Fogs not working, among other things...

[OR99.5Speed]

-bounce- Being in college has not been easy on the Pathy.

This past week, whenever I get out of the car and reach for the door to shut it I have been getting shocked by static electricity. I know I have cloth seats but it never has done this. Why could it be doing this?

 

Which leads me to the next thing. The PIAA Ion Crystal bulbs which I installed properly in the fog housings both quit this weekend. They have been used since June of 2005. The drivers bulb quit Friday and the passenger bulb quit Saturday. Could this be related to the static electricity?

 

I have the outside spare tire carrier. Recently the pictogram on the dash of the carrier ajar has been sporadically illuminating while driving. I know that the carrier has been shut all the way. The light will illuminate for a split second every second for say three minutes, then it will retire for the day. It really is weird. Where is the sensor? What could be the problem?

 

There is also either a belt or a pulley noise. When the engine is running at any speed there is a constant metallic sound coming from the front of the engine. Not sure is a worn belt would make this noise. The T-belt and alternator belt were replaced 5k miles ago. What the culprit?

 

The hatch glass lock also got stuck, causing the glass to fly open at 50 MPH. That was fun! The lock seems really hard to turn.

 

Some idiot hit the rear bumper in the parking lot (luckily in the spot that needed to be repainted) and didn't leave a note, only a much larger area of damage.

 

Some drunk idiot stumbled into the side of my car and shattered the passenger front ventvisor thingy. He told me to send him the bill, at least...

 

Some drunk girl accidentally rubbed her bubble gum into the back seat cloth cushion. I may be a detailer but this is gonna be a tough one.

 

A really good girlfriend of mine was riding shotgun and was playing with the rearview mirror and somehow ripped it out of the roof. Looks like an easy job but still gonna let the dealer handle that one. We have a really friendly dealer here in Bloomington. Don't know how to ask her to pay that one, lol...

 

I also just hit 100k miles! Yay!

 

Thats about it... Any help would be appreciated!

Edited November 14, 2005 by OR99.5Speed

[94extreme]

my first guess is grounding might be your prob. something is loose and frying your stuff..

 

fogs: check fuse

 

noise: you'll have to way narrow that down but maybe the tensioner pulley? know to go bad on wd21s

[OR99.5Speed]

Ahhh, thank you for the reply.

 

As for the noise, I got the timing belt and tensioner replaced at 95k miles. The alternator belt was replaced at roughly the same time. They have not been looked at since. The noise is slightly metallic, not really the sound of a rubber belt slipping and squealing. The more I think about it the more I am inclined to say it is pulley related, possibly bearings. This happens, right?

 

I forgot to add about the fogs that the bulbs are 55w. Not sure what factory is.

 

Were grounds the problem, could a custom ground kit solve this? I have heard that Nissans have poor grounds... Are there ground kits available?

[94extreme]

Ahhh, thank you for the reply.

 

As for the noise, I got the timing belt and tensioner replaced at 95k miles. The alternator belt was replaced at roughly the same time. They have not been looked at since. The noise is slightly metallic, not really the sound of a rubber belt slipping and squealing. The more I think about it the more I am inclined to say it is pulley related, possibly bearings. This happens, right?

 

I forgot to add about the fogs that the bulbs are 55w. Not sure what factory is.

 

Were grounds the problem, could a custom ground kit solve this? I have heard that Nissans have poor grounds... Are there ground kits available?

hard telling, lot's of possible noises up there man, h2o pump, alt, smog pump.. who knows..

 

are you getting power to the fogs? there is a fuse on the battery side on wd21, under the hood just for those.. not sure about your edition

 

no idea on the grounding kits.. i don't have those issues.. you getting shocked kind of tells me something is touching things where it's not supposed to or it's not grounded..

the only other thing, in the doors there are some connectors that you may wanna check but you didn't mention window/lock troubles and those (connectors) seem to manifest themselves in that area.

[Pezzy]

looks like you need to stay away from drunk people... lol

 

for the gum, I know using ice to freeze it can help you get rid of the majority of it - try a search online on "how to remove gum" there's usually a pile of info for things like that...

[Simon]

For the squeal you have. Try spraying a little WD40 behind the pulley on your Power Steering pump. If that stops the squeek, take the pulley off, and apply a little grease on the shaft, and mating surface, and that'll take care of it for quite a while.

[vengeful]

Static: I get this, too. It typically happens in the fall and lasts through the winter when the air is dryer and more prone to static electric activity. Have you started wearing jeans more often lately? I find that it is more frequent when I wear jeans than Khakis....Shouldn't be anything to get all worried about.

