Sparkyonbass

Still running my cheap intake on my pathfinder. No issues and still good fuel economy (for a pathfinder). I'm about to come up on an emissions test soon. So we'll see how that goes.

Thank you guys... I finally got around to finishing some of the LED lights... My a/c controls light up again and can be dimmed... My ash tray lights up again (I decided to go ahead with it since I was in there)... And all my dome and courtesy lights are now LED with no "current bleed" since I added the resistor... You guys are amazing and helpful as always...

I just replaced the tires on my pathy... I'm almost ready for some trails...

Well crap... I just now saw this post. I'd love to go wheeling sometime..

The factory 70 amp alternator is defiantly too weak to handle the pull of electric fans. I know a 90-94 maxima alternator is stronger (90 amps) and a straight bolt/plug in (just swap the pully). What gen quest is your alternator from and does it need any adjustments to fit?

I bet that looks awesome! I'm planning on doing that eventually. the dash lights already have a resistor in the circuit. It's called the dimmer control. Now I just need to find out what amperage the resistor needs to be in order to do the job. And since they are all linked, I guess it doesn't matter what light I put it next to. The one at the passenger floorboard says 2 watts. The others are 3175 bulbs. So I just need to look them up and I'll have an idea on what to get. Is that 40% of the individual LED or of all the LEDs in the circuit?

I've seen several guys talk about the Doug thorley with 2.5" all the way back. I'm wanting to do that as well. I'm also planning on the electric radiator fan swap (with higher output alternator). Quick question on the cams... Can you still pass emissions with them in a vg30? I'm coming up on a timing belt water pump job and wondering if it would be worth it now, or will I have to wait till this old girl hits exemption status...

So if I convert my brake lights to LED I lose my cruise? Is that even with error free LEDs? So that's why it goes to 1/2 brightness when I close my door with the key off. That makes sense. I don't think they make "error free" 3175 or 74 LED replacements... Good thing I can access the wiring pretty easily to install. If they make a "error free" 3175, that would be easiest to change over since they are easiest to access. I'll have to look when I get the chance. Thanks for the info guys!

Here's something strange (at least to me) that happened on my pathfinder yesterday. I installed new LED interior lights (both dome, map, and both floor lights). They are nice and bright... really bright... But something odd occurred. I get out of the vehicle and close the door. All the lights go out except for the passenger floor light. It dims 1/2 way and stays on. Now I get back in and close the door. All the lights go out again except for the passenger floor. I disconnect the light and... the driver floor and dome come on at 1/2 brightness. I open the door and they go to full brightness... I put back in the incandescent bulb for the passenger floor light and they all go out when I close the door. Another funny thing is that when I'm sitting in the Pathfinder and the passenger floor is at 1/2 brightness (and applies when the dome and driver floor light are the same) and I put the key in the switch and turn it on accessory or on, it goes out (doors are closed the whole time). But when I turn the switch off the passenger floor comes on at 1/2 brightness... So... wtf? What's going on here? Do I need to put a resistor on one of my lights or something?

Headers will help a lot.

I bought one of those cheap intake kits on eBay for like $25. I mainly bought it for the pipe because my rubber intake boot was rotting away. And replacing it with another was not worth the $100 for a replacement (to me anyway). So I did that, I took the stupid baffle thing out of the drive side fender (it gave me another opening for the intake) and put a k&n filter in the stock air box. I have a noticeable increase in power and bottom end. I've only spent $65 on the whole intake system. I'm living in Atlanta and get roughly 16.5 mpg constant with traffic. The worst I've gotten with this intake is 15 mpg. I'm waiting for my next road trip to Tennessee to see what it can do with constant interstate with cruise control.

I can get simple cutting and welding done. At least for dirt cheap and probably for free(on a good day maybe). But looking at all the mounts and looking at what a few people have done (photos on Google help) I'm starting to think of just doing it all myself. I worked in machine shops a long time ago and did everything but weld and paint (I've painted elsewhere, I just didn't do it at the machine shop). I did a lot of cutting, grinding, and assisting the guys welding by helping move everything and line it all up for welding. I also did a lot in CAD design of racks and carts. One of the main cars I designed would handle a 6000 lb load and could be pushed by a person very easily while loaded. So I can design something overkill (but I need to be barrel of weight). So all I'd really need to get down is welding skills. And I've been wanting to learn that anyway. This might be another good reason to learn it. If I can get a good template, cut straight, and weld straight, then I could build a bumper. I had another crazy thought in all of this... I may just save myself a little effort and recycle 3 parts of my current factory grill guard. 1&2 being the headlight guards (the do protect the lights from branches pretty well). 3 would be the tube cross bar with the light mounts. I'd just build some beefy uprights to bolt them to. And looking at the back of my Pathfinder, I'm really thinking of doing a rear bumper as well. Mainly so I can move my licence plate up 2" and then move my hitch up 2" and move my 7 pin connector into the bumper. That would give me a freaking awesome departure angle. Heck, if I can pull this off, I might be able to help a bunch of wd21 owners out as well.

