Casey.T Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 Ok, After the Alignment. Get done with the work stuff, take the boys to the inital Scout Meeting. Time for some fun, little 15-20 mile trip to see how shes driving. Shes got some Pep even with the 33s on. Pull the hills heading North out of Spokane NP, better than the 95SE does Get up on the flat spot, set the Cruise and get cumpfy.......................not more than .5 mile after setting the curise, there is a sputter then nothing.................. Engine dies, all the lights are on, no bang or crash...........oh SH!T Get off on a side road with a Lamp, Look underneath, clean as a whislte look under the hood no loose wires all looks as it should. OK lets see if its one of our many little quirks, its been sitting for like 9 months, Its a Pathy it will restart................ Turns over np but none of the normal clatter you hear on the top side.............. I am betting timing chain??? :confused: I will ask the previous owner in the morning if they ever did it. Shes my boss I was able to get ahold of my friend Adam and got it on the trailer, getting it into the garage was the high point of the evening -bounce- Off loaded it from the trailer about 4 driveways up the hill from mine -bounce- and free rolled it all the way to the hump, little push and bingo it was in where it needed to be. Any feed back on my guess would be appreciated -alcohol- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 My guess would be the same, the bad news is since you tried to crank it over again after it stopped you probably have bent valves now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 I'm not sure about the lack of noise when you try to start it, but in terms of the stall, mine did the same thing to me one time, and it was the fuel pump. Might be worth a look, if you haven't checked that already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 If you haven't already, run the codes. When mine did that, I thought timing belt too as I was happily driving along when the engine just died. Cranked over fine, but no fire. Turns out my problem was the Crank Angle Sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 I'm guessing it is not the timing belt. (also hoping) I'd check fuel delivery, ignition spark after checking the ECU codes if they do not pin point it. Definitely ask about the timing belt regardless !! :o B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 13, 2005 Author Share Posted October 13, 2005 I will run the ECU as soon as I get home, 92 its under the front passenger seat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 Driver's side on my 95 I believe... Well, only two choices, I'm sure you'll find it... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 Thats the reading break down... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 hmmmm I'm gonna go against B and say the timing belt. It might be other things, but like you said, you have no idea of it's past maitainence, and who knows the last time it was changed. It happened right after you were climbing a hill, and if it was old and worn, this may have streched it past it's point. My other clue is the turning over. If it's doing that, then most likely the fuel system is ok, but don't rule that out either. The reason I say that is a clogged filter will sputter before it dies, it's a gradual thing, not snap. As prior mentioned, see if the ECU fires anything at you, grab a new fuel filter just in case, and hope for the best. Good luck bud. M.M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 14, 2005 Author Share Posted October 14, 2005 ECU Code 55 = No Malfunction. When I turn the Key on You can hear a electrical sound and feel it on the passengers side, I am assuming it is the fuel pump. Fuel filter appears to be newer, not as much of the typical grit and grim on it, but I will grab one tomorrow just for sh!ts and g!ggles. Can you pop the distributor cap and see if the rotar spins freely to check the belt? Whats funny: In the past when the pathy broke down, there was nothing that prevented me from paying someone $$$$$ to get it fixed NOW!!! Other than not having it for Opening Week End of Deer season is however Frustrating :furious: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 Nah, distributor is gear driven off the crank, so that won't do you any good. Venison(sp?) Mmmmmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 14, 2005 Author Share Posted October 14, 2005 (edited) Gear Driven???? then finding TDC should not be an issue with the cap off??? and if the belt has skipped/broken, i should just have to align the marks on the cam gears and we are off and running again. Venison is not a problem with "Deer Park" 20 min away and a very friendly farmer or 2. ECU codes not indicating anything. Any other suggestions before I crack a Mike's and dive in?????? Edited October 14, 2005 by Casey.T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 Nope, not at all. The crank rotates 2:1 in relation to the cams. For every 1 cam revolution, the crank goes around twice. Basic 4 stroke engine. Yes you could line up #1 TDC from the distributor, but unless you pull a valve cover, you might be 180 degrees out with your cams. That means your exhaust vavles are opening when the pig is trying to fire, you run into clearance issues and all sorts of nastys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 Did the speed of the cranking change much? Like could you hear it turning over much faster than usual? I've toasted a timing belt and a chain in my day, and both times when you crank it, its a higher pitched sound and it turns over much faster. I guess thats cause there is no valvetrain and such turning as well. If that's the case, like was said before, you've probably killed some valves and that sucks. If not, back to the easier/cheaper stuff. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 Ding Ding Ding.......... The winner is............................ Wheel puller will be here shortly. Any Easy way to check for bent valves? Any easy way to remove the drivers side valve cover?? Or do i get to take off the intake and everything else with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 Really only proper way to check for bent valves is by pullin the heads. You could put it all back together and pray it didn't bugger anything up. If you quit drivin right after it died, there shouldn't be any damage, as long as the motor straight died and didn't wind down from high rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 MM, Best I can tell, it went from a little over 2k rpm to dead, now with the road noise, and as fast as I could get it into neutral. Dunno the engine just went dead no noises over the road. Curise Control was on and my first instinct was to get it into neutral, then look for a place to park. I do have a Compression Tester available for use. This is where it stands now: Old Belt (or what was left of it) removed. Passenger Cam aligned with marks on the timing shroud, V-cover off. I am not sure if it is the correct rotation for #1 TDC Rotor pointing at mark inside D-Cap (i did need to loosen the adjusting bolt to get it to point directly there) it did move when I rotated the drivers side cam to the alignment mark. Crank is aligned as well. As far as #1 being at TDC, I am not positive it is set. My best guess will be to remove plug #1 and slowly bring the piston up to the top. Check the Valve locations. Open to suggestions on locating #1 TDC :help: What is the worst that could happen? Engine goes Boom More!!! (make sure extinguisher is available for use) Price Check on VG30E with Thorley's, 300ZX Heads, JWT Cams set to rock and roll for the 95SE, and put the 95's engine in the 92XE. (Having 2 does have its moments -bounce- ) If this was the everyday driver it would have went straight the shop reguardless of the cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 Put it together, and turn it by hand a couple of times to see if there's any binding. If there is, then DON'T start it. It may be tough to move by hand, but not impossible. You could also pull the ignition wire from the distributor, and bump the starter a little bit until you've gone around a couple of rotations. If you're 180 degrees off, you won't be able to turn the motor by hand past a certain point, as far as I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 19, 2005 Author Share Posted October 19, 2005 Well someone once gave me some words of wisdom about checking and replacing things while your in there. So I was 10 min to late tonight to get the new water pump. This was the best looking water pump I have ever removed. Fact I do not beleive it had more than 30k miles on it. But hey im there and will not make that mistake 2x. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 20, 2005 Author Share Posted October 20, 2005 I put in the new Water Pump. No core fee so I have a spare for future use. Double checked all the alignment marks on the cam's, no visable mark on the oil pump housing, removed Plug #1 and verified the piston was at the top with the Key way on the crank almost at the 12 oclock position. Distributor pointing at #1. Slipped on the new belt with Alignment marks matching all 3 points, and tightend the tensioner. Hand cranked everthing around looked GREAT, no funny sounds, all appears to be functional. Put enough of it back together to see if she would Light up. . . . . . . . Nuffin, no back fires, no sputter. Got lots of spark, plenty of fuel. ECU Code 55...............Everything is set up for per the Book, Chiltons and Haynes. Suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 Ok couple of quick checks. Sounds like you got everything back together right, but it is possible your crank is still 180 out. Get a compression tester, and hook it up to #1 in the spark plug hole. Not sure what the reading should be, but you will be able to tell if you are getting compression or not. When you turn it over, do it by hand, just to be on the safe side. Start at number one, and do all 6 cylinders. It'll be a pain for some, but if have any question about bent valves, this will give you an answer. If number one is off, I'd say redo your belt so that it is right, then try to start it and get her started. My guess would be you're still 180 out. If you had bent valves, it would still fire on the ones that are ok. If you have further question on whether or not you have it right, pull a valve cover, and watch the valves as you turn the motor over by hand. You can tell from deduction which are intake and which are exhaust, so when it's at #1 and both are closed as the piston is comming up, it is getting ready to fire and you can double check with the distributor. Good luck mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 Oh ho hum, just remember something else. Just cause you get one cam lined up doesn't mean the other is. Hate to say it, but you're gonna have to pull both valve covers if you are going to look at the valves. Once again, compression check both banks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 21, 2005 Author Share Posted October 21, 2005 I had a client who does engine work for a living look at it. He even got some info directly from one of the Nissan Mech's. its all set correctly. When cranking it by hand there is very little resistance from the compression. We re did the set up for the timing alignment and it was even easier to crank. I will get the passenger Head off this weekend but I have an awful feeling its gonna be a engine Swap This would be a perficet time to install some Headers, but I dont think the budget will allow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pathyman95 Posted October 22, 2005 Share Posted October 22, 2005 My dad had an 88 pathy and it would run for a little while then stop what happened was the water pump had a small leak it would leak on the timing belt causing the belt to slip and it would sputter out and die their their was never any sign of leaking it was so small put a new water pump 200$ laterafter thinking it was the fuel pump and it wasnt it ran like a champ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted October 22, 2005 Share Posted October 22, 2005 If your heads are shot it's not a engine swap. Heck, go pick up a set of Jim wolf heads and port and polish em on. Since she's down and out, might as well pull the ECU and send that in as well for an upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 24, 2005 Author Share Posted October 24, 2005 (edited) $560 for JWT "CAMS", ok, +$200 for a Valve Job= $760 on a motor with 224215 miles, 15 with the Calmini lift. I had actually looked into doing that, have someone here locally that I trust to do the Valve Job. He is the one that suggested the swap, he will also provide 2 engine stands and the hoist for the day it comes out. Dunno, No $$$$$ in the Fun Budget ATM. I thought I was done with the basics until I broke it out having some fun, not going for a simple road test. Another thought was, go ahead with the swap, no core fee, leaves me with a Motor to play with and build as $$$$ allow. Once it is completed drop that Baby in the 95SE. Edited October 24, 2005 by Casey.T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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