 

Fogs: I have had BAD experiences with PIAA bulbs in factory light housings. I have not yet had a single set of PIAA bulbs last me more than 5 months. The factory fog lights are rated at 55W, so you're fine there. In my estimation, there isn't enough resistance in the factory fog light circuitry and it causes the PIAA bulbs to burn too hot, causing them to blow out. PIAA bulbs also seem to be hyper-sensitive to vibrations, and fog lights seem to have an awful lot of that. When I still had my factory fog lights, bulbs would typically last me 3-4 months. The set of PIAA Ion Crystal H3s I had in there lasted me 6 weeks before blowing out...WASTE OF MONEY! If you really want to have the yellow illumination from fog lights, maybe try getting some aftermarket fog light housings with the amber fog already installed. I have had a set of cheapo Walmart Amber fog lights installed on my truck for almost 6 months now with no problems.

 

Spare Tire Carrier Ajar Light, Hatch Glass Lock, and Parking Lot Idiot: These seem to me to be related. I'm guessing that when the brainchild hit your truck, he may have knocked something loose in the circuitry for the ajar light. This may have also caused something to shift in the liftgate creating the resistance you're feeling in the lock.

 

Another possible cause for the lock problem could be that some sort of debris got into it. Try squirting some lock grease into it, see if that helps at all. How often to you open and close the rear window? Are you particularly tough on it?

 

Metallic Grinding in Engine: This DEFINITELY sounds like a pulley to me. When you got the Timing Belt changed, did they also change the Water Pump? The bearings could be going bad in the water pump causing that noise. Other possible culprits include, TB Tensioner pulley, harmoic balancer pulley, alternator pulley, alternator (could be defective), power steering pulley. My suggestion: pop the hood and start the truck, listen around your engine bay with an automotive stethoscope (stethoscope with a long rod on it) and poke around your pulleys. When you find the bad one, you'll know it....if the bearings are good in a pulley, it should be very quiet on a stethoscope with only a slight whirring. If you hear a loud grinding or rubbing noise, there's your culprit. You may not even need the stethoscope to find the bad pulley if you've got a good ear.

 

Other Stuff: Don't you just love idiotic drunk people?

[Pezzy]

How to Remove Gum From a Car's Interior

[OR99.5Speed]

Ahh, awesome stuff people, thanks so much for the detailed replies, especially Vengeful!

 

PIAA bulbs suck, I guess I will get some fogs that are whitish-bluish now because I really use them as driving lights, not fogs. I'm not gonna go the cheapo amber route becuase I would rather have a set of Hella 500s or something on the front bumper. I really loved the light color though...

 

I think that since the weather is getting colder here at IU that may be the source of the static. I've lived in Atlanta my whole life, so I'm not used to the climate here.

 

At 95k miles I replaced the timing belt, tensioner and water pump.

 

But today when I started the car, there was a high-pitched metallic squeal, possibly a slipping belt but I'm not sure.

 

My clutch, since I got the car, has felt weird. Kinda stiff, no response. I drove a 2002 Pathfinder SE 5-speed recently with 53k miles and the clutch was perfect. It was light and simple to drive. But it had the 3.5, but I digress... sssh

 

Well today, when I was driving on campus at 35 MPH in fourth going up a little hill (maybe lugging the engine a bit) the clutch slipped for the first time. It went from 2k RPM all the way up to 4500RPM before I could figure it out! Dammit! Any ideas on how long I have on the clutch?

 

I can't find a better upgrade. I see the stock clutch is an Exedy, and I would go that route if I can get 100k at least out of it and it would feel just like that 2002 clutch I drove. Is resurfacing the flywheel recommended at the same time? I have seen conflicting opinions.

 

One more question. The rear end sags about 1.5 inches lower than the front. The whole thing is worn out. With all of these bills and being in college, I was wondering if new shocks and struts would help this problem. I have read that the Nissan springs are weak, but the OME and AC lifts are way pricey. Any budget options, with or without lift. I just want a level look, taller is just fine.

[vengeful]

Is your clutch original? I have heard that Nissan clutches can go either way...either lasting for an incredibly long time, or hardly lasting very long at all. At 95k miles, if you're moderately hard on the truck, it is very feasible that your clutch is on its way out. I do not have a 5-speed, so I really can't comment on whether to resurface the flywheel or not...

 

As far as your suspension sag goes, your rear springs are worn out. Changing the shocks/struts will not do anything to improve your ride height. One approach would be to get a set of Airlift airbags, and inflate them so your truck goes back to the desired height. My roommate has a 94 4Runner (they ALL sag in the rear), and he's got the Airlift bags and they level out his truck quite well. Another option would be to get a set of the OME Medium Duty springs for the rear of your truck. They will give you a slight amount of lift (1" or less), and make the ride more truck like, but it will be more level.

[94extreme]

 

I think that since the weather is getting colder here at IU that may be the source of the static. I've lived in Atlanta my whole life, so I'm not used to the climate here.

some maybe. i live 55mi up the road from you and sure i get a little bit of static here and there but not all the time etc..