So what do we do since they don't make ARB bumpers for Nissan wd21 pathfinders anymore? Can we use the hardbody one? Do we have to mod it for a non-lifted pathy? And how hard would it be to mod if it needed? I'm not planning on lifting my pathfinder. It's still stock height. And what about TAG? I've seen mixed reviews. Have they cleaned up their act? I don't live far from there, so I can save money on shipping by just picking it up myself (and I can inspect it before it leaves their facility). I'm wanting to add a winch. But the tin foil equivalent parts on the front end won't hold up for recovery. I'd love to build one myself, but I don't have the ability (or knowledge yet) to weld. So doing one myself isn't an option right now. Any ideas or suggestions on what to do. I've gone through the forums but a lot of them are older and the companies that people list don't exist anymore or the parts are discontinued. The only thing I've seen is the hardbody ARB and TAG. Is this all that remains out there for the wd21 except for personal custom fabrication?

My friend has a R51 with a couple of issues... He helps me all the time with my WD21, so it's time to pay the piper... 1st issue... The auto climate control is acting funky... Say it's set to 70 degrees... It will be blowing cold on a hot summer day... Then out of nowhere it starts blowing freaking hot as you know where on the driver side only... The passenger side doesn't do it... You have to readjust the controls and it goes back to blowing cold... For a while... 2nd issue... Memory seats... They seem to auto reset themselves... Slot one goes back to the very first setting he programmed for himself... Slot two for his wife seems to not retain memory... It does it at random... Kinda aggravating... Bonus question... CD player (6 disk in dash) seems to kick out cd's when it's cold outside (just above freezing) until it warms up... And you can push it back in and it spits it right back out again... Again, 2007 Nissan Pathfinder Le R51 AUTO 4.0 Thanks guys... You all rock!

stupid ipad... It just entered the same thing twice...

So that's aluminum caps on top of nylon caps? Well that makes more sense than chrome... In later years Nissan put a metal cap on top of the nylon (from what I've read) to make them last longer... I think it's only the 94 and 95 that have them that way... I've checked my steering, I have several degrees I can extend the turning before I rub on the frame or fenders... And with starting to tow trailers, I need every bit I can get (chasing small trailers turning in reverse is a bit of a pain)... I can do it how it just fine, but I'd rather make it easier on myself... And I've never greased mine and they are dead silent...

mine has a chrome capon top of a nylon cap... I'll try to remove them and see what's underneath... Thanks!

94 se, 4x4, auto, with factory 31's... How the heck do you turn the steering stops? I can get the lock nuts lose to where I can just spin them with my fingers... But I can't turn the steering stops themselves... What am I supposed to use to turn them and how? The chrome caps are not sitting square on top of the nylon tips... The only place I see to grab them is the nylon tips... But they are soft and I'm going to rip them off if I keep trying... I had half a can of liquid wrench when I started... I've sprayed them and let them soak for a while... So I'm at a loss as to what to do... Any ideas, experience, kmowledge, pictures, anything will be helpful...

I don't have squirrels in my pathfinder... I have tortoises... all 6 of them are slow but powerful... Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Only thing worse than mice is rats... Never had rats or mice in my pathfinder... Had squirrels try to make a nest on my engine though... Had to replace my ignition system after they chewed it all up... And cleaning the nuts they left around the spark plugs was a total pain in the butt...

My pathfinder (I call her Anna Ruby) Proportional brake controller Shock/spring/air helper Hookup for the air helpers Hands free mic USB ports and rear control switch Rear power center 7 pin connector Cb radio Current mileage Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've been slacking and not posting on here... I've been too busy to get pictures and update on mine... I've done a lot the past two weeks though... I'll try to get photos up today... Here's the list of my recent accomplishments on my 94 SE... Rancho 5000 series shocks on all 4 corners Moog cargo control springs in the rear Air-Lift rear helper springs in the rear New cb radio Usb power port installed in the center console Mic for my Bluetooth stereo (hands free talking) mounted next to the map lights 7 pin rv style trailer connector and proportional trailer brake controller LED dome lights Rear power center in the driver side wall of the cargo area. It has in it a 12v outlet, 2 USB ports, and a volt meter I also put in a toggle switch for the rear power center so I can leave it off when not needed Headlight relay harness Waiting to do next is Rough country steering stabilizer Energy suspension strut rod bushings Front tires/alignment Again, I'll try to post some photos today... It's so beautiful out...

Disregard that last post... Found a kit on Amazon for $40 that will do it all for me... All I would have to do is plug in a few plugs, connect a few ground wires, and hook a wire to the positive side of the battery...

Can you give me info or links on that headlight relay harness mod... I'd like better headlight power...

Check your intake tubing as well... Make sure there are no leaks... I had a similar issue where my engine would lose all power at certain points of throttle... Cleaned the throttle body, maf, and then changed a few sensors... It was better but still not yet right... So I swapped out my intake hoses because the original ones were starting to crack... Now it runs like a new pathfinder with having 235k on it... Mine is a 94 se auto...