Lift Springs and Strut Spacers

[97Pathfinderman]

That's sounds about normal, but where are you measuring from? The FSM has the specs and where to measure from, so you should be able to gauge the stock take from those numbers. But, of course, you're looking for things to sit level.

It may be about normal but the spacer kit I purchased said that it would lift my truck two inches front and back and it lifted the front way less than it lifted the back. I am measuring from the top of the tire to the bottom of the fender flair. There was not a noticeable rake on it when it was stock and this really blows my mind. I honestly want to rip the damn IFS out and sas it but if I can just get it to sit level without a lot of trouble then I will be happy. The reason why I am making a big deal about this is because it looks like crap with the rake.

[hawairish]

Well, let's take a few steps back then...

 

First, the maximum possible delta in height between the front and rear before and after spacer installation is .5"...and that assumes that the 1.5" strut spacers doesn't really net 2" of lift. It's only 1.5" tall because of the angle of the strut; similar to a right triangle where the hypotenuse is the strut, you wouldn't need 2" spacer to lift the front 2".

 

Second, if you were standing several feet from the side of the vehicle and comparing the rake visually, but now with less reference between the tire and fender lip, do you think you could honestly tell that it's .5" more off? It would be difficult, unless you're a Masonic eagle.

 

I've run several levels of spacers and SFDs, so I'm very familiar of the breakdown and installation of the components.

 

That said, let's talk about the installation, and a very common mistake made when re-assembling the struts. The upper spring perch has a notch on the perimeter of it, and possibly a "W" stamped on the opposite side of the notch. "W" is for wheel, and that should face outward of the vehicle, towards the wheel. The notched side faces inward towards the engine. If those have been rotated, the spring will not sit at the correct angle, effectively lowering the front of the truck. Can you confirm this isn't the case?

 

Pictures of the front and rear setup would also be useful in case we're missing something else.

[97Pathfinderman]

Well, let's take a few steps back then...

 

First, the maximum possible delta in height between the front and rear before and after spacer installation is .5"...and that assumes that the 1.5" strut spacers doesn't really net 2" of lift. It's only 1.5" tall because of the angle of the strut; similar to a right triangle where the hypotenuse is the strut, you wouldn't need 2" spacer to lift the front 2".

 

Second, if you were standing several feet from the side of the vehicle and comparing the rake visually, but now with less reference between the tire and fender lip, do you think you could honestly tell that it's .5" more off? It would be difficult, unless you're a Masonic eagle.

 

I've run several levels of spacers and SFDs, so I'm very familiar of the breakdown and installation of the components.

 

That said, let's talk about the installation, and a very common mistake made when re-assembling the struts. The upper spring perch has a notch on the perimeter of it, and possibly a "W" stamped on the opposite side of the notch. "W" is for wheel, and that should face outward of the vehicle, towards the wheel. The notched side faces inward towards the engine. If those have been rotated, the spring will not sit at the correct angle, effectively lowering the front of the truck. Can you confirm this isn't the case?

 

Pictures of the front and rear setup would also be useful in case we're missing something else.

The front is definitely more than one inch lower than this back and it is noticeably different. I may have the spring perch rotated the wrong way I am not sure because we rotated it to get the longer bolts in for the spacer and I don't know if we put in the right position when we reinstalled it. Would this really cause that much of a difference? I will try to get some pictures uploaded as soon as i can. My truck is parked a couple of miles from my dorm so I can't get to in now.

[hawairish]

The front is definitely more than one inch lower than this back and it is noticeably different. I may have the spring perch rotated the wrong way I am not sure because we rotated it to get the longer bolts in for the spacer and I don't know if we put in the right position when we reinstalled it. Would this really cause that much of a difference? I will try to get some pictures uploaded as soon as i can. My truck is parked a couple of miles from my dorm so I can't get to in now.

 

Yes, it could make that much difference. When the upper perch is aligned with the lower perch, the axis of the spring is parallel (or near parallel) to the strut shaft, and load is distributed evenly to the spring along the strut shaft. If rotated, the spring tilts relative to the shaft, and load is no longer distributed evenly to the spring, and is also being applied at an angle.

 

We should also not eliminate the rear from the discussion, though. Have you jumped on the rear of the truck or driven it around to relax the rear springs? It's not abnormal for them to recoup some height when they're removed, but they settle soon after. Did everything else seem to seat properly when re-installing things there?

 

One more thing, going back to another point you mentioned...running the AC coils and the strut spacer will not be good. I wouldn't go much beyond 2" of total lift up front without an SFD. That slight ticking that you noticed that didn't feel too restrictive...well, that is likely still binding. Did you try it with the wheel turned by chance? The tick might be more pronounced.

[97Pathfinderman]

 

Yes, it could make that much difference. When the upper perch is aligned with the lower perch, the axis of the spring is parallel (or near parallel) to the strut shaft, and load is distributed evenly to the spring along the strut shaft. If rotated, the spring tilts relative to the shaft, and load is no longer distributed evenly to the spring, and is also being applied at an angle.

 

We should also not eliminate the rear from the discussion, though. Have you jumped on the rear of the truck or driven it around to relax the rear springs? It's not abnormal for them to recoup some height when they're removed, but they settle soon after. Did everything else seem to seat properly when re-installing things there?

 

One more thing, going back to another point you mentioned...running the AC coils and the strut spacer will not be good. I wouldn't go much beyond 2" of total lift up front without an SFD. That slight ticking that you noticed that didn't feel too restrictive...well, that is likely still binding. Did you try it with the wheel turned by chance? The tick might be more pronounced.

I will definitely look at the upper perches and see if I have them turned wrong. Everything in the rear is good because the lift has been on about 6 months and they have been fine. About the coils, would it be safe if I milled down my existing strut spacers from 1.5 inches to 1 inch then put the 2 inch coils on? I already have the coils and I cannot send them back so it would be a huge waste of money if I cannot use them.

[hawairish]

Milling the spacers wouldn't be a problem, but at 3" of lift, you'll be pushing the limits on the CVs.

 

The thing about having that much lift is not necessarily putting the CVs at angles they can't operate at (after all, the relationship between the CV and LCA is unchanged), but instead having the CV work a lot harder while at a weaker angle. It's working harder because it has to oscillate more to do its main function: keep constant velocity. You can also imagine a CV like a ratchet with some swivel joints and extenders...what's going to best deliver torque: everything being straight, or everything having angles on it?

 

Your better bet would be to just use the springs, keep the spacers, and save up for an SFD. I may be able to help you with the latter part soon.

 

[97Pathfinderman]

Milling the spacers wouldn't be a problem, but at 3" of lift, you'll be pushing the limits on the CVs.

 

The thing about having that much lift is not necessarily putting the CVs at angles they can't operate at (after all, the relationship between the CV and LCA is unchanged), but instead having the CV work a lot harder while at a weaker angle. It's working harder because it has to oscillate more to do its main function: keep constant velocity. You can also imagine a CV like a ratchet with some swivel joints and extenders...what's going to best deliver torque: everything being straight, or everything having angles on it?

 

Your better bet would be to just use the springs, keep the spacers, and save up for an SFD. I may be able to help you with the latter part soon.

 

Ok thank you so much for your help. I think what I will do is take the spacers off and put the springs on and make sure that the perch is aligned the right way. hopefully this will give me the right amount of lift.