What should I do next?

[fleurys]

So guess what guys? Apparently Old Man Emu is no longer selling kits for the R50. They are only selling 2005+ what the hell am I supposed to do now for a lift lol

 

Did you look at my products ?

 

click on my signature

[NovaPath]

Is that the AC 2" lift? I only have 245/75/16s though and they're brand new. I've heard this kit is a B to install and requires a lot of "oops my trucks is already in pieces but I need this whatever that isn't included"

Install is no different than the ome kits, they are all springs. Easiest to install is Fleurys, great quality product but I chose to use springs as mine were already wore out, instead of spacers.

[PrecisionX]

I was considering getting a Fleury skid. My suspension original and I have 126k on struts/shocks/springs. I haven't tackled a suspension lift diy ever and don't really know what the hell im doing in regard to it or if I have the tools to take it on.

[PrecisionX]

So I'm curious about the lift options I have. I'm running 245/75s that only have 3,000 miles on them and now I can't do OME lift because it's not available. That leaves me with AC 2 in I guess?

 

My concern is that I am still on OEM shocks/struts at 128k. Everyone is telling me that I need to replace those while the truck is getting the lift done to avoid spending double having them done at the same time.

 

So that leaves me with needing the lift kit, shocks and struts and to have it installed because I can't compress on my own, don't have a garage and or the space. I don't really even know where to buy this kit whichever one I decide on

[pepperjack26]

Rear end is easy. I did the shocks, springs, and Fleury's 1.5 spacers in the rear in my gravel driveway (no cover). Drive up ramps, floor jack, jack stands and a craftsman socket set were used. I did the rear springs first - the shocks are simple. Later I did the spacers.

Front is a different story. If you are replacing the struts, do the springs at the same time. If you are like me, you use a shop as they have the tools and space. I provided the OME springs, and actually the KYB struts as Amazon was cheaper than his Napa source. Having them done at the same time saves labor if you plan to replace the springs down the line. Maybe all you need are the rear springs - your call. Make sure with the strut install you have the strut bearings also done, I had to go back for those. Also, camber bolts should be stocked by your mechanic, and he can do an alignment if necessary.

I was able to put small spacers in the front struts in my driveway, but for anything longer than 3/8, you will need longer strut bolts installed - so have it done at the shop with the strut install.

 

TLDR: have all the front stuff done at once, in the shop. You can do the rear stuff on your own.

[PrecisionX]

Rear end is easy. I did the shocks, springs, and Fleury's 1.5 spacers in the rear in my gravel driveway (no cover). Drive up ramps, floor jack, jack stands and a craftsman socket set were used. I did the rear springs first - the shocks are simple. Later I did the spacers.

Front is a different story. If you are replacing the struts, do the springs at the same time. If you are like me, you use a shop as they have the tools and space. I provided the OME springs, and actually the KYB struts as Amazon was cheaper than his Napa source. Having them done at the same time saves labor if you plan to replace the springs down the line. Maybe all you need are the rear springs - your call. Make sure with the strut install you have the strut bearings also done, I had to go back for those. Also, camber bolts should be stocked by your mechanic, and he can do an alignment if necessary.

I was able to put small spacers in the front struts in my driveway, but for anything longer than 3/8, you will need longer strut bolts installed - so have it done at the shop with the strut install.

 

TLDR: have all the front stuff done at once, in the shop. You can do the rear stuff on your own.

So this is the set up I was thinking of running, let me know if I'm missing parts.

 

RockyRoad has an OME 1.75 HD kit for Feb 1999+ Models with OUT struts for $529 or WITH GR2 for $900 ish. I can get the KYB GR2 off amazon for $150 shipped (both) and get the kit bringing it to $700 ish.

 

I was quoted $650 for a shop to do the install front and rear OR I could tackle the rear myself and take it to the shop for the front? What random bits would I need other than a 100 piece socket/wrench set with a breaker bar, Jack stands and ramps? Should I even bother doing the rear myself only to drive 45 minutes to have the front done?

[XPLORx4]

$650 is ridiculous. Find a different shop that will install customer-supplied parts. Don't tell them it's a suspension lift. Just tell them you want to replace the struts and have new coil springs installed (because your current factory springs are "sagging"), and you'll be supplying the parts.