[Precise1]

Static: My truck zaps me in the summer (in Cali), every time I get out, and hard. Thats with or without seat covers. I even tried driving nekked a few times, but same thing and you get shocked in odd places... :o If you have a passenger, let them get out first !!

 

Clutch: Yep, yours is gone ! If the truck is mostly city driven, driven agressively, or poorly driven, 100k is about right for stock components. How long can you go ? until the truck won't move anymore but I don't recommend this. The flywhel should be turned for a 'text book' clutch replacement. If it is not badly glazed, scored or doesn't have surface cracks you can get away with out it. The longer you drive with a worn and slipping clutch, the more likely it will have some/all of the problems above. A machine shop wanted $50 to turn mine but I was able to buy a reconditioned one (read turned) with a new ring gear for $65 with a core replacement. No brainer. They WONT accept yours as a core if it has bad surface cracks. Make sure that everything is replaced (clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bushing, etc). you don't want to have to go there again for another 100k+. Get it done as soon as you can is my advice before it leaves you stuck, buggers things up or over rev's the motor.

My clutch was so light and smooth at first, I thought I did something wrong. Now it has settled back to to a reasonable creaky, groaning stiffness... At least I can tell what it is doing...

 

B

[OR99.5Speed]

Clutch: Yep, yours is gone ! If the truck is mostly city driven, driven agressively, or poorly driven, 100k is about right for stock components. How long can you go ? until the truck won't move anymore but I don't recommend this. The flywhel should be turned for a 'text book' clutch replacement. If it is not badly glazed, scored or doesn't have surface cracks you can get away with out it. The longer you drive with a worn and slipping clutch, the more likely it will have some/all of the problems above. A machine shop wanted $50 to turn mine but I was able to buy a reconditioned one (read turned) with a new ring gear for $65 with a core replacement. No brainer. They WONT accept yours as a core if it has bad surface cracks. Make sure that everything is replaced (clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bushing, etc). you don't want to have to go there again for another 100k+. Get it done as soon as you can is my advice before it leaves you stuck, buggers things up or over rev's the motor.

My clutch was so light and smooth at first, I thought I did something wrong. Now it has settled back to to a reasonable creaky, groaning stiffness... At least I can tell what it is doing... 

 

B

Yep, it did it again today!

 

Just to let the Pathfinder community know this, we are also a Maxima owner. On www.maxima.org, there is a member named Dave Burnette. Dave works at South Point Nissan in Austin, TX as a parts man. He is second to none in Nissan knowledge and is one of the nicest people you will deal with. He is a legend on the Maxima community, everyone orders from him and everyone has been more than satisfied. He has the LOWEST prices!

Maxima Forums

 

If you need any OE Nissan parts, call Dave Burnette at (888) 254-6060. Tell him a maxima.org member Denton sent you.

 

My local dealer, Royal Nissan in Bloomington, IN quoted me $421 for Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, and TO Bearing. They quoted me $713 for labor!!!

 

Dave quoted me $277 for the OEM parts Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, and TO Bearing. These are the OEM Diken parts made in Japan.

He also quoted me $153 for a kit made in the U.S. that includes all of these parts in one box.

Dave said that if it were his money he would go OE but he has heard any complaints about the kit.

 

I think I will go OE, any recommendations?

 

Also, I need to find a shop to do the work. I know it is not nice to bring your own parts and do the labor, but it will be way too expensive otherwise. Are there any recommendations on the type of shop to do the work? Transmission, dealer, clutch shop, Indy mechanic? Big job with the transfer case, right?

Edited November 15, 2005 by OR99.5Speed

[94extreme]

independent will probably be your best bet although Aamco would probably do it too. i think it boils down on who do you trust.

[Precise1]

I bought all my clutch parts (claimed OEM) on line for about $180 +shipping. I can send you links if you like, but it sounds like you don't need the,. Also that was for a WD21, not R50... $1000-$1500 seems to be the 'normal' price range.

Yes, many places wont install parts you bring, or will not warranty them. I recommend asking people for a import shop they recommend that is not the stealership or a chain shop. Go talk to them, I think you often get better service and more flexibility, but use your judgement.

Ideally, you do it in someones garage over a weekend and save $500+, but if you dont have the experience (or someone who does), a place to work on it and the proper tools, don't mess with it. The transfer case is not really an issue, but you generally have to pull the torsion bars and use a tranny jack as they are big and heavy. Not hard work, but a fair amount of it.

 

B

[OR99.5Speed]

Yeah, both great ideas.

 

Being a college freshman out-of-state, I am new to the area. I could drive the 700 miles home Thanksgiving break and go to a shop there, but that is just asking for the clutch to crap out with luggage and people in the car on the highway at night in the rain in a different state... My karma isn't good enough to do that, lol!

