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My first R50


R3DN1CK
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My old WD21 is tired, just bought 96 R50 to replace it. It's in good overall condition, but it did try to kill me last night on my ride home at freeway speeds. Apparently my luck of the draw needs new rear links... not a good way to start this WD21 to R50 transition. So needless to say, my tire budget is now a rear link replacement budget. I've seen a lot of different setups on the forum and read about sfd, spacers, yadda yadda yadda... my question is What does it take to run 32x11.50r15 tires?

 

Current R50 is missing an OE 6spoke and all the tires are shot. So I need a wheel (probably buy 2) and 5 tires anyway... WD21 has brand new 32x11.50r15 tires on legos. I'm open to buying aftermarket wheels as I already need to buy 2 anyway. Is there a magic 15" wheel size that will allow me to run the 32's? Trying to do this on a budget as I didn't expect to drop tire money on links.

 

Thanks.

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I had 31"s on stock suspension , now 32"s with 2" coils all around and a 1" spacer in front .

I'm thinking 2" lift all around for 32"s , spacers or coils .

 

I used these wheels...

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/Rock-Crawler-Series-97-15x8-with-6-on-5-5-Bolt-Pattern-Black.aspx?t_c=11&t_s=209&t_pt=100021&t_pn=PCW97-5884

 

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Thank you Beatup96. I really want some walker evans 501 machine face with black lip but they are on backorder til end of may.

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Welcome to the R50 world! Check out eBay for the trailing arms, I just installed a full set that I bought on there, they seem to be good quality and were only $180 shipped! The seller is TrueBlue auto parts. Also picked up all new oem hardware for around $50 from an online Nissan parts dealer that I'll never deal with again, but others are about the same price. As for fitting 32's, 96-99.0 se's can fit 31's stock as long as the springs aren't shot, I'd think a 2" lift with 3.75" or so backspace would do the trick. I'm running the same 31's as bushnut but on stock se 6 spokes, added 1.5" lift (fluerys) cause my springs are sagged out, and 1" wheel spacers just to improve the stance.

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Welcome to the R50 world! Check out eBay for the trailing arms, I just installed a full set that I bought on there, they seem to be good quality and were only $180 shipped! The seller is TrueBlue auto parts. Also picked up all new oem hardware for around $50 from an online Nissan parts dealer that I'll never deal with again, but others are about the same price. As for fitting 32's, 96-99.0 se's can fit 31's stock as long as the springs aren't shot, I'd think a 2" lift with 3.75" or so backspace would do the trick. I'm running the same 31's as bushnut but on stock se 6 spokes, added 1.5" lift (fluerys) cause my springs are sagged out, and 1" wheel spacers just to improve the stance.

 

Thanks for the heads up, I just ordered those rear links from ebay via TrueBlue... patiently waiting.

 

What's up with the hardware, is there an issue with the non California ones?

 

What's the "fluerys" 1.5 lift? Is that the molded spacer?

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I'm running LEGOS on my R50 with 31s, I've got 1.5in wheel spacers and lift springs and spacers.

P1070096_zpsd1e72f09.jpg

 

Just stole me first 32 mounted on Legos and installed on left rear, fits good with stock springs. Used bottle jack to lift the axle tube as high as it would go stuffing it as hard as I could without actually wheeling it. Rear seems to be fine. Will still get the lift spacers or springs though. The fronts going to be fun, but I already had front wheel spacers on the WD21, so I'll probably jack those too and run these Legos.

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What's the "fluerys" 1.5 lift? Is that the molded spacer?

Fleury's spacers are synthetic spacers, unsure the material but it will never rust or break. They sort of are like giant hockey pucks that add length to your overall spring/ strut. Many people on here including myself are running them with great success.

 

When you pick 15" wheels, keep in mind you will need to do one of two things:

1- you can guy a 5mm spacer to clear the brake caliper, in which case you will need to buy rear studs and replace the front ones as the rear ones are longer.

 

Or

 

2-shave your calipers with an angle grinder to make them fit. It won't take much. But there will be just enough room to slide a piece of paper between the caliper and the rim. This is why I did both. Shaved at first, then got spacers anyway and new longer studs.

 

I find there are more options for 15" tires at better prices. I personally went with 33x12.5R15 and think this is the perfect size.

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On 4/5/2015 at 10:13 PM, R3DN1CK said:

 

What's up with the hardware, is there an issue with the non California ones?

 

Nissan over-complicated things on these bolts. For whatever reason, they lists all sorts of different part numbers for bolts in different locations (front/rear) of the upper and lower links. There was no difference whatsoever between what I removed...it's clearly just two different bolts.

 

Here's what you need*:

 

4x 55080-0W00B bolts

4x 54368-0W02A bolts

8x 08918-6441A nuts

 

*Just buy 8 of the cheaper expensive bolts (54368 55080) (Edited: crossed up my recommendation).   Edit 12/9/18: So, as of today, the 55080-0W00B bolts have reached about $5.75/ea, over 100% increase since 2015 when I last bought some.  The 54368-0W02A bolts are now about $1.90/ea (were $1.60), but have that tip that may need to be cut off.  At that rate, I'd probably settle for the 8x the latter.

 

They are the same hardness, size, and thread pitch...and essentially length and thread length. The long bolt has a break-away tip (3rd bolt) that's broken at the factory after installation (4th bolt).

 

BTW, I think I have the part numbers transposed in the pic...it doesn't coincide with how I installed them, the parts diagrams, or the bolts they replaced. But again, doesn't really matter.

