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LED WTF?


Sparkyonbass
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Here's something strange (at least to me) that happened on my pathfinder yesterday.

 

I installed new LED interior lights (both dome, map, and both floor lights). They are nice and bright... really bright...

 

But something odd occurred. I get out of the vehicle and close the door. All the lights go out except for the passenger floor light. It dims 1/2 way and stays on. Now I get back in and close the door. All the lights go out again except for the passenger floor. I disconnect the light and... the driver floor and dome come on at 1/2 brightness. I open the door and they go to full brightness...

 

I put back in the incandescent bulb for the passenger floor light and they all go out when I close the door.

 

Another funny thing is that when I'm sitting in the Pathfinder and the passenger floor is at 1/2 brightness (and applies when the dome and driver floor light are the same) and I put the key in the switch and turn it on accessory or on, it goes out (doors are closed the whole time). But when I turn the switch off the passenger floor comes on at 1/2 brightness...

 

So... wtf? What's going on here? Do I need to put a resistor on one of my lights or something?

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I was helping a friend to build an LED sensor kit for his sump pump and we discovered that many LEDs do need an inline resistor to punt to voltage up or down into a definite state. The LEDs themselves don't draw enough resistance to do that without help and will sit with one foot in both states. As current will find the path of least resistance and take it; in this case: both paths are most likely being taken. Usually a small resistor equal to about 40% of the LEDs amperage will pop it into a definite state.

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here's another replace the 1157s and your cruise will not work

So if I convert my brake lights to LED I lose my cruise? Is that even with error free LEDs?

 

I was helping a friend to build an LED sensor kit for his sump pump and we discovered that many LEDs do need an inline resistor to punt to voltage up or down into a definite state. The LEDs themselves don't draw enough resistance to do that without help and will sit with one foot in both states. As current will find the path of least resistance and take it; in this case: both paths are most likely being taken. Usually a small resistor equal to about 40% of the LEDs amperage will pop it into a definite state.

So that's why it goes to 1/2 brightness when I close my door with the key off. That makes sense.

 

Either a resistor is needed or get 'error free' LEDs.

I don't think they make "error free" 3175 or 74 LED replacements... Good thing I can access the wiring pretty easily to install. If they make a "error free" 3175, that would be easiest to change over since they are easiest to access. I'll have to look when I get the chance.

 

Thanks for the info guys!

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I changed all my dash lights to leds and I didn't have any problems or needing resistors and such. The turn signal green arrows on the dash blink more crisply than normal filament bulbs, which looks great.

I bet that looks awesome! I'm planning on doing that eventually. the dash lights already have a resistor in the circuit. It's called the dimmer control.

 

Now I just need to find out what amperage the resistor needs to be in order to do the job. And since they are all linked, I guess it doesn't matter what light I put it next to. The one at the passenger floorboard says 2 watts. The others are 3175 bulbs. So I just need to look them up and I'll have an idea on what to get.

 

I was helping a friend to build an LED sensor kit for his sump pump and we discovered that many LEDs do need an inline resistor to punt to voltage up or down into a definite state. The LEDs themselves don't draw enough resistance to do that without help and will sit with one foot in both states. As current will find the path of least resistance and take it; in this case: both paths are most likely being taken. Usually a small resistor equal to about 40% of the LEDs amperage will pop it into a definite state.

Is that 40% of the individual LED or of all the LEDs in the circuit?

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Well normal bulbs use something like 5w to power them, leds use only 1.2w so the power you save is 24% off your lighting. Yes the dash is a hell of a lot brighter. I got smd leds that have 9 leds on the actual bulb, so they are a 360 degree spread of light. Don't get the ones that only have one led on the end they are crap. They only shine forwards and you'll get what is known as 'hot spots' so only one section of the dash looks hell bright and you'll be able to see 40, 60 on the dash but everything else is dim.

I haven't changed every single bulb in there, there's though little tiny skinny bulbs that are bright enough. My truck doesn't have one of those dimmer wheels and yes I checked the centre vents, there is no dimmer wheel. My dash used to be so dark at night it was an effort just seeing the faint greenish glow.

With the leds you can just see them in dusk conditions, barely just noticable in sun but as soon as the sun dips over the horizon you can see them kick in.

I also did my centre air control display, there's a single bulb behind there which looks to be impossible to get at but I did a video a while back.

Edited by Terranovation
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  • 1 month later...

Thank you guys... I finally got around to finishing some of the LED lights... My a/c controls light up again and can be dimmed... My ash tray lights up again (I decided to go ahead with it since I was in there)... And all my dome and courtesy lights are now LED with no "current bleed" since I added the resistor...

 

You guys are amazing and helpful as always...

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