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DIY low-profile aluminum roof rack


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Howdy all. Thought I'd share a project I whipped up on Friday before heading out for a weekend camp out.

 

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The goal was simply low profile rack. I'm not a huge fan of the baskets that are out there, and how high they stick up above the rails. I found one low profile rack that I liked to some degree, mainly because it's just about the perfect width to sit between the rails that came on later R50s. I figured I'd just drill some holes on the side plates of the rack and use some channel nuts to secure it. But, I hadn't been able to pull the trigger on it.

 

Instead, I opted to hit up the local big box:

2- 48"L x 2"W x 1/8"T angle stock

6- 36"L x 3/4"W x 1/16"T square tube

8- 1/2"-13 x 1-1/2"L carriage bolts

8- 1/2" flat washers, lock washers, nuts

 

I used 1/4" rivets to secure the tubes to the angle stock, and then used aluminum welding rods from Harbor Freight and a MAPP torch to braze everything solid. The center rib is secured using M6x1.0 rivnuts and suitable hardware. Total cost for aluminum and hardware was about $115. I already had all other materials and tools, but they can be had for relatively low costs.

 

The side rail has holes for rivets and carriage bolts. The OE rails have a minor arch to them, so I drilled the outer holes centered on the 2" stock (11/16" diameter), while the inner holes are about 1/8" higher (and 3/4" diameter). The holes allow the square seat of the carriage bolt to clear nicely and allow some tolerance for the arch. I thought about drilling smaller holes and filing them square, but the effort wasn't warranted...it ended up being a perfect amount for the washers to sit flat.

 

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The square seat of the carriage bolts are a perfect fit for the rail channel.

 

I cut the side rails to 30" so that I could keep the oval OE crossbars. The cross tubes were cut to 35-7/8" to make a 36-1/8"W rack. The tubes were drilled to mate with the rails for riveting, and a center hole for the rib.

 

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Top view, riveted:

 

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Bottom view, riveted and bolted:

 

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Doing a simple floor test, with blocks under the side rails, it supported my full body weight (250 lbs) on center with minimal deflection. But, I also designed it to use the older OE cross bars as overload support...considering that it bolts to the upper side rails, and then can rest on the lower cross bar, which has its own rail for roof distribution, this thing is completely solid.

 

I should've taken some pics of it loaded up with gear, but it withstood freeway speeds and rough dirt roads without issue. I also secured all ratchet clamps to the rack as well, both on the tube and angle stock...no issues. The only 'correction' I had to make was putting something in front of a gear box on the rack because the wind deflection from it was causing my air dam to flutter violently...an effect of the rack, but not a defect of it. I inspected the brazes, and they held up solid, so I'm pleased.

 

I need to modify my shovel and pulaski axe mount to work with this...the 1/2" carriage bolts make excellent mounting points, so I already have a few ideas on how to make that work.

Edited by hawairish
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Is anyone familiar with how to get ahold of the 2004 rack? I have the two cross bars for the 2001, but I really like the design of the rack on the 2004, saying Pathfinder and all on it.

Is the rack compatible with the 2001?

I live pretty close to a dealership if that's where I should look, but looking online never seems to bring up anything.

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Is anyone familiar with how to get ahold of the 2004 rack? I have the two cross bars for the 2001, but I really like the design of the rack on the 2004, saying Pathfinder and all on it.

Is the rack compatible with the 2001?

I live pretty close to a dealership if that's where I should look, but looking online never seems to bring up anything.

 

Junk yard is where I would look.

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Best route is the local JY. Mine came with this style of course, but I pulled one for FerrariOwner123 a while back for around $100 or so. IIRC, it's all bolt-on, but it's been a while since I thought about it. I want to say that the lower rails (where your current cross bars are) are the same as mine, and the newer style just adds upper rails. You just need some Allen bits to remove everything, pretty simple. Just don't remove the mounts underneath all the rail points...if you do, the nuts that hold it in place on the roof will fall into the headliner! Also, to remove the front and rear plastic caps on the rails, you just need to wiggle them hard while applying upward pressure. They're held in by friction clips.

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Also, to remove the front and rear plastic caps on the rails, you just need to wiggle them hard while applying upward pressure. They're held in by friction clips.

 

You'll need a torx bit for those (T20 or T25, I can't remember).

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