 

IMG-2926.jpg

 

My WTF moment was on the upper link front by the gas tank. Nissan indicates using the "long" bolt pointing towards the outside of the vehicle (this is also how it was removed). Well, the break-away tip interferes with the sway bar link mount, preventing re-installation of the mount. There was no way I was backing that bolt out to flip it...it was a b**** to install because the fuel tank doesn't leave much room for tools, and it was already torqued. I had to Dremel the tip off. I'd recommended doing the same before installing the bolt, or attempting to flip the bolt being mindful of working space by the tank. The shorter bolt wouldn't have made a difference. Heads-up.

 

IMG-2934.jpg

Edited by hawairish
Image fix, advice correction
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Fleury's spacers are synthetic spacers, unsure the material but it will never rust or break. They sort of are like giant hockey pucks that add length to your overall spring/ strut. Many people on here including myself are running them with great success.

 

When you pick 15" wheels, keep in mind you will need to do one of two things:

1- you can guy a 5mm spacer to clear the brake caliper, in which case you will need to buy rear studs and replace the front ones as the rear ones are longer.

 

Or

 

2-shave your calipers with an angle grinder to make them fit. It won't take much. But there will be just enough room to slide a piece of paper between the caliper and the rim. This is why I did both. Shaved at first, then got spacers anyway and new longer studs.

 

I find there are more options for 15" tires at better prices. I personally went with 33x12.5R15 and think this is the perfect size.

 

I'm confused on the having to shave the calipers... mine came with 15" rims not 16" rims.

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Hawairish, thanks for the heads up. Trust me, Nissan has a lot of random stuff going on... I'm a parts manager. I can't get a pcv hose for 2005 Titan, a Hazard flasher for a 97 Froniter, but today (thankfully) I could still order floormats, car cover and cargo net from the accy book? This looks like more fun than I'm looking forward to, but it should be worth it when it's done.

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I'm confused on the having to shave the calipers... mine came with 15" rims not 16" rims.

I guess it depends on model year. Mine had 16" from the factory. Mine is a 99.5 post facelift. I guess those had bigger calipers than previous models.

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I guess it depends on model year. Mine had 16" from the factory. Mine is a 99.5 post facelift. I guess those had bigger calipers than previous models.

 

4 caliper splits on production date... could be as simple as manufacturer change over. Here's the splits.

 

____

10/95-04/97 VG33E

____

07/97-12/98 VG333

____

07/02-XX/XX VQ35DE

01/00-05/00 VQ35DE

07/01-07/02 VQ35DE + VG33E

05/00-07/01 VQ35DE + VG33E

12/98-01/00 VG33E

____

04/97-07/97

 

 

4 wheel splits on produciton date/trim. Here's the splits.

 

STEEL

10/95-12/98 XE 15X6.5 SILVER

____

10/95-12/98 SE 15X6.5 SILVER

10/95-12/98 XE

____

10/95-07/96 SE 15X7 CHROME

____

12/98-09/99 XE 16X7 SILVER

09/99-01/00

 

ALLOY

10/95-12/98 15X6.5 MULTISPOKE, WIRE WHEEL LOOKING

_____

12/98-XX/XX 16X7 5 SPOKE WITH RIBBED LIP

_____

10/95-12/98 15X7 FAT 6-SPOKE

_____

12/98-XX/XX 16X7 FUNKY DOUBLE TRIABLE QX4 LIKE

 

So it looks like the wheels from early production are 15" and the 99+ are 16".

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FWIW my '96 came with 15" wheels , I changed out my calipers with new Cardone's from Rockauto and had no problems fitting Pro Comp steel wheels over the new calipers .

 

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Thanks for the compliment, but although it doesn't look too bad, pics make it look better! Lol! Most of your questions have been answered. Pre-facelift (96-99.0) r50's come stock with 15's, post-facelift (99.5-04) are 16 or 17 with bigger brakes.

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Also, there is a kyb direct website, seem to have best prices an $0.99 shipping! Bought from them within the last few months for my 01 and have nothing bad to say. Previous kyb's lasted over 70k.

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I tried to call Bilstein to see if my connection still worked there, he doesn't. Bummer. He's the one who helped me get the prototype remote reserviors on my WD21.... guy on the phone basically said they don't have a listing for it so he hung up. Really sucks because Bilstein is a street over from our dealership.

 

I looked into the KYB's and the OE knock offs... they are all geared for street. Rancho claims to be off-road capabale shocks. I'll put them to the test and if they suck, I'll cross that bridge. No more cool electronic suspension.

 

So, I pulled the trigger, after asking 1,000,001 questions to the 4x4parts.com guys... I bought the upgraded Rancho kit!

 

http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981319-pathfinder-suspension-package.html

 

I'll have to let ya'll know if it sucks or rocks after I get it. They said it shouldn't have any issues.

 

Now I need to sell the WD21 or part it out to help pay for this kit!!!!

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What is for sale on the WD21

Everything... to a point. It runs and drives currently. So important things that make it run will have to wait, unless there's cash in hand. But everything non drivetrain at the moment is up for sale. Name it and make an offer.

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Suspension any after market? Passenger side are vent

 

Front

AC upper arms, new ball joints and bushings. New lower ball joints. Prototype Bilstein remote reservoir shocks.

 

Rear

Upgraded Nismo lower bushings, Bilstein 7100 rear shocks

 

Bring your pathfinder, some tools and some cash. Need this to be a roller still, gonna have to trade me for your stock stuff.

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