 

I probably will ask Aamco, etc. and would be pleased if they would use my parts, but I really would have a hard time trusting them. I would love to find an import place and pay him a healthy amount of labor. I just want the OEM parts, and would love to order from Dave. I may ask body shops, etc. what a good repair shop is around here.

 

Also, since clutch fluid is brake fluid, would this be a good time to go the ATE fluid route? I would only do this if the job requires the fluid to be drained. Thanks!

 

 

P.S.- Check out what Dave told me about my truck!!!

General Forum

Edited November 16, 2005 by OR99.5Speed

[94extreme]

not sure if you can go to ATF for the clutch. i'd at least dump the old fluid since you're doing the clutch.. start all new!

[OR99.5Speed]

not sure if you can go to ATF for the clutch. i'd at least dump the old fluid since you're doing the clutch.. start all new!

Haha, my fault, not ATF as in tranny fluid, ATE is a brand of performance brake fluid. I think it's called ATE Super Blue, its a performance fluid with a higher boiling point and better feel, response, etc.

 

Here it is:

ATE

[94extreme]

sorry my bad. YES!!! do it.

 

when i googles ATE i got a bunch of stuff that didn't seem related. so i thought you ment ATF.

Edited November 16, 2005 by mzxtreme

[Slick]

as all the above mentions. For the sagging: for less than $150 and a couple hours, get the JGC coils and some Rancho 5000 shocks (coil p/n PA8360513 (FCS782V) and shock P/N PO6005995 (RS5116) the first p/n is Kragen/Schuckers number, the second in parentases is the original p/n....

 

As for the shocking... I am with B.. here in Cali in summer I get azpped pretyt often with wearing polyester type basketball shorts and having cheapie seat covers.. sucks don't it?

 

The clutch.. again, I put a new clutch (which included the t/o bearing) in my Pathy which works great for $178 again, from Kragen p/n PA6128656 (MU476951) and that included the t/o bearing....

 

couldn't help ya with the rear tire carrier sensor.. I don't have one on my 92...

 

oh yeah!! definitely have your flywheel resurfaced.. I paid $35 for mine and it made the world of difference as my slave cylinder had managed to spew oil all up in my bell housing and all over ym clutch, so my old clutch got hot and so my flywheel was not so purty.. lot cheaper than a new flywheel and works like a charm

 

I guess that's it.... good luck!! -study-

 

oh.. and someone backed into my rear bumper a week ago too.. bastids! :furious:

 

don't let anymore drunks in or near your pathy.. they sound destructive!

Edited November 16, 2005 by Slick

[OR99.5Speed]

as all the above mentions. For the sagging: for less than $150 and a couple hours, get the JGC coils and some Rancho 5000 shocks (coil p/n PA8360513 (FCS782V) and shock P/N PO6005995 (RS5116) the first p/n is Kragen/Schuckers number, the second in parentases is the original p/n....

 

Wait, wait, wait! You know I own an R50, right? I thought the ZJ coils worked only on the WD21 Pathys. I was planning on getting a set of OEM rear coils from the parts guy, Dave B. because in a year or so I can just go OME or AC. But if the ZJ coils work I would be interested.

[94extreme]

don't know if they (heep coild) would work on r50. never heard of anyone being able to do that on here.

[OR99.5Speed]

don't know if they (heep coild) would work on r50. never heard of anyone being able to do that on here.

Yeah, I didn't think so. Thanks though, Slick.

 

I called some shops today. There is a local shop, Autotech, which I have never seen but understand that it is a somewhat country father and son operation. Thats fine. They quoted me 5.5 hours of work for $55/hour. Thats around what, $300 for a clutch job? That doesn't seem bad, and it includes resurfacing the flywheel.

 

I also asked him if I can order ATE blue brake fluid and Hawk pads, he said they would do it.

 

About that metallic sound, he offered a good idea. He said that some of the VGs have the idler pulley go, he said from the description that was probably what was happening.

 

Any suggestions? Thanks for the help guys and gals!

[OR99.5Speed]

Just called Dave B. on the idler pulley pricing.

The A/C pulley is $38.

The Power Steering pulley is $69.53. Don't think that one is the problem.

The A/C belt is $13.90.

 

For about 10k miles, whenever I turn on the A/C i get an unbelievably loud groaning. Golden Isles Nissan said it probaly was the compressor clutch. Well, Dave said it was probably the A/C idler pulley. I also know that I need to replace the belt from when I got the Optima and saw how worn the A/C belt was.

 

I think I'm also gonna order the A/C pulley and belt.

[Precise1]

They quoted me 5.5 hours of work for $55/hour. Thats around what, $300 for a clutch job? That doesn't seem bad, and it includes resurfacing the flywheel.

 

While I have not done a clutch on an R50, that seems like a fine deal. As long as they give you some kind of warranty, I jump on it !! Sooner the better...

 

B