 

For example, my local Pep Boys Auto Service center will install struts for $90 each. That's $180. My guess is that they could probably source the same KYB GR2 for about the same price as amazon, so you're looking at $180 (labor) plus $150 (struts) plus $529/2 ($265 for front springs). They might add in an extra hour of labor since they have to remove the old springs from the strut compressor and put the new ones in.

 

Consider installing the rear springs first before taking it into a shop for the front. Replacing the front struts/springs without proper tools is very difficult without proper tools. I wouldn't recommend it. With a wall-mounted strut compressor and air tools, and I'm able to service my front struts in about an hour per wheel, start to finish. With air tools and the use of cheap (but dangerous) coil spring compressors, you can get this done in about 2-3 hours per wheel. Without air tools, you won't be able to compress the new springs at all.

 

You (with the help of a buddy) can do the rear springs yourself in about an hour or so using a floor jack and jack stands, unless you have a lot of rust and corrosion on your rear axle. Then it'll take longer. You'll probably need only a 3/8" drive ratchet, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm sockets or box wrenches. A breaker bar and liquid wrench is also helpful if you don't have air tools.

 

Place floor jack under rear diff, jack up until you can put jack stands under the frame. Remove rear tires. Unbolt lower shock mounts. Unbolt swaybar brackets on the axle and let the swaybar swing freely away from the axle. Loosen the brake line manifold from the axle (so that when you drop the axle, the brake line doesn't stretch). Lower the diff until the springs are loose enough to fall out on their own.

 

Position the floor jack under the left rear shock mount and jack it up so that the axle articulates. This will help give more clearance on the right side to install the right rear spring. It will be a challenge to insert, and you may need to have someone apply weight on the brake drum to give you enough clearance to put the new spring in.

 

Once the spring is in, move the floor jack under the right shock mount and do the same thing with left spring.

 

With both springs in, move the floor jack beneath the diff and jack it up until you can reattach the lower shock bolts, the swaybar mounts, and the brake line manifold.

 

If the differential breather hose became detached from on top of the diff, reattach it.

 

Reinstall tires, remove jack stands. You're done!

[PrecisionX]

That $650 figure was not counting the parts I would be supplying. So I'd be roughly paying $700 ish in parts and $650 for labor in this guys shop. I have all of those tools. I can't imagine the back being done first will be weird to drive to a shop to have the front done. Seems like that's what everyone else is doing. My truck is a Texas truck that only spent the last 4 years or so garaged in New England, my running boards came off super easy, the bolts were silver in color still.

[Rebelord]

Is there a Auto Hobby shop by you? They would have all those tools and rates should be about $20hr to rent a lift. Then just do it yourself.

 

If not, have a friend help. Do the rear springs, take off struts. Take them with new struts and springs and mount to Pepboys. Have them assemble your new struts with new springs (have to re use upper spring perch) mount for you. Mine does that for about $20 each strut. Just make sure when they do, they clock the upper spring perch correctly.

[hawairish]

I'm becoming a seasoned vet at this stuff Just did my wife's Kia and it's amazing how much easier things are when you don't have to remove or work around all the crap above the strut towers. I think I had both struts done in about an 90 mins, wheels up to wheels down.

 

Personally, I've never had an issue with the basic compressors, even on OME HD...those just took a slightly different approach to get the hooks as far apart as possible. If the right precautions are taken (treat it like a loaded gun), then it's an easy task. But, it really is a personal preference.

 

The rear spring install that XPLORx4 described is what I've always done...very simple with a few floor jacks, a good floor jack, and hand tools.

 

For the labor costs you're talking, I could never justify that amount if you have any wrenching abilities. I mean, you could buy a jack and stands from HF for <$150 and DIY in a few hours, pocketing the rest...for more parts of course.

[PrecisionX]

I decided to do a little cosmetic work today. I have yellow Lamin-X fog light covers on the way and got my paint on today. Yay or nay?

 

 

 

 

 

[Megaton]

I like the black out look. I'm considering doing mine that way to.

[PrecisionX]

I called pep boys and they gave me a ridiculous figure of $540 something to do struts/springs. Another shop said they'd put struts and springs on with alignment for $340.00.

[PrecisionX]

And today. No more license plate bracket and no more clear fogs.