CortlandCH

Lol noted

Might just put down a couple bucks to have someplace evacuate the system and refill it with new refrigerant. Much cheaper than trying to get a new compressor that's for sure.

Makes a lot of sense. This Friday I'm putting in my SFD and lifting it 5", so hopefully the next dent in my wallet are some 265/75/16s cause that's what I've been looking for. They just look awesome on your pathy, and larger than 32s so I had to ask.

It became habitual when I worked in a tire shop here in Colorado. We pretty much always jacked at the pinch.

Yeah the first time I did it, the pinch weld crunched in and that sucks. No further damage, it just saddens me haha. Sounds awesome, I figured the weight would be evenly distributed it just seems very strange. Thanks a ton

Epic build :O I wish I could afford air lockers like that! I know it's a crazy question, but where did you typically jack up the rear of the vehicle? The body kind of ends toward the rear wheels so last time I worked on dropping my rear axle, it was really sketchy work using jack stands on the pinch weld of the vehicle nearest to the rear... The red circles. Is it technically safe to hold up the entire rear end by the "Rear jack safety points?" It just seems like a weird place to balance the vehicle... even if the front two tires are on the ground it feels weird that it might roll back or something. I don't know, it sat like that for hours and nothing happened but still haha.

'm trying to read the sidewalls, but it's a tad difficult... what size tires are those? I'm really wanting to upgrade to some 32s instead of my cute little 30s

Yeah I mean right now it's really only concerning because of the noise, but it doesn't seem to be seizing up or anything, and the AC still blasts cold air like a champ, so I guess I'll let it ride. Just sucks though because AC stuff really isn't something to do at home, and a shop's gonna charge a lot to replace it if I have to... And Colorado isn't always friendly with the heat.

I'd listened to it but I'll double check which bearings it might be. Only reason I said it isn't serviceable is I know they build the pulley and clutch and everything altogether, and there isn't a separate pulley that I can find for it. As for the sound, its really hard to describe. You know the sound of frogs/toads in the distance? Literally like that haha

Recently I have been going out and starting my pathy like normal, transfer case at 2H, transmission in park. For whatever reason when I start though, the ATP light is on until I shift into drive. Anyone seen this issue before? Maybe just a bad sensor?

Volt gauge should be simple. Oil pressure might be a little trickier since I'm not quite sure what signal the oil pressure sending unit puts out... It might be binary, saying there either is enough pressure or not enough. Regardless, I want to see if anyone else has done them, cause a voltage meter would be useful.

Everything jyeager said. If the air box filter isnt protecting the intake, your last defense is that maf guard.

Side note, where do you have it taking in air? Like I said, I want to move the intake up somewhere a little higher so it's not sucking in air from the wheel well, but I dont know exactly the best way to do that and make it able to either avoid sucking in water, or get rid of it quickly. I dont really want a big snorkel. I dont plan on going through feet of water any time soon.

That's interesting. The air intake is taking air in from the top of the air box? Until I build my new intake (planning on making some sort of low-profile snorkel), I've had a cone filter running at the edge where the original intake was, and I'm not having any overheating issues in the hot weather. Typical cooling system checks: Any leaks in the system? Are you able to do a pressure check? How full is your overflow tank? How long has it been since you have flushed your coolant? Imminent water pump failure? Thermostat failure? As much as cold air helps combustion, it SHOULDNT have a dramatic effect on engine heat. The air temperature sensor from the factory air intake should read the temperature of the air coming in so that the computer can adjust how the engine runs, and the MAF should detect how much air is entering. Both shouldn't impact engine heat. The last thing could be temp sending unit, if it's reading incorrectly. All in all, sure, hot air doesn't help combustion or gas mileage, but its really up to the cooling system to do its job making sure the engine stays at the right temp.

Don't mean to keep reviving this, but just thought I'd make a conclusion on how it went for me. I sent them an email stating everything we said here, and they got back to me with an invoice within a few hours. I called up the number, and the lady on the phone was very nice, asked me for payment information, and let me know they would have it machined and sent out as soon as possible. I expected about a week to get it in... The box was on my doorstep the next day. Superior service from these guys, and the parts look great. Just THAT much closer to finally putting together the SFD. Thanks everyone!

My pathy's acting up again. The AC works great, feels cold, no leaks, and so on. It's the factory compressor on the engine, so I mean it's had some years (16 years...). Essentially what's happening, is when the AC clutch engages, there's an intermittent rattle from inside of it. If I can get clear video, I will, but it doesn't happen all the time, and it isn't always loud. What's strange, is that when sitting by the engine with the hood open, it's hard to hear, but from 10 feet away, you can hear it clearly over the hum of the engine. Anyways, I know that's not much for information, but I was wondering if anyone has had a similar issue? I have oiled the compressor, no results. Refrigerant is full, pressure is fine, cold air is blowing. Think the little guy's got bearing issues? If so... I have to completely replace the compressor, because it's not serviceable.

Rocking a 3" rear, 2.5" front with spacers. The geometry will be fine with camber bolts. Really, that's your best bet. If you go any higher, you have to have custom spacers to be able to compensate for the strut mount angle. 2" won't throw off much if you get a camber bolt set. Also, keep in mind that it'll be a tad tricky mounting back on the struts, and getting them to bolt onto the wheel backing plate because of the extra 2" down the struts are, and your CV axles will be at a little bit more of an angle. That was honestly the hardest part for me at first, because attaching the strut bolts to the back plate will be much different than when they came off. 2" lift should be rather simple though.

I dont have any specified backspacing on my wheels unfortunately. Just 2" spacers. Like I said, if 32s save me from having to do a ton of trimming and extra cost, I'll settle

I might settle for 32s so I don't have to worry much about rubbing, but yeah the 30s are going to look little with the lift. I'm doing a 4" SFD, and I already have 3" spacers on the rear, so now I'll get some AC lift springs to go up 2" more on the rear. Panhard drop bracket too of course. For the front, just 5" spacers that I'm going to fab up with an angle to keep the alignment... So yeah that's my plan for the lift and tires lol.

Without pulling mine off, I can't really find the specs on their dimensions. If you're trying to put new ones in, you could do a parts search on most automotive part websites, or go to a local auto parts store and have them grab you a set.

Are you just trying to get new ones? I wouldn't rig anything up if I were you. http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-17191-hw14119.aspx?year=2001&make=Nissan&model=Pathfinder&origin=&parttype=Brake%2520Caliper%2520Bolt&position=Front That will show you anywhere near you that sells the bolts. I'm a parts specialist at Advance Auto, so I know these parts are easy to find, but if you find anything cheaper or anything, go for it. Dorman makes pretty good products tho, that's a huge portion of our stock.

Sounds awesome. I'll probably hunt around my local tire shops too and see what they run. I used to work for Discount Tire, and I know some of the brands they carried and such. Heck, if they're in my range, 32s will work just fine.

I'm coming close to having everything I need for my 5" lift, but now I'll feel silly rocking my little 30s. They're NEW All Terrain tires, seriously just bought them in November, but I really really want 33s now... Is it worth selling the new tires and upgrading to 33s? That extra 1.5" radial difference will be good for keeping the axles and control arms just that much higher up, but damn are tires expensive... Plus, if I get 33s, even with a 5" lift, will there be a lot of rubbing? Any thoughts? Ideas of what tires to buy when I don't have thousands to throw into big rubber circles?