Mr. Pickles Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 Does this sound familiar. Been running just fine, drove 125 miles yesterday and around town today, then jumped in for the 125 drive home and there is a red Battery idiot light. The battery is maybe 2 months old, and she fires up fine. I ran it with the battery disconnected for a bit with the lights on to test the alternator, and it kept going just fine. Headlights come on, as do the roof rack lights, domes, stereo and amps, although the 100 watt driving lights didn't want to come on a few times. What I don't have is a functioning heater blower, and the tach is dead. Pulled the codes and got a 55. Anybody know/remember what this is? Alternator? I'm gonna be searching around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 Alternator's only putting out a few amps, but at good voltage. I bet a field winding wire broke somewhere inside that killed it's output. Have it tested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 not sure what code 55 is but what 88 said was my first thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted November 27, 2005 Author Share Posted November 27, 2005 We just ran a tester on at the battery. 12.8 volts when off, 14.3 when started and running. Do you think that could still be an alternator problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted November 27, 2005 Author Share Posted November 27, 2005 Code 55, all is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 I'm not sure how to check the alt for amperage output, electrical is not my strong point. While it is probably not the case, have you looked at the connections, grounding, fusable link ? Maybe you are just not getting good conductivity ? I know if you pull the alt, some auto stores can bench test them, but I'd call to make sure they are looking at amps also, not just volts... If the connections/etc are good I'd have to guess the alt is bad. There is a free one offered to a needy home in the classified section... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 I'd check connections at the battery and alternator, then have the alternator's output amperage tested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted November 27, 2005 Author Share Posted November 27, 2005 Thanks guys. On 2nd review, I think the alternator is fine. After running with and without the battery connected, I ran it for a while around the neighborhood, and all was fine. We again checked voltage while the engine was off and running, and all was well- 12.5 off on a cold morning, and 14.3 while running. Then we followed the Ms.' sister and brother in law most of the way home with no issues, covering 125 mile in about 2 hours with a stop near the end, and no issues. Ran fine all the way at about 75-80mph I guess. But here's an update: No speedo, odometer or engine temp gauge, along with said tach, heater blower, and the battery light. I'm leaning toward the voltage regulator, or whatever that dash cluster issue was. Does that sound like a cause? Anyways, to compound things, while I was out in the 30-something degree rain figuring this out last night, I was already coming down with a cold. So depending on how I feel, I'm gonna run up to Auto Zone after the Seahawks game and see if they can run their tester on the alternator just in case. As usual, keep it coming, and thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 Just a shot in the dark, but try and wiggle the ignition switch when the key is in. Mine did the same thing and it turned out to be a bad switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted November 28, 2005 Author Share Posted November 28, 2005 Just a shot in the dark, but try and wiggle the ignition switch when the key is in. Mine did the same thing and it turned out to be a bad switch. Sorry, no go but thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 iirc, there is a voltage reg. in behind the gages that just controls the current to the cluster. the wiring diags in Haynes' are decent enough to be useful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 iirc, there is a voltage reg. in behind the gages that just controls the current to the cluster. the wiring diags in Haynes' are decent enough to be useful There is one back there. 88 offered up a fix for it HERE But I am not sure if that is the root or at least, the whole problem. This regulator is what drives the fuel and temp guages on your dash guage set, and it's a fairly common thing to go out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted November 28, 2005 Author Share Posted November 28, 2005 Yep, doesn't appear to be the voltage reg issue then. The gas gauge is working, but the the temp, speedo, odometer, & tach are dead, as is the blower. The blower motor has me confused, as it seems to be an independent issue apart from the cluster. Also, you no longer need to engage the clutch to start it up. Strange. At least they're predicting snow tomorrow, meaning I'll get to drive it anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 Hey Mr P, Chiltons states that there is a relay for the blower, located to the side of your left foot. The clutch interlock switch, etc is down there also. Could you have kicked around some of the wiring down there ? Things gotten wet, maybe from leaky windshield seal ? Just guessing at this point, but it is begining to sound like wiring/relay/fuse type issue... Sorry, I don't know much about electrical, but thats where I would troubleshooting. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted November 29, 2005 Author Share Posted November 29, 2005 So K.I.S.S. strikes again. After tracing through wiring diagrams, I noticed a Y/R wire tying into most everything affected. K, so maybe that's it, but I should go back and check all the fuses and stuff again. First one I grab is Meter. Duh. Its blown. Continue with the rest, then replace that one, and everything works. Jack@$$!!! *kicks self in the groin repeatedly* I must have missed it the first time through while trying to rule out the alternator. Buuut... then I go for a test drive, and get a check engine light, which leads me to the next thread I'm about to post. :furious: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 DOH, I considered saying fuses, but I KNEW you would have checked them before !! But then, thats usually a symptom, not the prob... *looks for other post* B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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