my pathfinder is having some issues - o2 sensors, cluster.

[lhanse13]

hey everyone, really glad to have found this resource for my pathfinder. I'm going to be giving my girlfriend my pathfinder but i wanted to fix a few things before hand. First is the instrument cluster.. It only works sometimes, you have to turn the key on and off numerous times before it starts working. Now i was planning to get a new used cluster off ebay but i read that might not be the problem. I'm a college student and pretty tight on money and would hate to spend $75 dollars for a new cluster and it not work. My pathfinder has the electronic/digital odometer and i've noticed that some of the clusters on ebay are analog. The fuel gauge rarely works which sucks and the speedometer isn't accurate, i feel as this is something i really need to fix.

 

ANother issue is the o2 sensors seem to be bad. The car is getting pretty bad gas mileage. Would the gas mileage improve if i just unplugged the o2 sensors for now? I'm located in Wyoming where we dont have emissions so a CEL wouldn't be a problem, it would just be nice to have some better gas mileage.

 

Thank you for the information, it means a lot.

[Slartibartfast]

One thing you might try is removing your cluster and cleaning/tightening the screws at the back--I've heard of this reviving gauges where the electrical connections have gotten lousy over time, maybe you'll get lucky with yours. The key thing makes me think it may be a wiring or ignition switch issue rather than an issue with the dash. Do the power windows/radio go out when the dash isn't working?

 

Bad mileage can come from a number of things. IIRC unhooking the O2 sensors would make it run a little rich, but it might be an improvement if the sensors are in fact buggered. If you have/know someone with a scan tool you might be able to have a look at fuel trims or sensor data to see if the oxygen sensors are in fact the problem. I would also have a look for vacuum leaks (particularly the connection to the fuel pressure regulator) and the coolant temperature sensor.

Hopefully someone with an R50 can come in with more specific advice.

 

Also, you can download the service manual here: Some of it's more technical than you need, but it's got troubleshooting procedures that can be helpful. I'd start with the EF&EC section for the fuel issue and maybe the EL section for the cluster.

Edited April 15, 2015 by Slartibartfast

[R3DN1CK]

I've got intermittent Fuel gauge and a really laggy/inop Speedo... I didn't find this out until I put cash in the hand of the man who sold it to me and I drove away. I believe R50's are possessed by demon spirits.

Edited April 15, 2015 by R3DN1CK

[hawairish]

Digital odometer? Haven't seen that. Got a pic or eBay link? This is for a 97 model?

 

What exactly isn't working on the gauge cluster that requires multiple on/off cycles? Lights, gauge activity?

 

The fuel gauge level issue may not be the cluster. You'd need to check the resistance or voltage on the signal (whichever is specified in the FSM's diagnostic step) to determine where the source of the problem is.

 

What about the speedometer readout is inaccurate? Is it just slow to change (like says you're going 15mph but you're stopped)? How are you measuring inaccuracy?

 

Another note about buying a used cluster is that the mileage is stored in the cluster, not the ECM. If you can find with one with a reasonably close amount of miles, you're better off...if you need to replace it at all. Something to be careful about, since altering an odometer can really complicate registering or reselling your vehicle, and may be illegal in some cases.

 

And swapping in an analog cluster shouldn't be a problem, either. You'll just want to compare the wiring pigtails (should be the same), the overall shape, and pull it from a similar vehicle (year, drivetrain, braking systems, etc.) so that you've got the bulbs you need.

 

In my case on a 1998 Frontier, some cluster backlights would not come on (I'd have to hit the top of the dash to get them on), the speedometer needle would occasionally drop to 0 while driving, and the fuel gauge wouldn't drop below 1/8 (and it'd basically mean "you're out of gas" at that point, despite never hitting the needle stop). That cluster had a film circuit board (flimsy, sheet-like, not a typical PCB board) that was showing tiny cracks on the contacts that led to the wiring pigtails. I replaced the film and it solved the problem with the lights. The speedometer issue was because of a bad speedo sensor signal to the ECM, which the ECM relays to the cluster (the ECM was throwing a DTC code for the inconsistent signal from the sensor). The fuel gauge needle remained unresolved (I never tested it, just got used to filling up before 1/8).

 

 

Edited April 15, 2015 by hawairish

[lhanse13]

hey sorry, so i found out i have a 1998. Will a 2001 cluster fit my car? or is it only 1998 and 1999? i found out that a 97 cluster will not work. Thanks!

[fixinto]

Good advise up top in a comment above this about pulling the cluster and cleaning it and tightening stuff up. Just use 90 percent alcohol and a q-tip and clean the contacts. where it plugs in. My dash cluster is the non-digital type and my tachometer went nutso and pegged past red line while i was idling, i bumped the dash a couple of times and could tell it had an effect on the tach so i pulled the cluster cleaned the contacts for the plugs and reflowed the stepper motors and electronics for the needles. That was over two years ago now and it still works like a champ. If you are not getting a CEL for O2 faults or rich / lean condition i wouldnt jack with the O2. usually if they are malfunctioning you will get some kind of check engine light. and if you have a code for bank1 or 2 sensor 2 they have nothing to do with fuel trims so no biggy. If you have a knock sensor ninja code that does not throw a light thats pretty much the norm for the mid to late 90's R50 and probably before that too. pretty much all i have right now.

 

 

Pat

[Rebelord]

You can only swap clusters that have the same plugs that connect to it. And you can't use a 96/97 that has the mechanical odometer.

There are companies that repair them if they require more than you can do. But usually cheaper to find one in the pull yard and try it. If it works. It's either pay the dealer to flash correct mileage. Which would require the original for verification of miles. Or you can go to your dmv and file a odometer adjustment. Basically a permanent record of new miles on odometer on the title. Gives validation for it. Otherwise if you ever try to sell it, it will be flagged for fraud.

 

Sent from fat fingers on S6