cohen Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 The oil pressure gauge always read 0 or a little above. I have the part and have a good idea of where its located, but have no idea where to start or what changing the unit consists of. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 You will need to disconnect the wire. Unscrew it then screw the new one in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 (edited) Assuming you are pluging it in here. You may have easier access to the Oil Sending unit by removing the 2 bolts for the starter(Disco Battery too) and sliding it forward about 4". The Connector for the Sending Unit is in the Starter wiring harness too. That was the only way I could replace mine. Edited November 21, 2005 by Casey.T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohen Posted November 23, 2005 Author Share Posted November 23, 2005 how do you unhook the 2 wires? I've spent a good 30 mins trying to get it unhooked. :furious: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 slide the rubber bootie back and grab the connector. squeeze and pull. If that doesn't work, switch your grip 90 degrees and try again. should come off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted November 26, 2005 Share Posted November 26, 2005 Get some light in there so you can see it. Clean it off. It should be fairly obvious how it comes off after that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohen Posted November 26, 2005 Author Share Posted November 26, 2005 yea after I figured that i was pulling the wrong end.. pssd .. it came off with ease. But the screw was to big and wouldn't go in. So I can either spend $70 for the correct part and still not be sure the oil press. is right. Or take it to a place let them install one and check it with a manual gauge, for about $115. I think im going with the second choice though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 What do you mean, "the screw was too big"? Does the new sensor screw in or not? If not, get one that does. KISS...I'm gonna laugh at you if you spend $115 to replace a $10 sensor that you can do yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohen Posted November 27, 2005 Author Share Posted November 27, 2005 (edited) where can you get it for $10? The autoparts store sells it for 48 (but it's the wrong one) and the Nissan Dealership sells it for 78 (there is 2 different models of it, and it still might not be the correct one). But yea the screw was just a little to big and wouldn't go in because of that. :furious: p.s. this car has been the BIGGEST pain in the @$$ of all time! Nothing ever goes the right way it's constantly one thing after another!! But that's how all old cars are . It'll be nice when it's all done though. I can't wait. Edited November 27, 2005 by cohen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hastifc Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 salvage yard would be a good start. odds of getting another bad one are slim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 $7.67 plus shipping at RockAuto.com... about that at my local Knecht's Auto Parts, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 RockAuto.com is always a good place to look, but it would appear that you can also get it locally for nearly the same price. Niehoff Ignition Oil Pressure Switch $7.99 (online price) at PartsAmerica.com. Buy it online and pick it up in one of your five local Advance Auto Parts stores. Around here the stores are Schucks Auto Supply and they will match an online price if you bring in a printout of the product page. If Advance does the same you can just buy it in the store. But paying "online" saves you the hassle of waiting "in line" at the checkout, when the store is busy... just walk up to the parts counter, pick it up and walk out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 With further review of this. I do remember there being 2 different types of sending units. One was like $12 and the other was way more expensive..... In the 88 I had the Stealership replace the entire Positive Lead from the Battery.... In doing so it changed the connector to the Oil Sending unit and the new cabling did not match up with the old sending unit, the Stealership replaced the sending unit with the one that fit the new connector.... When the sending unit started blowing oil into the starter causing it to fail..... Replaced the Starter(life time Warrenty) Make sure you clean it up before taking it back for replacement. I also took in the sending unit and had them match the connectors... I do not remember the cost on the OSU but I do know it was more than $20 at Napa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 With further review of this. I do remember there being 2 different types of sending units. One was like $12 and the other was way more expensive..... If you search partsamerica.com for "Oil Sending Unit" (make sure you select the vehicle first) you will find that there are two different styles listed and the prices are vastly different ($8-$12 and $42-$60). The link I sent above has a picture in it... I kind of figured that if it did not match then Cohen would probably say something about it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 Hopefully the cheap one is the needed unit. Of the sending units listed in the links the expensive ones say "w/Gauge" Cohen, you mentioned that your "gauge" reads 0. Since it would appear that you do have one(a gauge), you may very well need the expensive unit If that is the case then perhaps it is time for an aftermarket gauge set? :idea: Those can be found for about the same cost as the replacement unit... some even lower in price and they do more -thnkboutit- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 p.s. this car has been the BIGGEST pain in the @$$ of all time! Nothing ever goes the right way it's constantly one thing after another!! But that's how all old cars are . It'll be nice when it's all done though. I can't wait. ALL meant in good humor, please! Oh my, oh my. The younger generation is just getting too spoiled... My '87 Pathfinder has probably been one of easiest cars I've dealt with... I think the only ones easier were the 240SX and our BMW. If you want some real fun, play with VW Eurovans. Or anything from the 70's. Of course, anything from the 60's or earlier will be much simpler, but then things fail at least 10X as often.... So the repairs are simple but so frequent it eventually makes you nuts! I kept a '65 Ford Fairlane running for over 300K miles.... Don't EVEN ask how many sets of points I installed. Or how many front suspension repairs. Or brake jobs. So if it makes it any better (and I know it won't), trust me, it could be a lot worse! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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