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Lift Springs and Strut Spacers


97Pathfinderman
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Hey guys I have the 1.5 inch strut spacers on the front of my 97 Pathy and the 2 inch spacers on the back. It sits with a pretty noticeable rake and I want it to sit level. I purchased the 2 inch lift coils from 4x4parts.com without researching. I am hearing that the combo will not work and my cv axles will lock up. Would it be a better idea to take my spacers off and just put the springs on? I really need some advise on this because all I want is for the damn thing to sit level. :headwall: I also don't want to do a sfd right now because I am in college and don't have the time to build/enough money to buy a kit. I would really appreciate your input.

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When you say "to sits with a noticeable rake" I assume you mean that the front is lower than the rear. To see how much increase in front height you need, measure the distance from the top of the tire to the wheel arch. Then, place a floor jack under the front crossmember and lift until the body appears level. Re-measure the distance from the top of the tire to the wheel arch.

 

Regarding locking up your CV axles, you have 1.5" spacers on front now, right? If so, raise the floor jack so that both front wheels are off the ground and spin your wheels by hand.

 

If you notice binding while spinning the wheels, then it doesn't matter whether you install the new springs or not, because the length of the strut determines how much total suspension travel is permitted, not the spring or the spacers. If you have binding, your CV axles are at risk of breaking if you drive off-road. This is due to the spacers being too thick and causing the front suspension to drop lower than it was designed.

 

If you do NOT notice binding while rotating the wheels, then installing the new springs will have no effect on the reliability of your CV axles, other than increasing the CV boot wear.

 

You will probably need to experiment with the combination of spacers and springs that levels your suspension. I suspect that 2" springs plus 1.5" spacers will result in the front being too high.

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When you say "to sits with a noticeable rake" I assume you mean that the front is lower than the rear. To see how much increase in front height you need, measure the distance from the top of the tire to the wheel arch. Then, place a floor jack under the front crossmember and lift until the body appears level. Re-measure the distance from the top of the tire to the wheel arch.

 

Regarding locking up your CV axles, you have 1.5" spacers on front now, right? If so, raise the floor jack so that both front wheels are off the ground and spin your wheels by hand.

 

If you notice binding while spinning the wheels, then it doesn't matter whether you install the new springs or not, because the length of the strut determines how much total suspension travel is permitted, not the spring or the spacers. If you have binding, your CV axles are at risk of breaking if you drive off-road. This is due to the spacers being too thick and causing the front suspension to drop lower than it was designed.

 

If you do NOT notice binding while rotating the wheels, then installing the new springs will have no effect on the reliability of your CV axles, other than increasing the CV boot wear.

 

You will probably need to experiment with the combination of spacers and springs that levels your suspension. I suspect that 2" springs plus 1.5" spacers will result in the front being too high.

 

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When you say "to sits with a noticeable rake" I assume you mean that the front is lower than the rear. To see how much increase in front height you need, measure the distance from the top of the tire to the wheel arch. Then, place a floor jack under the front crossmember and lift until the body appears level. Re-measure the distance from the top of the tire to the wheel arch.

 

Regarding locking up your CV axles, you have 1.5" spacers on front now, right? If so, raise the floor jack so that both front wheels are off the ground and spin your wheels by hand.

 

If you notice binding while spinning the wheels, then it doesn't matter whether you install the new springs or not, because the length of the strut determines how much total suspension travel is permitted, not the spring or the spacers. If you have binding, your CV axles are at risk of breaking if you drive off-road. This is due to the spacers being too thick and causing the front suspension to drop lower than it was designed.

 

If you do NOT notice binding while rotating the wheels, then installing the new springs will have no effect on the reliability of your CV axles, other than increasing the CV boot wear.

 

You will probably need to experiment with the combination of spacers and springs that levels your suspension. I suspect that 2" springs plus 1.5" spacers will result in the front being too high.

Ok I actually measured the front the way you said and it is about 2.5 to 3 inches higher in the back so i think the springs would make it look a whole lot better. If I jack it up all the way up off the ground the wheels spin relatively freely. They make a little clicking noise but it doesn't hinder with the spinning. I probably sound dumb about this but I have always dealt with straight axles and this is my first pathfinder. Do you know why there would be this much of a difference in the height of the front vs the back? I'm guessing the stock springs are just wore out.

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Did you buy the Pathfinder with the spacers installed already or did you have them put in after you bought it? If you put the spacers in later, why did you install them? Was the truck not sitting level? Has the suspension changed since the first day you put them in?

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Did you buy the Pathfinder with the spacers installed already or did you have them put in after you bought it? If you put the spacers in later, why did you install them? Was the truck not sitting level? Has the suspension changed since the first day you put them in?

I put them on after I bought it expecting it to lift the truck 2 inches like it advertised. It lifted the rear the right amount but it barely lifted the front at all. I don't mind it being a little taller in the back but it is very noticeable right now. I have not changed my suspension in any way since I put the spacers in.

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I put them on after I bought it expecting it to lift the truck 2 inches like it advertised. It lifted the rear the right amount but it barely lifted the front at all. I don't mind it being a little taller in the back but it is very noticeable right now. I have not changed my suspension in any way since I put the spacers in.

