terminal, which looks like the ring was maxed out for it to be tight, but was still loose on the batter posts. I ended up changing both terminals, and have not had a problem since.

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Haven't gotten to it yet. I've been typing all day. Gotta love last minute final projects. I've been staring at this screen for 3 days straight :blink:

 

The end is in sight, however. -bounce-

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do all the connection checks and what not cuze thats what it sounds like is battery but if it happens to be the starter u can put the truck in 1st and rock it back and forth for a lil while and it will do the same as hitting the starter with a hammer it'll eventually move it off of a bad spot if there is 1...but i would put the money on a weak battery or corrosion or a loose connection

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Had a similar occurence about two months ago - turn key, nothing happens. Light rap on starter housing got it going (not too hard, you can break the magnets that line the starter housing - big $$). Tested for voltage to starter, came out 12+. Pulled starter and had it tested - perfect function, no problems. Started once after re-install, then nothing. Turned out to be the solenoid - $14 fix. Much better than $200 plus for new starter!

 

Tinker

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I purchased a new solenoid from an auto electric supply house here in Edmonton called Alter-Start. The specialize in alternator and starter rebuild for automotive and heavy equipment. Check your local yellow pages for auto electric rebuild outfits - they're usually pretty good about supplying parts, and will match the correct part if you bring the old one in. I found out my starter wasn't an OEM Nissan unit, turned out to be a Mitsubishi, but still works fine after installing the new solenoid.

 

Tinker

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Well once it spent the night in the garage in Cle Elum it started right up and has been fine since then. I did replace the negative battery cable terminal because it was loose. Now my concern is the fact that the low oil pressure light flickered on while I was driving on I-5 yesterday. It came on at Fife and I pulled over to check the oil and the light hasn't come on since.

 

Lisa's Dad's advice is to sell it.

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I'll go pay those clutch guys a visit with my Yugoslavian friend, yeah, oil checked out ok. and nope its not payed for yet. Between this and the :furious: stereo I want to steer it into a :X tree!!!!

 

I hate cars

 

Where's that damn whiskey :angry:

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It did it again today. Its only when the temp drops below freezing. I took it in to the mechanic my Dad and I go to here he couldn't find anything wrong but has a few ideas. If it happens more I'll go see what he says.

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