I don't see how it's possible for a spacer lift like that not to lift the truck precisely the amount specified. You didn't install replacement rear coil springs around the same time, did you?

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If you go any more than 1.5" at the front you'll "grenade" your cv joints when off road. The max angle of the cv axle at full "droop" should be no more than 30 degrees, this is the max angle Nissan specifies. If you want more than 1.5" up front you'll have to do a sfd.

 

Personally, I don't mind a slight rake as it give me better visibility over the hood on rocks. It's not so important to me now as I fitted a front camera! :laugh: :laugh:

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I imagine it should , in that pic the struts and shocks were new also . GR2's and Bilsteins .

I'm sure your right. I'm gonna use the struts that are on there now because they are still in good shape and I don't think it will effect the height of the lift. How hard was it installing the coils? It seems to be a pretty straight forward job.

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I had a friend with a full shop install my coils , he said the fronts are tough . They're going to completely change your ride and handling , stiff and little if any body roll . I like it .

I really don't mind any of that I am just looking for enough clearance to fit 32's. Yours is what i want mine to look like by the way

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Is it possible that the rear springs have been replaced but not the fronts? That would explain the massive difference in height. I'm curious if just swapping the spacers for the lift coils would level it. 2" lift vs worn factory springs could easily explain a 3" or so difference between front and rear.

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Is it possible that the rear springs have been replaced but not the fronts? That would explain the massive difference in height. I'm curious if just swapping the spacers for the lift coils would level it. 2" lift vs worn factory springs could easily explain a 3" or so difference between front and rear.

Ive wondered the same thing. I have not replaced the rear springs but someone could have in the past.

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Part of the reason I asked is that I'm experiencing the same thing on my QX4. After installing the OME medium rate springs (which I think are specified at .5" of lift), there's a significant rake with no other changes. I've already received new front springs to install as well, just need to find the time to pull the strut assemblies and pay somebody to swap them for me. Last time I tried with a set of basic home use coil spring compressors I wasted several hours before giving it up and taking it to a shop.

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97Pathfinderman: see if there are any tags or labels on the rear springs. Also, count the number of wraps/coils and report back. A few of us can compare numbers to see if they're aftermarket. You can also measure the thickness of the coil.

 

Fastpakr: the thing about the basic coil spring compressors is that you have to get the hooks as far apart as possible on the spring. I've not had any problem using them on OME MDs (a few times) or HDs. The HDs were a little tricky because I had to disassemble the compressors (basically just unscrew one of the hooks) slide it in near the coil ends, use a mallet to tap them over a little, and then thread the bolts. I was able to get them opposite of eachother, too, basically getting every coil except the ends, of course. Took more effort than MDs, but was doable.

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As I recall, they worked fine for disassembling the set so I could remove the old strut. On reassembly I just couldn't get them compressed enough to get the bearing into position and bolted in. I may try again this time just to avoid waiting on a shop to do the work. Not optimistic though.

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If there were lift springs installed in the rear before 97Pathfindeman bought the truck , and 2" spacers were added to those after buying it , wouldn't there have been panhard issues after doing so ?

Edited by Beatup96
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It's all about getting the clamp hooks far enough apart. It's also wise to make sure the threads are properly greased. On addition to the normal safety precautions, I also wrap the coil with a wet bath towel...it helps stabilize it in my garage floor, and acts as a dampener should something go wrong.

 

I just have difficulty believing that rental spring compressors can't handle the springs, to be honest, and for a number of reasons. I say give it another try.

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If there were lift springs installed in the rear before 97Pathfindeman bought the truck , and 2" spacers were added to those after buying it , wouldn't there have been panhard issues after doing so ?

Probably not issues, per se, but probably a noticeable gap between the theoretical pivot point height on the axle (bottom of the drivers side spring perch) and the real pivot point on the panhard bar mount. If that gap is greater than 2", then I'd suspect he has lift springs.

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97Pathfinderman: see if there are any tags or labels on the rear springs. Also, count the number of wraps/coils and report back. A few of us can compare numbers to see if they're aftermarket. You can also measure the thickness of the coil.

 

Fastpakr: the thing about the basic coil spring compressors is that you have to get the hooks as far apart as possible on the spring. I've not had any problem using them on OME MDs (a few times) or HDs. The HDs were a little tricky because I had to disassemble the compressors (basically just unscrew one of the hooks) slide it in near the coil ends, use a mallet to tap them over a little, and then thread the bolts. I was able to get them opposite of eachother, too, basically getting every coil except the ends, of course. Took more effort than MDs, but was doable.

I'll count the coils when I get a chance and get back with that. The two inch coils I have now are a lot thinker and I think have coils. I actually remeasured the difference in hight today and the back is between an inch and a half and two inches taller than the front. It is not 3 inches different, I must have measured it wrong but I think if I mill down the front spacers that I have now and add the 2 inch coils then it will sit better. Even if it is a little taller in the front than the back I won't mind it. I would rather have it a little taller in the from than back anyways.

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That's sounds about normal, but where are you measuring from? The FSM has the specs and where to measure from, so you should be able to gauge the stock take from those numbers. But, of course, you're looking for things to sit level.

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